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Trans, oil change

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    Posted: February-07-2009 at 9:32pm
I pumped out all the transmission oil today in my boat. I don't know when it was changed last, could of been many years ago. It looked kind of purplish and creamy and not the red color of new ATF. I took out about 1 1/2 quarts and hope that is what should be in there. Replaced it with Castrol Dextron III/ Mercron ATF.

I'm thinking maybe I should change it again after running it a few times to get out any remaining contaminated oil.

Does this sound right for a trans. oil change ? It's a 71c Velvet Drive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2009 at 12:04pm
if you do change, dilute it even more by adding dexron to the top and run for a couple minutes then change
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roym Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2009 at 1:24pm
Eric
Are you saying to overfill the transmission to the top of the fill hole and then run it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2009 at 1:41pm
yes, it wont hurt anything, just to dilute the oil some and then change
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2009 at 7:57pm
I'm gonna change my fluid this pre season, should i go with a synthetic fluid? I was thinking about going with this.... Royal Purple

P.S.-Eric, we have been getting a medium loud tranny noise when the tranny is cold. Sounds like rocks in a dryer, and it loud enough to hear over the exhaust. Goes away when it is warm. any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2009 at 9:28pm
Careful with those. I remember in a previous thread that a lot of people said not to use any additives or syn. I bet Eric will reply soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2009 at 10:24pm
Chris,
Our transmissions are not the same as automotive trans's which are basically a pump and turbine where a: " low co-efficient of friction and high film strength help to dramatically reduce heat and wear." is beneficial. Marines are a pump that applies pressure to the clutch plates engaging the engine to the prop shaft. A low coefficient of friction is not what you want between the clutch plates. If they slip, they heat and the plates warp then you'll be sending you trans to Eric!! Instead of looking at what I would call "bling" fluids, take some time to look through the trans manuals in our ref. section. Some show the internals so you may get the idea on how they work.

Stick with regular Dexron/Mercon

Concerning the noise, how's your dampner plate?

Eric, Anything to add?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2009 at 11:31pm
in other words synthetic may make the trans slip on powering up, I'll run the old type F in higher HP tranny's because of an additive that adds more co efficiency

a good example of these transmissions is imagine putting your hands together as if you were praying, a synthetic will act like a hand creme between your hands when you squeeze your hands together and try to twist, normal oils or even a type F would be more like pine tar between your hands....a little easier to understand.

use normal fluids...Dexron Mercon compatible...no synthetics
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2009 at 11:32pm
BTW, it does sound if you did need a damper plate also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 1:04pm
Yes, that is what we were thinking. So why does the noise go away once the Transmisson is warm? Is the fluid thinner?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 2:22pm
you may have a slight miss with the engine when cold and will smooth out as it warms, dont get me wrong that the damper springs have weakened but also it could be an engine problem aggrivating the damper. a half a degree of timing will cause a damper noise, a bad plug also...when you hear a damper noise think of it as a jack hammer, it is causing premature wear and needs to be addressed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 2:35pm
Thats what my dad suggested. The engine might be idling a little slower than it does when its warm also causing a "rough idle." Once warm, sounds like a new engine, and no tranny noise. How difficult would it be to change the dampner plate? Is it something that a boat shop has to do? Or someone with Experiance can do? My dad has taken out 18 wheeler trannys before, we are just not sure about how to do this, and deffinatly dont want to damage anything that will interupt with our Skiing season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 3:34pm
Eric,
Speaking of damper plates, I think I'm about due on the BFN. Motor runs like a top after new DUI dizzy, carb rebuild and full tune up. It produces a big clunk apon engageing in forward gear. Never does it it in reverse gear, just forward but does it every time warm or cold. Am I thinking right? It's only got 400 hrs. and new been apart.
What do you recomend?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 4:45pm
Chris,
It sounds like your dad wouldn't have a problem with a dampner. If you don't know what it is, do a search here and read up on it. After doing that, you could probably change it yourself!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 7:00pm
Pete,
I talked to my dad this morning. He has no doubt he can do it, just he would like to call Eric and ask a few questions first. Its got 1600 hours, and never been apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 8:49pm
You have a Velvet drive so it takes a 26 tooth spline. The best out there is the Sachs plate.

