Got pipes?

Those following along with my top end issues have already seen these pics, but Ill share them here for everyone else.

My dual exhaust project is done. For those unfamiliar, Correct Craft started installing 2-in, 1-out mufflers in 1989. That means that with the exception of a very few boats (502 Pythons boats, for example) all CC's since then have had a single exhaust outlet.

The biggest trick on this project was creating room for a second pipe, with an outlet symmetrical to the original. On all '89+ boats, the exhaust is routed between the primary stringers instead of outside of them. That meant that a second pipe runs very close to the centerline of the boat- right through where the rudder arm used to swing.   The picture below isnt from my boat (possibly Darrel's?) but it shows how the stock exhaust and rudder arm looked (though mine was run on the opposite side):



On the motor side, I matched the 3.5" header outlets to a section of 3.5" SS piping that brought the exhaust to the floor. Theyre not symmetrical, as each side had its own obstacles- water intake hardware, blower lines, etc. I had a custom exhaust place build the pipes for me, and I had them ceramic coated to match the Hi-teks.

The tips are 4" polished SS with internal flappers. I had the reducers welded to the tips and a section of pipe added to that. This gave me a little extra clearance with the rudder arm and gave me 2 straight shots back with the reinforced hardwall hose. I could have gone SS all the way back, but the hose provides support (it sits on the hull) and absorbs vibration. It also keeps the exhaust modular should it need to be disassembled.












While everything was apart, I ran all new cooling hoses as well as fuel lines, and replaced the steering cable.

The boat should now be JBear approved. It still has the characteristic whine from the 1.23 tranny, but compared to the exhaust its almost unnoticeable. Slip-in style silencers/mufflers are coming in the near future.

As far as I know, this is the first boat to be converted like this. There are a very small handful of boats that were converted either by the factory or dealerships- but the ones I could find all had 2 new holes cut closer to the inside of the stringers. The original hole (if there was one) was either plugged or re-glassed.

If nothing else, its different.

all show and no go....like the Boat docs,
maybe we should re-name the site "trailer queens only"

on the serious side i see many signs of perfection and I commend you

Tim, It sure is looking good. It does look like alot of "customizing" with the plumbing and the steering but I'm sure the results will be worth it. You've got over 6 weeks before GL so that's plenty of time to fine tune the project. Looking forward to seeing it.

That is a lot of fabrication work! And worth it based on looks alone, very trick. The stainless drop pipes are so much cleaner looking and give you more room than the invertaflo. Love the end tips too, makes it look like the hotrod that it is! I was hoping that you would explain in more detail when looking at the pics in your engine post. Thanks and good luck on the fine tuning.

you getting any work done today B.D.?
insults are a form of flatery

you getting any work done today B.D.?
insults are a form of flattery, oh by the way its LaVine

Looks awesome Tim, great craftsmanship. I do have a funny feeling you're no where near done with the mods though. Seems there are quite a few here with that afliction. Sure is rewarding along the way though isn't it.

WOW!! Awesome job, i think those stainless drop pipes are my favorite.
Well done!!

Nate

Tim,

That is so awesome and it must sound even better than it looks. Nice Work!

JMurph, I know what you mean. I put the Hi-Teks on mine and the rest of my exhaust pipes/hoses look like a patch quilt compared to this thing of Tim's. I'm just gonna 'glass my engine box shut until after Green Lake. Tim, if I was a boating GIRL, I'd be all over you, cause you can obviously do magic.

The two "scoops" on either side of the pipes are the lifting rings, during the sloped transom time they took the single lifting ring at the top, replaced it with a tow point & moved the lifting rings to below the swim platform. I believe this to be true, but i also may be talking out of my ass...who knows?

Nate

Tim,

you da man!!

See ya at Green Lake!!

I can't stop staring at that exhaust... i think this might be my new favorite thread. mmmm

Nate

I can't see the pix but steering arm moment is negligible compared to the forces the bushing sees from the rudder underneath. The rudder effort is neutralized by material forward of the pivot, but the total side force it develops is significant and a lot higher than one can produce with the sterring mechanism.

Wow, lots of nice comments to come back to after my long weekend- thanks everyone!

Eric, trust me- shes no trailer queen! These pics are a few weeks old- I meant to take a bunch over Memorial Day weekend but I was too busy hot lapping the lake.

It does sound good- at least to me. Our lake is pretty small so Im not sure my neighbors will agree, especially when it comes time for some early morning barefoot runs this summer.

Jeff, total time invested with the project wasnt too bad, actually. Doing the floor last year was much worse. There were about 3 weekends worth of my labor, but it did take a lot of planning- sourcing parts, hardware, etc. Plus the time spent at the exhaust place, machine shop and coater's. About 6 weeks start to finish. Cost was a lot more than expected, but that somehow always seems to happen. Installing a single angled tip on your boat wouldnt be hard- lots of places sell the 4" parts (mine are Eddie Marine). The mounting holes likely wont line up (mine used 3 bolts instead of 4), but I sealed everything with Boat Life Caulk.