Got Wood?

Welcome to the site John! You're on the right track as far as your first posting. We've got several Woody owners here and a few are regular posters so if you've got questions then fire away. Looks like you've been around since last Oct but welcome to CCFan!

Awesome! I've been reading the forum and cruising the site but just couldn't get the forum to accept me...till now.
Thanks for the nice welcome.

First question...would anyone have access to plans for these old boats? As I poke around under the floor boards I'm finding some strange looking support pieces and other pieces that will have to be replaced due to some minor rot. It would be nice to know how these boats were put together originally.

Welcome, You have got a very pretty boat there. I have seen it before. Looks to be quite original as much as I know. I don't claim that to be much. We will be working and reconditioning boats together as my son and I have a few old wooden Correct Crafts. They are iconic and works of art. Enjoy yours!

Yeah, that wire with the plug on it is from the stern light. Hard to see the wire I'm concerned with. The color of the wire matches the dirty floor! This wire is about 2 feet long and just ends. Can't see anything that looks like it anywhere else.

If anyone has pictures of their Atoms with the floors out, I'd love to see them to compare with what I've got. This is sooooo cool to hear from everyone!

As for tracing the wire...it's only two feet long. Goes nowhere.

Here's the framing issue I'm looking at: Similar but not as severe rot on the opposite side. This is the only place that was soft. There is a wad of fiberglass here, too. Evidence of a collision of some sort? There were no leaks in this area when we put in the water both times.

Yeah, the gusset is gone 'cuz I removed it. I assume that the bottom is screwed into the frame from the bottom side? A new gusset is being made from a piece of white oak.

That wire you pointed to is a bonding wire and probably went to the block. In theory same as a negative but don't use it as a negative wire source. There are two theory's of thought. Bond all metal in boat or bond none. So, either take it off all together, or attach it to the block and attach all metal in the boat to it, thru hulls,rudder etc. You may consider a shaft brush which helps protect shaft, prop nuts, and prop. Where it attaches in the photo protects the rudder and port.
Also bond the fuel tank. Just don't use it as a negative wire. This is more important in a salt water or brackish environment. However could be important in dirty water . It helps protect metal parts from stray electrical current ( galvanic corrosion ). Google galvanic corrosion, there are some good articles out there.

vernonfarmer wrote: Yeah, the gusset is gone 'cuz I removed it. I assume that the bottom is screwed into the frame from the bottom side? A new gusset is being made from a piece of white oak.

The solid wood would not be my first choice since the potential for splitting at a grain line. It is the most common failure on knee's. I suggest a plywood and a CPES treatment. Yes, White Oak is the first choice for boat framing! I suggest investigating the complete frame/hull before you get too far. 3M 5200 is my first choice for bedding.

Jamestown distributors has a good selection of silicone bronze. Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.

Oops, got trigger finger...

Here are a couple of links to things you may find interesting.

CCFan Thread


Photobucket site of his project

Project in North Carolina

captbob626 wrote: Jamestown distributors has a good selection of silicone bronze. Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.

John,
NEVER use stainless (even type 316) in wood boat building/restoration. It rusts!! Obviously capbob isn't informed!!

Wow! Good stuff on the links! Thanks.

Also, not my first boat project. I appreciate all the tips and keep 'em coming. CPES is my friend. Got the silicon bronze screw issue "nailed".
Will look closer at the frame to ply seams but they all seem tight with no gaps or cracks or movement of any kind. The bottom seems so smooth that I wonder if it hasn't been glassed!

While this is my first inboard, my first wood boat project was this 1959 Chetek lapstrake outboard. She's won several awards at ACBS shows and is a joy to cruise in.

Can't wait for the fuel economy of the 4 cycle Gray!

captbob626 wrote: Pete: Obviously you need to read the posts a little more carefully. After restoring several Chris Crafts and a Correct Craft I think I am somewhat informed . The post does recommend using silicone bronze screws.

Bob,
Sorry as my wording could have been better. My post was not directly aimed to yourself but rather a general warning to anyone thinking stainless screws were good for boat building. However, you need to be careful with your wording as well. This, makes it sound like stainless is OK if you can't afford the silicon bronze!

captbob626 wrote: Try to stay way from ss if your budget can afford silicone bronze.

dip wrote: Pete, What's the deal with the dashes in the Atom. I've seen some with this setup

A lot depended on the engine but even more of what CC had on hand!!

vernonfarmer wrote: I've seen vintage pictures of the Atom Skier with a tow ring just behind the front seat. How does that mount? And what about the aft lift ring...could that be used for a ski tow or am I asking to have my transom ripped off?

The optional pylon fastens at the keel and the bulkhead.

Yes, as a Atom owner/restorer I highly recommend not using the aft lifting ring for pulling. It simply is attached to an angle bolted to the transom frame.