Coupler Removal and Install |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <123 |
Author | |
8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Travis,
What will happen with that loose fit is the coupling and shaft will fret. The fretting will get worse and worse, to the point where it will even pound out the points of the set screws. Those set screws by the way are in there as a safety. I have seen the fit get so bad that when the boat was put in reverse, the prop shaft and prop went back and hit the rudder. A spit coupling is certainly a good option. The other option many have gone to is a double taper shaft. Bothe ends have the taper so both the prop and coupling are solidly held on with the tapers. That option is more money but, the option also makes it easy to remove the coupling easily. |
|
![]() |
|
KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11214 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The number I've been told ( by an old machinist} is .0005 inches per inch of shaft size for an interference fit when the shaft has a keyway and key for the coupling. (like this shaft for an inboard) I figure there are a variety of numbers used by different people for all kinds of different applications Even a split coupling should be a very light press fit on the shaft, or in other words you don't slide it on with a couple thousandths clearance and expect to be able to tighten the bolts and have it hold very good. This is from a guy that does his hack jobs in the backyard, maybe a real Machinist like Duane will add some info about this ![]() |
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <123 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |