Correct prop size?

If you guys are curious what Delta had to say for our application:

"Engineering came back with the following reply:

If they are pulling loads (show ski teams, multiple skiers) such that they need a little extra power/torque, then I’d say Acme # 2160 --- 13.50 X 13.75 VR4B 1.00 .105Cup
Otherwise, I’d say # 1792 --- 13.50 X 14.25 VR4B 1.00 .105Cup

However, if they are getting a true 5000 RPM WOT on that GT 40 Engine with a good, new-like 1442, then it appears to me that the 1490 wouldn’t be out of the question.
Nevertheless, I still think the 2160 or 1792 is probably the better fit."

Both props were not on my radar but..........might have to give one a shot

You're right Tim...I was surprised they didn't just give the ole 422 tip and call it good.

You think those will run that high on the tach and lose top end? our ski friends have a 2007 206 with the GM 330hp and they run a 1598     13x14     0.080 cup     3 blade for pulling show ski stuff and that thing still runs like 50mph. Maybe just a super fast hull I guess, and it could be running 6500 on the tach I dunno lol

I'm not sure what to go with, for the normal dude though 422 all the way. I tell all my buddies just go 422 and call it a day, you'll love it but I'd like to stay with a bigger fan.

Rob, it's much more fun talking about it than it is doing and being done with it. Just go with it would ya? hahaha

Ok, I'll hush up. Will post what I decide on and share the data after.

WOW ....   I really opened a big can of worms here didn't I   LOL!    

My experience on other (boating) forums is there are several key areas that can spark quite a debate from just one simple question.   This is one of them.   

Perhaps I'll gravitate to the watersports section next and ask everyone's opinion on the best water ski   HA HA HA !

I suspect Correct craft hasn't done all the testing on the older hulls, acme props weren't available until 2001 or so. The NWZ in question was out of production 5+ years before that.

That 206 excal isn't going to run any better than 47 (assuming it has the gate up) even with a perfectly matched prop. The gauges are lying. That is almost certainly going to have a rev limiter which will hold down the revs and speed with the shorter 13x14. Even if it didn't, dropping 1.5"+ in pitch is going to result in nearly 600rpm higher revs. It was likely turning in he 4900 neighborhood with the stock 422 so yes, 5500rpm is going to be in the ballpark. That is well past the peak power (5k ish) point so yes, the boat will slow down. 3mph is what I saw with similar numbers on my NWZ, I can't imagine they're that far off with such a similar application. I bet it's not running any better than 44 if you put a gps on it.

PROPGUY wrote: I guess...lol..... im a pretty cut n dry guy...Well I hope my input helped. If you need a prop or repair let me know all I do is inboard props.... we do all the CC factory work.       Rob American Propeller

Rob,
What prop manufacturers do you handle?

Joseph,
When you get the props, check with us before you swap and try any of them out. We may be able to save you the trouble and time with any of the swaps.

Do you have a prop puller? Also lapping compound the lap the prop taper to the shaft taper?

I see 2 of you like the 1422 3 blade on NWZ hulls. Any noise issues?
I like your top speeds, how is the 33 mph Rpm if you don't mind and is the hole shot still good?
Tim I think you have an extra 50+ HP, what do you have Gun Driver?
My 95 is bone stock rated 310 hp.
The 224 I run impresses me for the hole shot but I can only compare to the OJ factory prop and the 4 blade OJ 14 16.

For lapping, get some valve grinding compound. Same stuff and available at auto supplies. The blue is optional and really only a good indicator of how well the tapers fit together. It's not used by tool makers that much anymore so you can get it at industrial on line supplies like McMaster Carr.

To remove my very tight propeller I used the puller, tightened it just as tight as I could and the prop did not pop off.   I then took a 2 lb ball pen hammer and gave the puller nut one good smack. Did not pop.
Next I took a 1 1/8 inch open end wrench, slid it down the prop shaft till it rested against my prop on the engine side of the prop. I smacked the wrench as hard as I could so it banged down on my prop. It popped off.   Hitting my wrench avoided denting my prop. They are not always easy.
When I first bought my boat it had issues to fix. When I pulled the first prop off I just removed the nut and slid off the prop. It was not seated at all.   It was also running on a bent prop shaft so maintenance was not their priority.

Don't beat on the prop with a hammer or wrench and hammer!!!! Just took my 540 off for a fellow CCF to try, it has been on for several years.
Put the puller on stopped prop from spinning with a block of wood between prop and trailer. Cranked prop puller on nice and tight, then took a propane torch (map gas works a little faster) heat the hub evenly and wait for the BANG and off she pops.

MrMcD wrote: .   A bad hit could obviously turn a good prop into junk.

Plus every time you smack it, is like using a slide hammer on the transmission output shaft.

Use one of these and like Pete said " hit the prop puller bolt"

"I" don't feel that a sharp rap on the bolt will transfer enough energy to damage the output bearing. jmo
So what method do you approve of and use??

8122pbrainard wrote: Would you take the spindle in your Bridgeport apart with a hammer and then reuse the same bearings?

I would hate to guess how many thousand or maybe hundred thousand times I have rapped the draw bar with the wrench to remove a collet from the spindle (original bearings) No other way to get it loose.
I guess some common sense is required when using the hammer method. One could always take the coupler on the shaft loose from the trans coupler if there was enough concern.