Acceleration issues.

The Charging Path is exactly as you described and the wiring around the solenoid being "homegrown" is an understatement. 

I attached a few photos. I had a feeling that after we replaced the automotive distributor and ignition module a while back that additional electrical issues would possibly follow. The electrical taped wires to and from the breaker never looked right to me so it's time undue or at least verify whatever electrical mess was previously created, which was possibly done to make the automotive distributor work. I have the original owners manual so I will go through it and see what if any electrical diagrams it may have. It amazes me how many issues a boat with only 400 plus hours can have, especially with most of my hours testing on the trailer. Ha.

I was able to re-test the red wire at the back of the alternator in the AC mode and it held a steady 32.2. Just FYI.

 

I also tested the light blue big wire and what do you know...a steady 14.06 volts . I should also mention that in addition to the red wire not having the factory crimp, the black and green wires also have additional electrical tape at the crimps that appear homegrown as well. 

One quick question, does the alternator appear to be the stock or correct alternator?

I will begin the process of following the wires and see where they all lead...especially the red wire. I will let you know what I find. 

Here are some photos of the wiring around the solenoid and breaker for reference. Thanks again for everyone's help and I will definitely need it when it comes to electrical.

From the back, it posted sideways

From the top, posted sideways as well.

I was able to get a photo of the back of the distributor without removing the alternator showing a diagram of the wiring. See below.

I know it is a bit tough to see. There are four wiring indicators.

Field Terminal - Where the green wire is connected. The red you see is just the connector, not the wire. 

Regulator Terminal - Where the red wire is connected.

Ground Terminal - Where the black wire is connected.

Output Terminal - Where the blue/grey wire is connected. This wire must have been replaced at some point as KENO indicated as the wiring schematics show it should be orange but we are going with the blue/gray that is there now. 

The red, black and green all work there way back to the external voltage regulator and all of this wiring looks fairly clean and original. See below. Posted sideways.

The blue/grey wire (that should be orange) goes from the output terminal on the distributor to the back of the breaker. This where the wiring has a much more homegrown appearance. It is connected at the same location on the breaker as a red wire that then runs to a large connector that then runs in wiring harness back up towards the front of the boat. Here is a photo of the back of the

breaker. Posted sideways as well. 

.

I don't see in the schematics a breaker at all. However, where the blue/gray (should be orange) wire connects at the breaker with the red wire, the red wire then leads into the wiring harness as displayed in the schematics. It seems like the battery is charging as it should with tests we ran on the trailer. Anyone see anything that could be causing any strange voltage readings on the gauge or more importantly solving our last remaining issue of lack of power under load and only achieving 2300-2500 RPM under load?   

Here is a photo of the solenoid/relay as well while we are dealing with the electrical just in case that is helpful. The smaller red wire you see coming in from the top left (as the photo sits) comes in from the breaker but the opposite side of the breaker where the blue/grey is connected. Posted sideways as well.

      

Any thoughts, guidance or possible solutions would be greatly appreciated. If it all checks out then we are left the last remaining issue of only achieving 2300-2500 RPM under load. Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it. 

                

Hey KENO,

It doesn't say what diameter hose it is. I know to get USCG approved fuel line, but I don't know what size or the maybe a recommendation for a source. Thanks!

You would be correct, my apologies. I was planning to update the thread soon, but no time like the present to maintain some level of etiquette. 

My apologies for the delay in updating this post, especially with all the great guidance I have received here along the way. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of progress to report. I had some other priorities come up that took my attention. However, the last time out last summer, it ran as it has been, still maxing out at the 2000 or so RPM level. Still enjoyed the day at the lake and didn't need a tow back. The last start before heading back, the alarm sounded briefly with no alarm lights when starting, but it started. Of course she asked, what was that? I said it was just the return to dock alarm which was received with another eye roll.  I'm sure that will be a new issue to resolve.

Since then, I have replaced the entire fuel line from the tank to the water/fuel separator. In doing so, I did notice that the outgoing fuel line fitting on the water/fuel separator had loosened a bit from some tension in the bending of the outgoing fuel line. It was seeping a bit. So I corrected that as well. I believe I had ordered the new fuel line before the last run to the lake, but I don't think I had actually replaced the fuel line or found the loose water/fuel separator leak. It's been a while but I am leaning no. I also put a new battery in it so hopefully that will address the alarm sound when starting. 

I can't say she is smiling yet, it's more of a we made it back to the dock relief grin. I can't think of anything else I need to address before the next run to the lake in maybe a month. I will let you all know how it goes. Again, my apologies for the delay in updating this post. I haven't given up yet!