Stringers

Agreed, that is looking awesome.  You must be reeling in job satisfaction!

The work continues big push taking advantage of some slow time at work. Working on the fuel tank install very tight but I think it will fit . Wife and I finished up the side panels and gunnel wraps. If I can stick with it I should have the drive train back in by the weekend. I pulled the aluminum rub rails out of the barn only to find I don't have all the pieces .Looks like the rear corners are missing. I will try to find pics of what its supposed to look like.

At 65 and moderately overweight I will need something to get back in . The ladder that was mounted on the back I think was original one of the legs is bent so it will have to be replaced but it still only goes to the bottom of the transum .I don't see how that will be much help . I think it will take away from the lines of the boat even more than the platform. I just spent 2 years grinding out and filling 10,000 cracks in the gelcoat . The last thing I want to do is to hang a ladder off the side and watch it scratch. If anybody has a mid 60's Mustang with a platform can you measure the location of the brackets from the bottom of the hull and distance to the sides . This boat has never seen water since I got it . I have no idea where the water line was or will be now.   

Riley wrote:   Whats that thing on the back of your Tique?

Back in the days when men were men and we barefooted with cutoffs and a ski belt. the weak used over the gunnel ladders.

The benefit of a swim platform is tremendous for water sports. I couldn’t do without mine as I ski 3-4 days per week from March to November. Some will say keep it original. I say keep it usable. I had a friend with an old Hydro Dyne outboard. I had to it my slalom ski on in the boat and flip over the gunwale to enter the lake. Unnecessary.

Work has finally started again on the 67 . Thanks to all the time off between wooflew and holidays it has really started to move forward. Trying to get it done before the SJRR in march. If progress continues I just might make it.

Looks to me like the best way to do it would be to make the bottom plate with tapped holes in it to match the pattern of the top part. Then use S/S Heli coils or inserts. Then affix the bottom plate to the floor or pan. The top plate could then be secured with knobs with a stud coming out of them. With this setup you would not have these studs sticking up from the floor when the seat is removed. Stepping on them would not be fun.

I'm sure you will come up with something. Originally Correct Craft used an aluminum extrusion that allowed a bolt to come up from the bottom and yet the bolt head was not poking into the pan. Rather than staking the bolt they used a nut much like a nylon insert lock nut and from the top placed that nut to hold the bolt tight. Then the seat frame was drilled so that it piloted on top of that lock nut with the rest of the bolt length protruding through the seat frame so the chrome hold down was easy to attach- a simple and easy to use solution requiring no tools to remove a seat.

One more congratulations on the fine seat work. Very classy look.

Staking bolt heads to prevent loosening:

Better view. Pretty simple.

Not the best photo - I was taking a picture of the windshield and happened to get the brackets in the background. They are two strips of aluminum mitered on each side. They have holes at each end and secure to the floor with four self-tapping screws. The plastic knobs are screwed onto studs. My upper seat brackets are slotted to allow sliding forward/backward a bit before being tightened down. The passenger seat can be mounted facing forward or backward.

No all I have is the upper seat base as shown in the picture. If anybody has a picture of the lowed base I would love to see that so I can fabricate the parts.