Acceleration issues.

You're supposed to show up after all this time and say something like "the boat runs great, the GF is all smiles" but no, you have this news instead  

Sorry, I forgot to address a couple other questions as well. They did replace the Ignition Module when I sent it back to DUI since that was one of our primary concerns then as well. Regarding the tach gauge, it appears to be close at lower rpms and having prior boats it really doesn't feel like we are getting into the high 4000's or to 5000 but that is just based on my experience and nothing technical or tested. 

I'd say you have a spacer o top of a spacer there.

Well...that is something that definitely needs to be addressed. Especially since it is a 37 year old gasket with original paint. Great catch! What I documented regarding the stud threads versus what I recall definitely support that as well. I have spent so much time starring at this motor that I am beginning to second guess myself at this point. Whether it is ultimately the solution or not it needs to be addressed and gaskets are way cheaper than new carburetors and distributors.  Although this boat absolutely needed those as well. Thank you for the link as well. Very similar issues and hoping for similar results.

Just a few quick photos of the spacer after the machine shop. Quite a difference and well worth the 60 bucks in my opinion.

In the old days we always hooked up a vacuum gauge and adjusted the idle mix screws for max vacuum so I think you did great.   One warning, boats like to be a little richer at idle which helps when you drop it in gear, if the idle is lean it will stall as it goes into gear on the water.  The prop puts a pretty good load on the engine.   I mention this because you might find you need to play with it on the water in gear to get it where you want it.

I did check the float levels when I re-installed the carb and they are both set to the halfway point in the sight windows.

I think your getting used to looking at the newer engines and trans. I believe the older setups were all at 12 degrees across all makes but not positive. Here is an old picture of my HM they did use a wedge

I think that before you get too excited, you should check the voltage at the alternator output and at the battery with the engine running at a couple thousand RPM and see what you have for readings. Check voltage right at the distributor also

AZ86SKIThe battery did read 12.7 volts with the boat off when I returned home. I will start checking the different voltage readings and see what we get. Thanks.[/QUOTE wrote: 12.7 at the battery, engine off and back at home tells me that your alternator is working, but do those checks mentioned earlier anyways.

My apologies for the delay in getting the blanks filled in, most of the blanks anyway , regarding the electrical readings. 

From your voltage readings it sounds like your alternator is putting out voltage perfectly and is getting that voltage to your battery.  That tells you the battery positive and negative have good connections and cables to the engine and alternator.   Starter gets full power and spins your engine normally. Sounds like your issue is the ground at the dash or positive feed wire to the dash.  Maybe one of the dash components has a problem grounding internally?  Maybe your Volt gauge is just bad?  Check voltage with your Volt Meter at the volt gauge to verify.   I can't say about your boat buy my 95 dash is a little odd in my way of thinking.  They piggy back the grounds from gauge to gauge so if the one loses its ground every gauge after that in line loses its ground.  Nautique used one small wire, maybe 16 gauge and all the gauges/accessories pull ground off that wire, It works fine most of the time, I just don't like the way they did it.  Many have reported gauge issues due to the wiring method.  I melted my cigarette lighter once using a Million candle power spot light for navigation.  When I repaired that I added a much heavier back up ground and heavier hot wire to the lighter and tied it into the gauges so it no longer overheats when exposed to a heavy amp draw and the gauges all have a stronger back up ground.  ( the spot light now works fine).  Also added a couple USB charging plugs while in there, seems like everyone entering the boat has a phone that needs charged these days.

David, I use the center dash Ice Chest/ storage box for general storage.  I plugged 2 USB ports inside this box on the upper right hand side looking in from the opening.  They are out of the way and allow charging phones or iPads while all cables and the device are inside the storage box.   

The main wire from your alternator to the battery should be a large wire.  The alternator even on an old boat will probably put out 45 AMPs to charge your battery and maintain the system.  That main wire has to be large enough to handle 45 amps, it might be a 6 foot long wire and the ability to carry amps drops based on how long the wire is, longer runs need a larger wire to produce the same results.  I am thinking you might need a #10 wire from the alternator to the Battery.   The other wires activate the alternator and do not carry large amp loads but the charging wire needs to be heavy.