Stringers

Mike,

Nautiquehunter wrote: I made a play on that 100.00 12x15 prop . I figure If it doesn't work out I can always resell it. Carb wedge comes today prop tomorrow should have some answers by the weekend. What is a good lapping compound I have never lapped a prop before maybe I just got lucky?

Nautiquehunter wrote:   Its like having a canoe with a big engine. Any weight shift will tip the boat to the side and when you turn at speed the gunnel is pretty close to the water. It seams to ride nose up going straight .

Sounds about normal for a Mustang from back then   [/QUOTE]

Not in my experience - once they get going they ride flat. Marshall's is the only one I have seen of the early hulls that rides bow up,the picture of his on a header page here is a good example of how his runs. I suspect it has been reworked at the BBC. I also think that Mike hasn't opened his up yet either.

My understanding is that Marshall’s hull hasn’t been touched. Some hulls run much more bow high than others- and I’ve noticed it seems to correlate to whether you have the padded transom or not. Pad = fast... not that the pad itself has any effect, but I’m guessing there were multiple molds, and they weren’t quite created equal. The clean transom boats run noticeably more flat (and slow).

Sea trials continued yesterday. I installed the used 12x15 prop huge difference, New 143 degree thermostat temp steady around 160 . Carb wedge also made a big difference I was able to lower the idle speed so no more lunging when put in gear also the black stains on the transom from the exhaust are gone. Overall it went well  except for the rear ladder. I went with the ladder instead of a platform because of the fuel tank being so close to the transom on the outsides the ladder mounts in the center and was there when I got the boat. I rebuilt it using stainless tubing instead of the thin aluminum . I think I put the lower step too far down . I set it 1'' above the bottom of the transom but during sea trials it caused major high speed driving and turning problems . It was forcing the bow to ride lower and driving water up and over the transom. It was a scary ride especially during a right turn. lesson learned this boat needs to ride high in the bow. I removed the lower step and eliminated the problem. I have seen Mustangs with rear mounted ladders if you have one can you measure how high the step is above the bottom of the transom?

Ok I will try that . How hard was it to get on the ladder with it being so far up?

Nautiquehunter wrote: Ok I will try that . How hard was it to get on the ladder with it being so far up?

Yea and now days Pete with a Acme prop you'd slip and end up cutting off a toe   If I had some gel coat left I'd just remove the dumb thing. Mike lay on the floor of your living room with your butt against the wall,put your feet up the wall with your knee's back by your ears. Now imagine trying to pull yourself up    

I made a rope sling to hopefully help with getting on the ladder without it dragging the water. It loops over the rear lifting fitting. 

Riley wrote: That's a good idea that will be a big help.

this right here is why one NEVER boards with then engine running!

Nautiquehunter wrote: I made a rope sling to hopefully help with getting on the ladder without it dragging the water. It loops over the rear lifting fitting.

I already have one. About 6 years ago Davis instruments made an adjustable step rope ladder much like Mike has made. When you are in water where things are bigger than you - you can't be worrying if your foot is on the rudder 

Hopefully it’s narrower than a real #3. If it’s too wide you’ll just stab the boat between the bunks, not up on them.

Tim posted incremental widths of #3s and #2s a long while ago, maybe someone can find them.