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exhaust manifold

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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2009 at 2:35pm
just yanking your chain, the back half is blocked of because with the engine angle it helps with purging the system since it is a shade lower than the front half.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bsucics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2009 at 7:32pm
Maybe a stupid question, I just don't want to do it again. I got my gaskets from skidim. Does it matter which side up - the thin metal plate or the graphite backing? Anything to be careful of when tightening back down? I've seen conflicting advice regarding stainless bolts (too soft?) and use/don't use anti-seize. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bsucics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2009 at 7:38pm
also - use rtv or anything - or just the gasket itself?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2009 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by bsucics bsucics wrote:

also - use rtv or anything - or just the gasket itself?


If you got the nice graphite backed gaskets just tighten them down and go, those things seal up very nicely. Either side up will do

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcarbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2009 at 10:34pm
if his bolts didnt break, do you still suggest he use new ones?

What are the issues that could come up if the leak was "inside"?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2009 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by gcarbone gcarbone wrote:

if his bolts didnt break, do you still suggest he use new ones?

What are the issues that could come up if the leak was "inside"?


Yes on the new bolts preferably stainless. The cost of 8 bolts doesn't warrant taking a chance that the old ones aren't stretched.

Water to the exhaust side can make it's way back into the cylinders and then into the oil. In real bad cases, the thermal shock can warp valves. Water isn't good for the cylinder walls and rings ether!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 2:41am
Dan,

I see you're from Muncie. Where abouts?

I am originally from north of there, in the country near Hartford City.

Where do you go boating?
Craig
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 10:36am
it doesnt hurt to cross file the mating surfaces to get them nice and flat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 2:28pm
put a straight edge on the mating surfaces before you put them together if they are not flat, make them flat, with a file, belt sander, something
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcarbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 2:35pm
While smoothing out those surfaces, you should be really careful not to let any of the junk get into the manifold and risers right? Or does it not matter? Even though its on the exhaust side rather than intake, I assume its still important to keep real clean? any suggestions?

and what does WOT stand for? been driving me nuts all morning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 2:45pm
wide open throttle


stuffing a rage in the center exhaust gas port is all that is needed, it will get flushed out in the water jacket.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bsucics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 6:52pm
Craig - I'm right in town...take the boat up to Crooked Lake in Angola for the summer. What lake are you on?

Thanks for the help guys - got the surfaces cleaned up, new gaskets on and the new stainless bolts. Just tighten down firm, or is there a particular torque specification?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2009 at 11:24am
Still figuring out some good places to go. (fairly new to Columbus) Hardy lake is a really small reservoir south of me that we may hit up on the weekdays. We go to Dale Hollow several times a year as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bsucics Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2009 at 12:37pm
just fyi for future searches - pcm torque spec is 22-32 ft lbs (seems like a big range)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcarbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2009 at 9:14pm
What size bolts are needed?

Are they all the same size?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcarbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2009 at 12:23am
changed my riser gaskets this weekend and if it wasnt for a lack of new bolts, it would have been a 30 minute job. I gave the bolts a good soaking of PB and they came out without a hassle.


Bolts are 5/16 18 5.25 and 5/16 18 1.75 for 3.5" risers..four of each. Just a heads up for guys needing it...

But where the hell do you find stainless, especially for the long bolts? I checked 20 places probably before I ended up with bolts from DIM, which are NOT stainless but will have to do.

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