Boat Dr. shell oil question

Bruce, remember that ALL oils had the zinc up until a few years ago. Now theres only a few left that do. Munday wiped a lobe on his cam 250 hours after making the switch to Mobil1, which is a very good oil, but didnt have the zinc. Is it worth the risk?

Tim, I did read it but it came across to me too much like a unproven additive.

Look at the oil burning on this one! He must not be using the Camgaurd!


Tim, just kidding here!

Geno wrote: 25 clams a pint. OUCH.

Exactly.

From what I can tell, ASL seems to be good stuff. They certainly have a lot of data to back up their bold claims. It does seem like overkill, though- especially at $15+ per oil change. My motor has over 1200 hours on it and the internals looked great when I tore the top end down- no signs of pitting or corrosion. Using the proper oil and changing it regularly is all that the motor needs.

If you want to run it, go ahead. It probably wont hurt anything besides your wallet.

The point is that the technology is out there, but you guys follow your tails around without looking at all of the options.

behindpropeller wrote: You guys are pretty ignorant that you don't even take the time to read through my link.

Thats a pretty bold statement, especially since you have no idea if anyone read it or not (I did). Rather, its simply that no one has chosen to comment on it.

I think you guy's are missing the boat on the green movement, perhaps a blend of vegetable oil for the SBC and used cooking oil for the Fords.

i need scientific proof, not marketing schemes, i have scientific proof on this 4.3.. no synthetics, no snake oils, nothing special just a good old fashioned oil change.
I have yet to seen a sludged boat engine or one so worn out that it was steaming blow by, except for a 68 Chris which the guy never changed his oil.
boat engines get 10 times the attention from the owners as do thier cars and will the synthetics and snake oils work.... over time maybe i would say 100 years or so. I have yet to see a post on here from someone complaining about an oil related engine issue.

79nautique wrote: Tim you read to much into a comment. What makes more since use existing parts and increase the volumes or create something new in lower volumes? what cost more what cost less? Try something new or use a proven design specification? The 4.3 was designed specifically for small trucks. Why create a new transmission for this application. If you knew how GM approaches new designs you would understand. GM is cheap and if they can use existing parts on the shelf they will every time. It reduces overall cost, reduces part numbers, reduces records i.e. drawings, reduces overall time to market all are very key elements in mass production of anything.

Chris, I understand completely. Im not knocking the 4.3 or GM. Im just saying that it does have a lot in common with the 350- which has obviously withstood the test of time.

ryanandrews wrote: the zinc is for metal to metal contact in which hopefully your oil is preventing this

Exactly. There are few places that have higher loading and a larger metal-metal contact area than between the cam and flat tappet lifter. In non-scientific terms, oils with the zinc will "stick" to the metal surfaces better than the newer oils without the additives- especially synthetics which have been described as too "slippery". While these new oils work wonders in today's high tech engines to decrease emissions and increase efficiency, they dont offer enough protection for our old-tech Fords.

When I buy it, yes I get it shipped direct to me. I will have to find the number at home. I try to do it tonight, but I should have it by tomorrow night for sure. When I find it I will call and see what the price is.

You can get royal purple direct, for a much better price. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs delivered for $120 last time I bought it. I will have to check on the price now.

ok read this ..the zinc is for metal to metal contact in which hopefully your oil is preventing this, if not the zinc reacts and acts to prevent scuffing and wear.the higher the amount of zinc doesnt give you more protection just longer if your motor expierences scuffing and wear for a longer time..too much zinc is bad cause it cna lead to deposits and plug fouling..
anyways i can ramble on ...my 2 cents

ryanandrews wrote: tr-where you gettin it for 10 15- 40 synthetic?..i guess iam..as long as your running oil with it filled properly and change it every 50 hours im sure you will be ok..ok on a serious note your saying rotella t 40 weight dino or valvoline vr1 is better than the 15-40 synthetic?.what about the pennzoil 15-40?...thats what i have been running in my nautique..i run rotella in my 01 dodge durango and 2004 gsxr 750..no problems yet..enlighten me, and im really not trying to be an ass here..

My bad, somehow I missed that it was synthetic. Per Doc's conversation with the engineer from Shell, it still wont have the zinc. Your money would be better spent on the right oil. No advantage to running synthetic if youre changing at the 50 hr mark anyways.

Yes, the 30w and 40w Rotella, or Valvoline VR1 is better for our flat tappet Fords than any oil that doesnt have the zinc- synthetic or not. We know for sure that Shell has eliminated the ZDDP from the Rotella 15w40. I suspect that the Pennzoil would be the same since its primary market would be diesels. Easiest way to check would be to look at the label- if it meets CJ-4, it doesnt have the zinc. If it meets CF-4 or doesnt meet any API spec, then theres a chance the zinc hasnt been eliminated (yet).

ryanandrews wrote: rotella t 15w -40 synthetic for 16/gal at you local store

So not only are you using (and recommending) the wrong oil, but youre getting ripped on the price too? Rotella is $10/gallon locally here. VR1 is only sold by the qt, and is under $3.

rotella t 15w -40 synthetic for 16/gal at you local store

http://www.aslcamguard.com/

Interesting to read you guys blab on all day about ZDDP when the number one thing that will kill 99% of boat engines is CORROSION