Boats For Sale:
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Geof80sn 
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Joined: February-03-2021 Location: Dallas Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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 Topic: TransmissionPosted: February-11-2021 at 2:03pm |
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I am new to the forum, I recently purchased a 1980 SN. She looks great cosmetically. I was told the motor was “tired” but would last another season. I began the task to determine the status of the motor, by starting and keep running for approximately 30 sec. To get fuel from tank to pump using starter fluid. (It sounded good). The motor coughed and died. At that point I tried to start again and got nothing. No click nothing. The battery was hot because the blower worked. I walked away really pleased the motor A)started B)Ran C)sounded good. Later I looked in engine compartment and saw transmission fluid around bottom of bell housing and a few drops in the well. Long story short, the prop spins freely reguardless what position the gear selector was in. 351w. BW velvet drive 1:1
I don’t have the serial or model #s as I’m writing this but can get. So guys any ideas, or suggestions? I’ve been reading old threads so do I just need to pull out the box and send it to the transmission guru, Eric? Lol I’ve been a skier all my life all I had to concern myself with was having as much fun as I could, ski as long as I possibly could with as short of a rope as possible. Now it’s up to me to make sure the boat is mechanically sound and lake ready. I just want to say thanks to my dad and all the dads like him for keeping the boat lake ready and mechanically sound for all those years so all we kids had to do was have fun. Thanks in advance for any comments or help you care to offer. |
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C_Heath
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Joined: January-21-2020 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 207 |
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Posted: February-11-2021 at 2:08pm |
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@keno will know
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1979 Calipso Runabout (the boat that got it all started)
1988 Mastercraft ProStar 190 (sold) 2000 Pro Air Nautique/GT40 |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11059 |
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Posted: February-11-2021 at 5:59pm |
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It's normal for the prop to be able to be spun by hand in Forward, neutral or Reverse while the engine isn't running.
Hydraulic pressure from the pump at the front of the transmission is what engages the Forward or Reverse clutches. If the pump isn't being turned by the engine, there's no pressure and the transmission is in neutral. If you start the engine and now the pump is turning and producing pressure, you should be able to shift it into Forward or Reverse. When you get it running, the shaft may spin slowly forward if you have excess drag in the forward clutches. You should be able to stop the shaft with a little pressure from a 2X4 against the transmission output coupling. If you're putting it in gear on the trailer , the strut bearing in front of the prop should be lubricated to keep it from being worn by the shaft. Water sprayed in that area works real well since it's a water lubricated bearing that's always lubricated by the lake/river water when the boat is in the water being used Some people will tell you that it needs to be immediately overhauled and some will tell you they've had that issue for years. As long as it doesn't affect your low speed driveability it can be lived with for a long time. Sometimes a rebuilt transmission has this same issue when you get it back. Do a search for "dirty neutral" here on CCF for lots of reading The transmission leak is probably the front seal and depending on the amount of leakage it could be lived with or replaced There's plenty of info on CCF about transmission leaks too. The link below has info for Fantastic Finishes Marine and the new owner Joe who could answer whatever you might ask him |
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Geof80sn
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Joined: February-03-2021 Location: Dallas Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: February-11-2021 at 7:57pm |
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Thank you very much you’ve been very helpful. May have saved me a lot of time too as I was on the verge of just pulling the tranny out and having it overhauled which led me to the conclusion if I do the transmission I might as well do the motor too as it has 1400 hrs on it and the oil analysis indicates presence of fuel. I sure would like to get one good season out of her before I have to do that. The previous owner mentioned an impeller change would be wise. If it’s pushing water out of the exhaust I figure I should be ok. I’ll let you know about tranny as soon as I get her running . Thanks again.
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SNobsessed
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Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: February-11-2021 at 9:58pm |
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Impeller change is really worth the money, as an old one can break off pcs & clog the passages (esp. if run dry). If that happens, the $50 or so would look like pretty small money. Fuel in oil is probably a carb issue - how do the spark plugs look?
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Geof80sn
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Joined: February-03-2021 Location: Dallas Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 1:08am |
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I honestly dont know but I’m fairly certain that there ar carb issues. I will brave the intense cold and pull them tomorrow and let you know. I have a question I bet it’s taboo to ask but what the....what is the difference in a marine and a street carburetor., and what is the downside of using a street carb in a marine application?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11059 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 7:04am |
Like SNobsessed said...............change the impeller, it's cheap, you have no idea what it looks like or how old it is and if the previous owner says it may need one, that's probably secret code for "I haven't looked at it for the last 10 years  Before you get into the job, click on the link below to find lots of reading on how to make sure you get the pump reinstalled the right way As far as your carburetor, keep it simple and easy to understand, a marine one does a better job of making sure any overflow from the bowls ends up going down the carburetor throats and not spilling out onto the engine and hot exhaust manifolds. Gas and hot exhaust leads to fires and/or explosions. Most all the "marine rated" stuff is there for that reason Other things that are marine (or should be) for fire/explosion reasons are The carburetor The fuel pump The flame arrestor on top of the carburetor The fuel lines The alternator The distributor The starter, With you having a reverse rotation engine, if you put an automotive starter on it, the engine would rotate the wrong way and never start anyways Electric motors like the bilge blower are ignition protected I'd get the boat running before you make any decisions on the engine, transmission etc. 1400 hours is not bad at all, depending on how it was taken care of for the last 40 or so years. Oh and one other thing..............nice weather forecast for the next few days down there around Dallas assuming that's the one in Texas Brave the intense cold by searching and reading a bunch here on CCF, indoors of course
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SNobsessed
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Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 7:32am |
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A friend of mine's boat is still running at 2300 hours.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 7:41am |
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75 Tique
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Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6127 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 8:23am |
Are you sure its pushing water out the exhaust? If you are running it with a garden hose stuck into the water intake, the water pressure could be pushing the water through and your pump is doing nothing. Check that by pumping out of a bucket if that is not what you are already doing.
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“So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
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Geof80sn
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Joined: February-03-2021 Location: Dallas Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 10:22am |
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I am in DAllas and it looks like a hundred year storm is gonna hit us. I’m sure glad I didn’t de winterize the boat. I am going to put a heated blanket or a heater under the cover to keep motor warm.
Thank you guys for all the help and suggestions. I’ll keep you posted. |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 10:33am |
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100 year storm? Maybe it would be better if you just drained the block and manifolds then- what happens if your electric goes out?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11059 |
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Posted: February-12-2021 at 10:49am |
+1 on what Gary said Looking at the Dallas weather, it's kinda chilly, you're gonna have lows around zero and not be above freezing for about 3 or 4 days. Not knowing how it was winterized, I'd be draining everything and probably getting some RV antifreeze into it just to be safe in case you missed something with the drain job If you had water hooked to it on your 30 second run in the first post, it's pretty effectively dewinterized already and full of water Dallas 10 day forecast in the link |
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Geof80sn wrote: