Electronic Ignition = problems

I ordered this clip down style Ignition conversion kit for my 1986 Silver Nautique because of the great testimonials in this thread. I removed the point plate, installed the new conversion plate and wiring, connected black to the negative side of the coil and red to the positive side. Instructions said if you have a existing ballast resistor, to leave that installed, so i did. When i went to crank it over, it would try to fire but wouldn't and it backfired. I immediately went to my computer for help and took advice from the above thread link.

NAUTI84 posted: "Was pretty easy to do. Old plate with points/condenser comes out of distributor & The new kit replaces it.
Only other thing was that you had to by-pass the external resistor. Snipped wire each side & connected them."

So i decided to bypass the external resistor. When I did, the ignition just clicked. It continued clicking and not turning over for a while but after pushing the 40amp reset button several times and reconnecting the ballast resistor, I got the boat to crank over again. I then resulted to adjusting the timing. I loosened the distributor and turned slightly to the left and the boat fired right up.

I then went to lake test it. I got out there and the boat was running like damnit. I adjusted the timing some more, got the boat to speed, but it was missing slightly so I stopped to make more adjustments. I turned the dizzy a small bit to the left, went to crank the boat and it wouldn't do anything - just clicked. I jumped the starter selenoid, it started the boat and limped back the the dock and I'm now asking for advice. This clicking continued and is coming from the starter selenoid it sounds like.
So I question:
1.) Did bypassing the resistor fry my starter selenoid or something else?
2.) When installing this electronic system, do i need to be running the ballast resistor?
3.) After installation of the system, are major timing/carb adjustments usually needed?

This is really pissing me off and right now I wish I would have left my old school points alone.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brandon

So your saying I've done right by leaving the ballast resistor connected and not bypassing it?

If it was a battery problem, why was I able to hot wire (jump with a screwdriver) the starter selenoid and it started, but it wouldn't crank and just clicked when i turned the key?

I marked my distributor and the engine block before I adjusted, so I can always go back to where I started before the conversion.

Alright then...

I'll leave the ballast resistor connected as the instructions explained.

I'll get a legit battery and put faith in the starter selenoid to crank it.

I'll borrow a timing light and adjust it right. What degree(s) do I need to be at or start from?

The starter selenoid must have went out. Even with a brand new battery 750cca, it's still clicking and not starting unless I bypass the selenoid. SO, I'll start with the selenoid, reset the timing and go from there. Thanks for your help guys.

Check connections, all seemed well. Replaced selenoid and it fired right up. I will takle the timing later.