water behind a stringer

Bruce, Mike, I posted the steering cable info on here a while back- if you havent ordered yet, DONT!

The pre-1982 (2001 hull) steering cables are NOT CC-specific. The older boats dont use the oddball length or longer throw versions that the newer CC's do. I confirmed this with 2 different CC dealers. Its a generic Teleflex cable- I believe I used a 16' or 17' for my Tique (I posted the info on here somewhere). The cable cost me about $95 from Go2marine.com. You'll probably need the clevis kit to attach to the rudder as well- which go2marine also stocks for ~$25. If you dont have one, Im sure they carry the clamp tube too.

Great info Tim, thanks. I saved the old cable, so I'll measure it and check them out.

Over the weekend, I finished fairing out the bilge. Which I totally sucked at doing. Got the battery mount figured out, and mostly installed. Sanded out the bilge, and laid one coat of BilgeKote down. I will get a couple pics taken this week.

I probably could have just ground down a rough spots and painted it. I chose to fair, which, now that I get what to and not to do, I would do a better job. The first third I mixed properly and it laid out nicely. But I was suddenly out of epoxy. I did the next part all at once, and that was my downfall. I made too much and it was starting to go off by the time I was 3/4 done. Then, to fill the edges I simply thickened with the 410, and attempted to "paint" it in the corners. Well, this does not sand out nearly as well as the properly mixed peanut butter consistency. Then add to it that I am a bit more of a rough in guy than a finish work guy, and it definitely could have turned out better. Live and learn, I guess. Most of it sanded out, and will be fine now that I painted it. I have one more coat to do and it will look great.

For the most part, I would be the former.

Practice makes perfect, I guess. I will have learned a ton on this boat. I am having a lot of fun, too.
I am helping do a 65 Sportsman 17 next winter, and the winter after considering a total redo on my 68 Nautique.

The bilge looks great.

On your battery box placement, do you think you'll be able to remove the battery without removing the seats? I'm going to locate forward of the seats. I've got to figure out how to frame it.

Mike, here is how I did my battery box cover. Just drill a hole big enough to let a 1/4"x 2" carriage bolt slide thru and put a washer and locking nut on. Use your fingernails to pull the bolt out to grab on to so you can remove cover.

Good idea Gary. I like the looks of that.

Mike, does your boat have the floor pan? Had your floor been replaced before? There's old resin on the sides of the hull. You did a better job than I did with your cuts on the longitudinal stringers. Nice fit.

Gary, What happened to the SS part of your boat?

Did you ever get a floor pan?

I got my angle iron trans mount plates this afternoon from my welder buddy. They are approx 6 inches long, 5 inches high, and 3.5 inches deep. They are in a sort of "L" shape and made of steel. They will be mounted on the inside of the stringers with the bottom of the "L" perpendicular to the stinger and I will bolt my trunion mounts to them along that bottom piece. I have a couple questions about prepping them for installation:

What should I prime them with, and secondly paint them with?

I am going to either lag them to the stinger or, possibly thru-bolt them. (I have not decided) I plan to also eopxy the backs of them to the stinger with the peanut butter. Should I leave the back clean, or sand, or primer that as well? Seems I should leave it raw steel, but I do not know. I want the best adhesion possible, obviously.

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks

Mike

paint or coat then attach with 3m 5200. epoxy and bare metal won't play well together forever I fear.

When I got the boat 20 yrs ago Bruce,it was in real bad shape as you can see in my profile.The center consol was gone and there was a big gaping hole in the floor pan where it went. A morse control installed very poorly and an all black interior rounded out the package. Correct Craft sent me a copy of the brochure like below-http://www.correctcraftfan.com/reference/1968_brochure/index.asp?page=05
The problem with that was,my gauges were mounted in the dash and not the consol and they looked to be well done,not butchered like every thing else. Later found out my boat was built in 12-68 so was more or less like a 69,like this-
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=193&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970

Still working on a floor pan,I've got my eye on a boat here that would be good for parts,but they want way too much for it,it's at a broker so I don't know if they want to deal yet.I'm thinking of going down sometime this winter with cash in hand and see what happens.
Don't know if you saw what I found out from the Godfather but in their records it's not listed as a SS. All records are hand written and they must have left off the ss part. The serial tag in the boat says MSS 2567, their records have it listed M 2567.

Mike, my passenger seat was in bad shape so I made the bench and had uprights welded onto the bottom frame for the seat back.If I had to do it again I would have repaired it instead since now days no one likes to sit backwards. Yours is looking nice Mike,you seem to be making great progress. I wonder why each boat is different, yours has one thru hull for the water intake, mine has two.

I am planning on using 3/4 so maybe I do not need the blocks, only one of them even moves now anyway.
Gary, what motor? My Mustang has a 289 Interceptor w/ a single inlet, however the 68 Nautique I just picked up has a Chrysler 318 with two water intakes, and I am assuming, two impellers and they connect together after that.

Today I worked on my trans mount brackets, I had to drill holes to mount to the inside of the stringer, and to mount the trunion assemblies. I am, in fact, going to get them powdercoated, thanks for the suggestion, guys!







I replaced my shaft hose, reinstalled my shaft, replaced the packing, and put the collar on. For some reason, SkiDIM sent me 1.5" fuel hose when I ordered the replacement hose, and it was an absolute biatch to get on there. Being stubborn and a holiday, I just used it, instead of waiting and getting something a little more workable. There is room for two clamps on each side, so I am good, I believe.
I put the clamp block in. And epoxied my drain holes in the stringers.



I decided I was not so pleased with where I was going to put my battery box after seeing where Gary's is, and I am going to move it forward to that spot. I just need to fix in a little frame, and that will be done.



I put a PVC tube for the cables. Despite what some said about not bothering, I like the idea of the tube for ease of running the cables and such through there.



My pylon is a little right leaning so I will need to ream the mounting hole a little on the left side. I musta had some BilgeKote fumes in the head when I looked the first time. Will be an easy fix.

Here is the hoist Zman borrowed me to re-install my motor, cause opening the door and using my tractor this time of year is way, WAY too cold.



Hope everyone had a great New Years !!!

Mike

Old hose was in terrible shape, and I suspect was leaking a little. It was starting to come apart in layers. Mine was glassed in a bit too, but it wasn't that bad to get out. I cleaned the glass up a bit around it afterwards.
On the drains, I winged it. I looked for what appeared to be the lowest point still in the bilge and accessible for the front. Just eyeballed the rearward ones. I figured if an exhaust pipe ever cuts loose on me that would be a good point to drain water from. Drilled from the inside slightly angling upwards with a 15/16" spade bit. The wood that I went through was like new.