83 New Stringers & Floor

jterr wrote: Before I start cutting everything out of transom is there a easy way to check the wood areas covered in glass without just cutting them out??

use a small hole saw to remove part of the skin in few locations to check the shape of the wood behind, if it was dry and happy you can just patch later, but the pieces that have holes in them for things like exhaust hoses or brackets are likely compromised... but cant hurt to check.

cut it all out and replace including the ruder block. I made my rudder block out of coosa and ran to the back to cure the dip in the hull behind the rudder that holds water.   
I didn't use backer for exhaust nor the platform, simply laid some 1808 there . Bolted exhaust instead of screws. I also did run floor all the way to the back so was also able to bolt the platform instead of screws. all sealed with 5200. Lifting ring bracket got a coosa backer with glass

You didn't go though...probably not a worry. Once you start glassing you can sand a little around the cut, acetone the area, fill with thickened epoxy and throw some glass over it. Sand it smooth (if you need to) and done.

Results of Compression test;-118-117-112-119-120-120-118-118

Pretty good for cold numbers.   Interested to see how they change when hot.    

No

Leaning back towards the Coosa board for stringers...HELP

shierh wrote: You can template the old stringers with paper and cardboard.   You mainly want hull contour.   You may also want to make some cross member jigs across the gunnel and measure the height to top of the old stringers where the engine sits and the deck.   Some adjustments may need to be made if you use coosa for the deck as I did, , the top of the stringers will have to be lowered to to allow the deck to be the same height when installed.   Making the stringers an exact match is not that critical.   The engine mounts are adjustable so if you are off some then so what.   Engine cradle will only mount one way with ski pylon installed. Fits into the mount in the floor. Top of stringer is basically notched to allow for thickness of the cradle. Calculate the amount of glass that will wrapped over the top of the stringer. Recommend 2 layers of 1808 which will be 3/16 or so with resin.    You can also lay up some chop strand mat on the old stringers to make a temporary repair so that when you cut them out they will not fall apart thereby making a template, wish I would have done this.   Also I did not block the hull when I took them out which was a mistake.    I do recommend taking them out and replacing one at a time to help hull maintain form.

Great info
Thanks

3/4 coosa Blue water series for stringers. its pricy.   
you sandwich it together with chop strand mat in between. stager the joints.   

outside stringers are one piece and simply join together with mat material.

you can use half inch on floor and lay up 1708 on top.     I used 3/4 on the floor. Again a little over kill.

Going to take 4 sheets to do the job, stuff is pricy unless you have a source.   I was fortunate to have a friend at CC factory that could sell to me what he paid for it.

You are going to need 30 feet of 1808 and about 30 feet of 1708 glass, 48" wide I think.

I used 25 gallons of ame 6000 resin, again I went overboard. Likely 20 gallons would have been sufficient.   

Guys here have used less material than I did and had a very good result and also made boat slightly lighter, I made my heavier by 100 lbs or so at least I think. One day ill weight it

jterr wrote: Question on the rear transom hanger. It looked as if were 2 pieces of plywood where the angle was attached. Should I just glue the 2 pieces together then glass over or use glass between? Also should there be glass between hull and pywood ..

John,
I'd suggest a mat between the wood and the glass. This will fill any irregularities/gaps between the two. Also between layers of wood, I'd suggest a layer of glass and resin. Besides it bonding the wood together, it will add strength.

Transom is curved, you need to shape the backer to the curve of the hull the best you can.   use chop strand to assist bonding it to hull and reduce or eliminate any air gaps
bevel the face edges to the hull so that when you lay the sheet of bi ax to it and overlap to the hull it will also not have any air gaps.
Not sure why you need double plank as a backer for the bracket though it could be to help center the hole in the bracket with the lifting ring.   May need some adjustment as you go such as putting shim behind the angle bracket to help align it.   Get some pvc board from home depot to make shims with etc. easy to grind down.

Sorry I don't have any photos of the final product but what is can remember is that I laid up double sheets over both backers and lapped them over each other and I believe I overlapped the sides of the lifting plat backer 10" each side with on sheet and 6 with second one.     

shierh wrote: I added glass to the center to even out the transom then put the coosa backer.    I also made the rudder backer plat all the way to the transom to eliminate the pocket were water use to sit.    I did lay up 1808 over bother backers and tied them together which I admit was way over kill and added lbs to the thing.     I did however do a considerable amount of grinding before I put the stuff in place and did remove original layup glass so I did replace what I took away but did it quite overkill.

So I don't have to go to the floor on the lift bracket, and if I need to do rudder part how do you repair that? I doubt I will be able to afford all that Coosa, what is down there-Plywood??

Not as simple as it sounds.

1   Block up the back very solidly (after it is raised) as it will tend to move around some.

2 Jack it up under the keel board and move trailer forward till the crossmember contacts
     the jack.   Then use another jack to re-support the keel as far forward as you can and
      then remove the first keel jack and move trailer forward. Kinda of a leap frog type deal
      Repeat 2 till you are clear

Be very careful as it is heavy and dangerous

SNobsessed wrote: It is not hard to get off trailer. I lowered tongue to floor, then placed concrete blocks (holes up) with 2x4 & carpet pads at stern corners. Then raise bow as much as you can, I used floor jack to get extra high. Then you can support keel with blocks, stand or jack. Level trailer, then boat weight will be off trailer. You will need to move keel support several times.   Just have redundant support & you will be fine.

Taking it off the trailer is a pretty good idea generally if for no other reason than the trailer supports the boat under the stringers and when there are no stringers that is a lousy place to support a boat. Putting it lower to the ground is a laudable goal but adds a few steps on the removal and when you put it back on.

I have used the method above many many times, if you have concrete under the boat and a decent cherry picker (rolling engine lift) then you can do this in a couple minutes.

Tongue to the ground cyinder blocks topped with 4x4s under under the stern, then use the cherry picker to lift the front of the boat by the lifting ring. At that point you can pull the trailer out by hand as far as possible till the wheel gets to the legs of the picker.   Plop some blocks down to support the keel just in front of the fins while you lower the picker and replace it behind the wheels.   lift the boat with the picker by the front ring again and walk the trailer the rest of the way out.    Replace the front blocks and you are good to go. You can then use the picker to alternately lift the back and front rings and take out blocks as required to get a height you desire.

Whatever you do I prefer to pull the trailer out by hand as you can pretty easily with a truck not notice that you are pulling the boat off the blocks.

AS ALWAYS - Try not to Die - or wreck your gelcote...