78 SN with problems

I'm in the process of rewiring my 78 SN. It has a 351 Commander. it has been setting up for about 12 years and about 2 or 3 years ago I pulled it out of the barn and tried to get it running. The first thing i did was ordered a electronic ignition conversion kit and plugs,wires, dist. cap from the local Napa, had the carb rebuilt, and had the starter rebuilt. I put all this back on and it wouldn't start. I thought I followed the directions that come with the electronic ignition exactly but it was acting as though it was 180 degrees out on the timing. I tried everything I could think of and still no luck.
I ordered an owners manual from "Woody" @ S.E. CC which had the firing order along with a wiring diagram. checked everything again and it still no luck. well by this time I'm pouring gas in the carb to make sure that it was getting fuel and seeing that I'm pouring from a five gallon jug, yes i spilt it on the intake and wiring harness in the process. well instead of cleaning up my mess before trying to start again I was aggrivated and tired and tried one more time. well you can imagine what happened next when it backfired through the carb. MAN WHAT A FIRE! it probably wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't knocked a can of ether off the side rail and if it hadn't busted when it landed on the jack stand sitting by the boat. well it sprayed starting fluid back into the air comimg over the boat. the fire died down when the can lost it's pressure (about 2 seconds) but the gas on the intake was still burning so I finally got out grabbed the dogs water bucket soaked the engine and the fire was out I climbed back in and threw all my tools out into the driveway and hooked the tractor up took it and put it back behind the barn again. well it's been three years and I have finally got over my being mad at the boat and I'm gonna try again. Which finally brings me to the problem at hand.

I've pulled the motor and have it on my workbench to rewire and try again.

Can I replace my clip down prestolite distributor that i tried to put the conversion kit in and replace the whole thing with a new electronic distributor. my motor is not reverse rotation so can I put a regular MALLORY or MSD distributor in? I give up on the conversion kit unless someone has some new ideas. I'm having trouble rewiring because whoever had the boat before me cut and spliced the wires and what i see doesn't match the diagram in the owners manual. Does anyone have a repair manual for this motor that would be a little more detailed than the owners manual. please help with any ideas how to get it running.   

I would suggest upgrading to the new style internally regulated alternator and wiring harness from skidim as well since it sounds like your harness is a little crispy. And a can off carb cleaner or ether is better than the raw gas. If you move the throttle and gas squirts out then you have gas at the carb and there is no need for the extra fuel. When you get everything back together and are still having problems check one thing at a time to narrow down the problem, move the throttle and watch for gas in the throat of the carb, if you see gas then your ok, if not then replace the fuel filters,check fuel pump, check for bad fuel lines or blockage in a line, now check the ignition system, check for spark at the plug, if you don't have spark, then check for incorrect wiring, voltage at the coil, the rotor is in place under the dist cap, check for a bad coil and track it down until you have spark. Now once you have fuel and spark it comes down to timing and the carb adjustments.

Definately get rid of the resistor. The ballast resistor's only purpose is to lower the voltage at the coil to prevent burning of the point contacts. Since you eliminated the points, no need for the resistor. I believe ALL ignition modules can handle the full 12V continuous.

Not sure about mounting the module backwards, but do NOT install the distributor with the rotor 180 degrees out. Get the distributor in correctly, then play with the module orientation. I will not harm the engine, it just won't run without major backfiring. Also, if it fires, but does not catch, then play with the timing until it runs. You basically want the timing advanced so as to achieve the fastest and most steady idle. Then back it off a bit to avoid pre-ignition under load.

One last thing. Check your plugs and replace if necessary. No telling what they look like after years of inactivety.

I suppose the words "I believe" passed you by. Hardly the words of certainty. I added this precisely because there are exceptions to most rules. Usually when I am not certain I say as such and when it is my ippinion, I try to say that as well. Also, there are other ways of doing things in most cases, but that does not make one way wrong and other way correct. Interesting that you chose not to identify yourself (snip, oops). And when you comment on my errors, as you say (and yes I would expect there to be some), are you certain you are correct?

I never try to be argumentative, so if I am, I apologize. Also, I commend you on clearing up the Petronix/resistor thing, and it is always in everyone's best interest to read instructions when installing products.

David

My only problem with your post was the opening sentence.

"Definately get rid of the resistor".

I dont know how you see it, but that's a pretty straight forward instruction.

In regards to argumentative, your also very consistent.

well now I'm a little confused because my conversion kit is a PERTRONIX and the number 1581-82 is stamped into the plate it also has a sticker on it that has "26T-V4".

I plan on calling pertronix tommorrow and try to find out a little more about this one.

Stan C - at this point nothing is silly. I'll try anything and to be honest with you I hadn't thought of that either but it makes since.

ALLRIGHTYTHEN!!!!!

Well after a quick trip out in the rain to inspect my prop and then back to the shop to test the starter(for rotation). And I think I have found the problem, It's not the starter, it's not the rotation. IT'S THE MECHANIC!!!! HE DON"T KNOW HOW TO TELL WHICH WAY THE MOTOR ROTATES. I feel like such a Dumba@%. I had had been told by someone that you stand in front of the motor(back to the steering wheel) and if the Harmonic Bal. turns left it was a LH rotation(Regular) and if it turned right it was a RH(Reverse). that would explain why the motor was backfiring, it obviously didn't like the left hand rotation firing order I had put on it. This Is a good reason why I work as a mortgage lender and not a mechanic, I would starve to death as a mechanic!!!

Now before I get My hopes up to much are we sure that you check the rotation from behind the motor???? Instead of in front of the motor. ( not that I don't believe you Jameski but, as I have Learned from this site, everybody has a different opinion and they don't mind sharing them.) So i Guess I'm asking do we all agree that it is checked from behind the motor?

Good call Stan, that was the last thing most everyone would have thought of.

A right hand rotation turns counter clockwise when viewed from the front