Igntion Issues

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Asking for a friend, literally.  A neighbor, coincidentally, has another 176.  It had an old espark or unilight of some sort in it.  He went to replace the shutter rotor a while back, but it was an odd, 2 piece rotor, not like the red and black one I had with my esparks in my old tique.  Skidim said he couldnt get the old rotor any more and suggested he update his ignition.  The boat had been running ok with the old parts until just recently, when it started running real rough at speed, and poorly to not at all at idle, so he finally decided to get the new parts. They sent him these two parts. 

upload image

He put the new parts in.  Also, when reassembling, he noticed his wire from coil to cap was bad, so he replaced that one lead.  We verified 37 times, the instructions said bypass the ballast resistor.  The boat ran better but still not right, so he went on and picked up other tune up parts (wires, plugs....)  When he opened up distributor, he found that the end of the rotor had melted.  Any ideas?  (Ken???)  I've never seen that before.  First thought was bypassing the resistor, but it was very clear to do that.

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75 Tique Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6130	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75 Tique Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Igntion Issues Posted: July-31-2023 at 7:17pm
	Asking for a friend, literally. A neighbor, coincidentally, has another 176. It had an old espark or unilight of some sort in it. He went to replace the shutter rotor a while back, but it was an odd, 2 piece rotor, not like the red and black one I had with my esparks in my old tique. Skidim said he couldnt get the old rotor any more and suggested he update his ignition. The boat had been running ok with the old parts until just recently, when it started running real rough at speed, and poorly to not at all at idle, so he finally decided to get the new parts. They sent him these two parts. upload image He put the new parts in. Also, when reassembling, he noticed his wire from coil to cap was bad, so he replaced that one lead. We verified 37 times, the instructions said bypass the ballast resistor. The boat ran better but still not right, so he went on and picked up other tune up parts (wires, plugs....) When he opened up distributor, he found that the end of the rotor had melted. Any ideas? (Ken???) I've never seen that before. First thought was bypassing the resistor, but it was very clear to do that.
	_____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”

KENO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11125	Post Options Post Reply Quote KENO Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-31-2023 at 8:46pm
	I think the old Unilite for the Prestolite distributors used the original rotor in conjunction with the 2 piece shutter wheel you described. It was different from yours because you had a Mallory distributor. I kinda wonder if when he did the Pertronix conversion, he used the old rotor? If so, maybe it was damaged by running with the bad coil wire for however long. It might have looked OK but was getting ready to die. If he put a new rotor in when the Pertronix was installed then I guess the above question wouldn't pertain That looks like a 91581LS module that doesn't need the magnet ring and the directions do say to bypass the ballast resistor, so it sounds like it was installed and wired right. I'd guess that a new rotor, cap and plug wires should let it work like it's supposed to

Rwalter Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: July-19-2023 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rwalter Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-31-2023 at 9:08pm
	It’s my 176 and Larry was kind enough to get the thread started since I was out tinkering all evening with it and new to this site. It’s the new rotor that is melted but old distr cap. (Would that matter?) The old coil wire was barely able to sustain suction seal on coil post and I may have really did it more damage when I had to unplug it and then plug it back into new coil during the change out leading to this? Old rotor looked ok typical of normal wear. Thanks in advance!

Reno Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: August-02-2021 Location: Grafton WI Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Reno Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-31-2023 at 9:36pm
	I installed that exact stuff in my 302 Ford and I recall that the rotor sat higher in the cap initially because there was a spacer washer somewhere in there. I don't remember exactly, but it's worth a look to determine if the rotor is up to high in the cap and what appears to be melting is instead from rubbing inside of the cap as opposed to heat being generated from the electrical system. Just something I thought about as soon as I read this based on what I experienced.
	Reno

75 Tique Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6130	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75 Tique Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-31-2023 at 10:49pm
	The spoked trigger shown here is still in his distributor. Could that have prevented the rotor from seating down as far as it should?
	_____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”

KENO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11125	Post Options Post Reply Quote KENO Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August-01-2023 at 5:31am
	With the 91581LS kit, the spoked wheel stays as it was and has no spacer of any kind in the kit. Reno , I found a picture of your 302 HM engine with a Mallory distributor.in an old post of yours..........different kit and Mallory's did have a spacer that the Prestolite doesn't. Larry and Rick, the way the kit is installed in the first picture is right . If it was rubbing you would have been hearing some funny noises about 8 times per revolution of the distributor

Morfoot Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5320	Post Options Post Reply Quote Morfoot Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August-01-2023 at 6:02am
	I put a Petronix kit in the 88' back in 2006 and I'm pretty sure I did NOT follow the directions and bypass the resistor if it said to do so. Would have been Pertronix Gen I I'm guessing. Pretty sure I still have the box in the boat toolbox with old points and condenser in it (as back up). So I can look at the instructions to see if it said to bypass the resistor. Never had a problem with it. Been a hot minute or so since I tinkered with it so it's not failed me in many years. I did have to change the coil out once and went with the flame thrower coil. Rotor did fail a year ago and NAPA wanted a gold brick for the rotor and got one thru Miami Nautique for much less. Not sure if this helps but my .02 worth.
	"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"

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