Weeding the Pumpkin patch

eric lavine wrote: oh yes, i have one but it creates to much damn dust..

You mean the spiral cut bit? Have you tried the zipmate attachment? I don't see how that would be worse than a skill saw...but I suppose I'm procrastinating anyway?!!?

my wife tried sending some pics, i dont know if they made them though, i might have to put them on a CD and mail it to you

on the way to work i was listening to Niel Young and thought for some strange reason that you are a Niel Young fan, the sawzall is probably your best bet, with a 12" fine blade, there is not much against the gunnels,so drill a hole near the sides and the blade of the sawzall will guide itself on the curve of the side of the hull....dont be afraid, once you start you will say this is easy    Eric

Well, I thought the krptonite joke would get a rise out of you...and I do like some of what Neil Young has done, especially with CSN&Y. I grew up with the hair bands and got a pretty good taste of the legends as well.

On to 'bidness' and speaking of old music, I cut out the 2 long sides of the floor to see "if there were any cooties in there"?!!?   

I didn't find any 'butta' or field mice, but it is a mess and a fertile ground for other assorted micro-organisms.

Seriously though, the closest thing to dry wood I saw was just forward of the pylon. The foam is not soaked, but it is wet along with all of the wood I've uncovered so far...and there is a lot more wood in this boat than I expected. Some of the wood is clearly rotten and some looks to have some structure left to it...maybe enough for a pattern?!!?

You guys were right about the sawzall..once I jumped in. I'll be spending tomorrow coming up with some boat stands. There's no way I'd find any around here...the dry stacks are full and so are the marina parking lots from the lake being down!

Wow, its crazy how different the BF is to the Ski, for being so similar in appearance on the water. It's tough to see in the pics exactly how the stringer system is laid out. Is there foam between the main and secondary stringer?

I wish I was still in the ATL area; I'd definately come up to check this out. Good luck with the project, I'll be following this thread for sure. I'm figuring this will be our winter project for 09.

How's Lanier doing anyway? I know it was probably the hardest hit in the SE. Our lakes have come up a tiny bit, but we're still a long way off from any resemblance of normal.

Well you finally took the leap. Wish I could come up and help too.

I know it looks bad but now you know what you are up against. Bet you wrestle it to the ground and beat it!

As always...keep them pictures coming.

john

jbear wrote: Wish I could come up and help too.

Volunteers are most welcome and enjoy the best of sounthern hospitality!

Greg, Here's where I stand on stringers. Keep in mind that they are only my opinions.

I really don't feel that CC (or any boat manufacturer) made a big effort to keep water out of the wood. I've seen bare wood (no glass). Screw holes drilled into the stringers for seats, engine mounts, etc. compromising any water barrier. I know that there isn't a true water barrier when it comes to solid wood but with the best process that wasn't done at the factory will provide at least 3 or 4 times the life.

I'm not yet convinced that a "drop in" composite is available that matches wood. The ones that are as strong as the wood are heavy.
I would stick with some nice clear fir. (no treated)

CPES is a great product that all wood should get a couple coats (end grain 3 or 4!) before it goes in the boat plus any holes drilled later need the CPES injected in them. It has become one of the favorite tools of the wood boat builder/restorer. 5200 on the screws/bolts at finial assembly.

Epoxy isn't hygroscopic like the polester resin the factory used so it is a must for the complete project. The polester over time will slowly allow water to get to the wood.

I don't care for the fiberglass floor skins. People jumping in the boat and with the foam support degrading with time will cause it to fracture allowing water to get in the outside areas of the bilge. CPES then epoxy coated ply is my choice.

If you foam, I prefer the injection method over the pour in. Injection foam self skins on the outside providing a water barrier. With pour or spray in, you always end up cutting the tops off opening up the cells in the foam. I know that it is a closed cell foam but feel it makes a difference. Carefull sealing the injection points with epoxy is important.

If you don't foam and add more foam for bouyancy say under the decks and gunnels, then provide drainage on the bottom edges of the stringers.

I'm going to try to find the thread about new stringers/floor that someone did that was really damn close to the exact process I'm describing. I remember him even using temporary screws to hold the ply down until the epoxy he used to bond it down cured. Then removed the screws and injected the holes. I can't remember who it was but I was impressed. I'll come back in and provide a link when I find it.

Edit: Greg, it's in this thread but I didn't read that he presealed the ply with CPES - important! He did use pour foam but with the injected, there is less waste. You only inject as much as is needed and don't need to mix too much like with the A-B foam.
ply floor

Pete, if you're using CPES, do you really need to coat with epoxy? Might that hold water in the wood and not let it breath? My brother's 1980 Resorter has wood framing below the floor that is painted or covered with something that is flat black. It is not encapsulated with any type of resin and there are no rotting problems, even after 27 years. I'm assuming they used some kind of treament on the wood.

My 88 Malibu Skier has all the wood covered with resin, and I have replaced all the seat frames and part of the floor, and have been babying the area under the rear seat for about 10 years with Git Rot.

I'm still in the planning phase for the Mustang, but lately been wondering about not using resin.

That's a great shot. Steve's friend is sure going to town on that boat. Century were really well made. That pic will help me with the framing of my boat as I'm going foamless.

Chris,

8122pbrainard wrote: If you don't foam and add more foam for bouyancy say under the decks and gunnels, then provide drainage on the bottom edges of the stringers.

With everything glassed and the drainage, water won't be a problem.

Joe, Just wondering about the summer camp failures. Rough service to say the least!! The ply that failed, did you just resin coat it? With polyester or epoxy? Any CPES? Did it rot or delaminate?

I certainly agree with you that the Coosa board is a excellant product. It's just more money!!

I think the only cure for a heavily used boat is maybe the rino lining type products applied then carpeting over it.

Greg, I notice at the bottem of the stands that you didnt round the corners, so i am going to give you a b minus on them   lol
Insanity is a fine line

Greg, You have crossed that fine line on this one!!!!!