sachs plate

Eric uses them and he should have one too. Trimming the OD on some of the smaller flywheels may be needed. My 302 needed it trimmed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 8:54pm
Stev,e it is a Chevy and tend to be a little harder on the damper plates because of torque lol, its probably due, Ive seen them go bad as early as 300 hours...it wont hurt
and, 74 with 1600 hours I would probably do more than a damper, thats from thinking while its out....just hate pulling them twice, and you do know about alignment I presume?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

and, 74 with 1600 hours I would probably do more than a damper, thats from thinking while its out....just hate pulling them twice, and you do know about alignment I presume?


I know that on this boat, as well as many others, the engine, tranny, and driveshaft are in a straight line, the shaft doesnt angle like my G-pas 89 because the engine on his sits level, not slanted back. What else would you have done? The fluid has been in for 5 years, and still a nice red color, no pink(signs of water) no fluid leaking from the seals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

You have a Velvet drive so it takes a 26 tooth spline. The best out there is the Sachs plate.

sachs plate

Eric uses them and he should have one too. Trimming the OD on some of the smaller flywheels may be needed. My 302 needed it trimmed.


Yes, I got the Borg Warner 1:1 71c Velvet drive. We might use it as is this season, and then in the fall, pull it out. Maybe rebuild the whole thing, or trade for a remanufactured one. Could it be a broken spring? If it is, that adds more load on the other 5. What makes the noise exactly?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 10:16pm
Chris,
A dampner with hours on it will have weak and somewhat collapsed springs. This creates play between the outer hub attached to the flywheel and the center splined hub that goes to the trans. At a low or rough idle, the springs will rattle the plates back and forth like " a drier with rocks in it"!! If a spring breaks, it will usually come out of the retainer and that would be a different noise. I threw a spring once!

You may have a hard time finding a reman engine the same as yours but rebuilding the existing is certainly a option.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 11:00pm
74Ski - I'm all thumbs & I was able to replace my damper plate in 1 afternoon. I wouldn't put if off if I were you. It's not a big job.

There are some threads here that will explain the procedure.

Just make sure & get it aligned to the trans shaft (tighten after assembly recommended).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2009 at 11:56pm
Thanks SNobsessed, and Pete And Eric. I will run it past my dad. We have been having some warm weather lately, maybe i can talk him into doing this early, and not have a problem in the middle of my Skiing season. Because....Slalom skiing is my life! I Dont want that interupted by a problem we knew about in advance. SO thanks guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2009 at 11:49am
Pete, FYI, they do offer a dampner, damper with the edge's already shaved off, i accidentlly ordered one and it showed up with the edges trimmed already, i believe it is a da-106a, no trimming necessary, i found this out late in the season...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2009 at 11:53am
now, now 74....would you let your engine oil go 5 years and not change it? if you pulled the dipstick on a propane burning engine it would be clean as the day you put it in and that doesnt necessarily mean that clean oil is good oil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2009 at 1:41pm
We didnt think anything of it, Because the oil still looks brand new, but its not like engine oil where it changes color from combustion. How often should it be changed? We change the Engine oil every fall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2009 at 10:17am
once a season wouldnt hurt, my comment about propane engines, the oil still wears and will be clean as the day you put it in, ask Kristof,
you still will get a touch of contamination in trans oil and it will loose its ability to lubricate after time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2009 at 10:07pm
okay, Yea well put. So five years is too long then...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2009 at 11:36pm
a touch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2009 at 4:19pm
i keep this rule: motor oil every 50 hours or 6 months, tranny fluid 100 hours or 1 year...
Getting that fluid is a pita with a manual pump...
Is there a more efficient non expensive tool to do the job?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2009 at 4:27pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

Getting that fluid is a pita with a manual pump...
Is there a more efficient non expensive tool to do the job?
Kapla


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