’83 "2001" New Problems

I checked my timing today with a light. Idle was right at 10-11 BTDC, and at 3K it as 30-31 BTDC. I think the timing is good.

My best bet as to the culprit is the lousy plug wires. the new ones should be here Tuesday, so I'll let yall know. When I was checking to see if all the cylinders were firing, I noticed that #7 and #8 made the smallest difference in running as well as shocking the hell out of my hands through the insulation.

Peace

A little trick to setting timing and dwell without any backfires. Backfires can cost $$$$, ruin the carb, and isnt good for the engine, its like dropping a M80 firecraker in the carb and lighting it. I remove the fuel line from the carb, cap it off, then run the engine out of gas. I then change the points and condenser and sometimes stip the whole distributor if it needs cleaning. Put it all back together, then crank the engine over and set the dwell. Then take the timing light and set the timing in the same manner. Then hook up the fuel line and she should start right up. Final tweaking can then be done but it gets you so dam close it isnt funny!!
Also about the direct 12v bypass for the coil when starting is correct. The wire usually says "AUX" which hooks to the AUX terminal on the alternator on PCM engines. Its a diode stack and when it fails (shorts out) you wont be able to shut the engine off with the key. If it fails (opens up) then your engine wont start until after the key is released while its still spinning (no spark during cranking).
Also be careful not to use automotive plug wires in boats with points. Most wires sold today for autos are for high energy ignition (HEI) and use carbon as a conductor. Older boat wires are not carbon, but solid copper center resistor wire. This is alot lower in resistance than carbon. They dont run solid copper (no resistance) because the no one within a 1/2 mile would be able to watch TV or listen to a radio.

Hey billgatesceo, as far as I know they are still copper wires. I made my own to the exact length by purchasing a roll of wire, boots and crimp ends. I achieved a factory look since pre-made wires never seem to be exactly the same length as original. Anyway, now I will answer your question about direct 12v to the coil when starting. Your idea would work, but you would need a hefty diode in series with the output of the starter solenoid, or a single pole single throw normally open relay with the relay coil tied to the starter solenoid output and feeding your own supply of +12v to the contacts. The reason being is that everything is fine while cranking but when the key is in the "ON" position, the ballast resistor will try to backfeed to the starter and either cook the resistor or blow a fuse. You would get such a huge voltage drop in that line trying to run the starter that the engine will die when the key is released. Also for reference, never crank the engine with no spark plugs, wires. dist cap, rotor, etc. This will ruin the coil. Coils of that voltage extreme need a place for the juice to go. If it cant go anywhere, its likely to flash internally causing the coil to eventually fail. Coil manufacturers love this! Coils dont fail often on their own. Our 74 mustang 17 we have had since new has over 1000 hrs, and the coil is original and still strong. If your gonna turn the engine over pull the coil plug wire and run a clip lead from the coil high voltage output to ground. Hope this all helps out!!!!

Took her out today...she ran like a top. After we emptied about 1100lbs of water out I took her for a spin right before loading it up on the trailer. She ran up the 43mph turning about 4100rpm. No misses, nothing. When we were boarding, I could hammer on the throttle, and she jumped right out of the hole.

Thanks for all the help guys..now I can enjoy it and not worry about it running right. Plus, if it does start to run crappy, I have a much better know how on all the systems.

Now on to the cosmetics. Oven cleaning, all the stripes off and a full buff and polish. Then onto the floors, and carpet.

I must say, this thing throws a sick wake when loaded up. There were some SAN out today, and the wake was almost on par.

Come find me in the General Discussion section, as I will soon start a thread on the buffing progress.

Cheers,
Brandon

Yeah...I wouldn't worry too much about selling my tools. I should post a pic of my tool box that I will always carry with me in the boat. Plus I have an old '90 300ZX and a slightly newer Caddy Deville that I always have to work on (timing belt, A/C) etc. I've always liked working on engines and eventhough have had no formal training...the web is an invaluable resource.

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