getting rid of motorized actuator for engine hatch

I've had mine out for about a year and just lift it and use a stick to prop it open.    I'll most likely replace it, but it just hasn't gotten to the top of the list so far. I wouldn't mind redoing it with some different hinges to get the acctuator out of the middle of the floor, I hate having to work around it since most of the maintenance items are on that side of the motor.

The offshore crowd have some cool looking lifts that lift from the hinges, but they're proud of them and it would require a lot of fab work to use them.   

this is my old redneck broomstick model...Al one is shiny and fan-cy

I used the stick method for a while, but went back to the actuator because the hatch is pretty heavy. I guess you could buy two large shocks. Let us know how it goes if you do. That other Nautique site has some discussion about this as well. Or you could go this route:

Hatch Upgrade

Maybe someone could recommend a replacement actuator. Maybe something like this:

Just a thought

When I purchased my boat the actuator was gone. I installed gas shocks. From NautiqueParts.com I ordered (2) gas shocks (p/n S1375) and (4) brackets (p/n 3737). It ended up costing me just over $60 and some patience.

I only have one picture. Sorry...

i had mine rebuilt locally. i did without it for a bit, but i actually like the motorized actuator.

jackkloepfer wrote: thanks, airfooter. that's what I'm going to shoot for. where did you mount the base of the shocks? (the side that is not attached to the hatch)

I mounted the bottom brackets to the fiberglass lip that the hatch rests on. To do this I had to drill two holes on the same surface that the pivot is on (see below in red - photo taken from nautiqueparts.com). The foot of the bracket went down so it wasn't in the way of the shock when it was retracted (you can probably find brackets without feet too). It took a little bit of playing around with the brackets and the shocks to figure out where the brackets would be best placed.

jackkloepfer wrote: thanks, Footer!

Adam

Back when I had my BFN, my actuator was painfully slow. To the point that I also removed and did the broomstick method. I want to say CC wanted something in the neighborhood of $1200 for a new one, which is laughable.
I never did replace it prior to selling the boat, but had found these guys, and I believe was the correct one; length, and stroke-wise, to do it. At about 10% of the cost from CC.

Firgelli actuators

I wanted to add a little more information to this thread. I purchased the two shocks and mounts recommended above. I made a few mistakes with placement, but overall this solution works very well. A couple things I learned:

1. I positioned the mount on the sundeck too close to the edge. It's okay to move it in a little so it will not interfere with the sundeck closing.

2. If you want the sundeck to not be as vertical move the mount on the boat towards the bow a little.

3. I just used some screws and a wood backing plate to mount. I may go back add something a little more permanent later. I feel the screws will eventually work their way loose over time. Time is always an issue with an 18 month old :)!

My wife made a vector file of the 99 SAN grahpics incase we need to replace in the future. She decided to make a screen print as well and made us a few shirts. Also added another photo from this Friday.

TX Foilhead wrote: Any problems with that staying closed on the trailer?

This was and still is a concern of mine as well. On my normal 5 minute drive to the lake, I haven't had a problem yet. If I'm towing a longer distance, I tie a rope across the hatch from grab rail to grab rail just to be safe.

I've been considering installing a latch similar to the one shown below so that I no longer have to worry about it. I am going to need to purchase a new skin for my rear hatch sometime in the near future, so I'm waiting until then to make the puchase. I'm curious too if others have added a latch of some sort....

TX Foilhead wrote: I do the rope thing already when I trailer it with no gas shocks. They make me nervous because I might get away with a llittle movement now but the shocks might make it open all the way.   My sun pad is fine so I'm not puting in a latch like that. I'm already somewhat tempted to make a walk though like a 230 when I do replace it so the last thing I need is an opportunity.

While cleaning the interior this weekend, I checked to see how much down pressure is on my rear hatch (created by the cylinders). I wrapped a rope around the furthest most point of the front of the hatch and used a fish scale. It took approximately 24lbs of force to lift the hatch free from its resting position. At approximately 14" open, the hatch will balance. After that, hang on because it's flying open! Just thought I'd pass this on if it helps....