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Topic ClosedAlignment

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Darrel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2007 at 8:24pm
Ace, the year does not matter, its still done the same way. .003 is a thin blade.
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acedizzle916 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 3:37am
my motor mounts don't look like the ones in the picture he posted at all. it's late now, but i'll take a picture of them in the morning and post them tomorrow and maybe someone can clue me in on how to adjust the motor side to side. i loosened everything i thought was holding it from moving side to side and got my brother to try moving it with a long prybar, but it looked as though the motor mount bolts would break off before the motor budged at all so i gave up and figured i must have been doing it wrong. took the boat out today though to make sure everything else was running. how bad is it to run the boat out of alignment temporarily until i figure out how to get it just right?
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 7:49am
if your out .004 you can temporarily, any further you may do damage. id really try to get it straightened out. take some pics and we;ll try to figure it out for you
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 1:21pm


this is my 83 ski nautique.

heres a picture of the trans and shaft and mounts.
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acedizzle916 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 1:26pm
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Darrel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 2:35pm
Did you loosen them on both sides, front and back? Try some PB Blaster to loosen 'em up a bit and get a bigger pry bar. Bad idea to run the boat when out of alignment like Eric said.
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acedizzle916 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 8:35pm
i don't know what PB Blaster is, but i tried using a couple different compounds on them, and the prybar i used was huge already. i made an appointment with west coast correct craft to have them align it next month, but i still don't see how they are going to be able to.   what is PB Blaster and where can i find it?
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michigan dave View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2007 at 10:49pm
I just went through this same deal. I had the engine out for bilge work so I had already lubed up the motor mount slides, it still would not budge side to side. I put a small jack between the trans and the stringer and applied some presure, then was able to slide it over and tighten it down. Dont give up!!!

dave
1984 Fish Nautique
351ci- 14x13 four blade acme
south haven mi.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2007 at 8:44am
some times they rust in place and are a real pita to remove, it sounds like if you can't move them side to side, i will remove 1 at a time and cabinet blast them and never seize them, but are you capable of this? heat from a mapp gas torch will also possibly break them loose but now your in a gray area with open flame. what are your alignment readings now?
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Munday View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2007 at 10:13am
What I have done is place a jack under exhaust manifold to remove presure from mount and remove,then like Eric says clean them up so they are working easily.Also the rubbers in the mount should be straight up no bind when you get everything lined up,that will make the best vibration free alignment.

Munday
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2007 at 12:09pm
they are so much easier once you clean them and lube them, they will practically move effortlessly once you do this, take the extra time to get your alignment correct, it will save you in the long run and your boat will perform that much better
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2007 at 8:52am
great topic, thanks for the pics.
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behindpropeller View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2007 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by LakeHoliday LakeHoliday wrote:

Eric,

Page 27 of the Borg Warner Velvet Drive Installation Manual (the Reference section of this site is awesome!) states the Propeller and Output Shaft Alignment should be checked anytime the propeller strikes a heavy object and also after the boat has been lifted by a hoist or moved on a trailer.

Does everyone here check their alignment everytime they trailer their boats somewhere? I'll be bringing home a Mustang hopefully soon (about 300+ miles). Should I check the alignment before putting it on the lake?

Thanks,
Brice


I check my alignment every spring. Once it has sat on the lift for a couple weeks I check it, this year it gets checked twice since the trans was out. Everybody says how smooth my boat runs. Its 21 years old now too.

To get it to slide side to side use your 1 1/8" wrench to move it instead of a pri-bar. The wrench over the mount will distribute the forces more evenly.

Tim
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2007 at 1:32pm
Thats a tough question to answer, but my take is once a year is fine or when you hit an object, Correct Craft hulls are built so rigid and the shortness of the boats i dont believe it is necessary to align it every time you trailer it, I believe the Borg Warner manual says to do this for liabilities and warranties and aim more towards larger boats that get trailored such as in the 25 foot and up range and thinner constructed hulls. would i check it more than once a year....no, but...i would check it
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2007 at 5:40pm
CC manual states in the check list section, that alignment should be checked once a year as Eric has said before.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2007 at 1:42am
Eric...great topic!

I had the engine out for a rear seal and figured I would clean and lube the the mounts.They were a bit tight due to rust...PB and a crow bar...now they side easily.

The prop now turns evenly with the one finger pull!

Thanks for the post!
stang



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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2007 at 9:23am
load = loss of horsepower and gas... you added years of life to that trans Stang
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2007 at 1:11pm
It's been alive a long time and I won't mind keeping it for a while longer!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2007 at 11:49am
Thought I would mention this to see if it makes sense!
Before getting the alignment right...I had a tad bit of an Idle issue when dropping it into gear...it would almost want to die unless I bumped the throttle up a bit (or have to set idle speed another 100 rpms up).I like to see 600 rpms when engaged. I figure there was enough resistance to effect it. It now it idles right where it sould with no stumble!!! Smooth as butter.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-06-2007 at 10:13am
thats not imagination, it was loaded up and you removed the load, it makes alot of sense...its a great example of why alignment is so important
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baumanmt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2008 at 3:56am
Thanks guys, great post-I am a new CC owner and had no idea of this important issue. I will be checking my new 1984 SN 2001 before taking it to the lake. A 1700.00 repair would end my boating season pretty quickly. Thanks again-great pics
gb842001
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2008 at 12:40pm
why thank you for the compliment on the topic, just trying to save you a trans rebuild, it could be costly. Eric
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 2:59pm
Hey Eric, When I check this with the feeler gauge, do I want it to all be at .003, should it just be equal all the way around regardless of the gap
gb842001
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by baumanmt baumanmt wrote:

Hey Eric, When I check this with the feeler gauge, do I want it to all be at .003, should it just be equal all the way around regardless of the gap


Greg, I feel you have missed the basic idea of alignment. You want the engines crank shaft on the same centerline as the prop shaft. It's like your arm straight out and not bent at the elbow. When using the feller gauge between the coupling halves, you are checking to see if the faces are parallel or the crank shaft and prop shaft are on that same center line. The .003" is the max out of parallel you want the coupling faces. Don't worry, Eric can be confusing at times!!! At least you unbolted the coupling halves because there was a post the other day on another site that the boat owner was trying to get a .003 feeler between the halves without unbolting. Since he couldn't, he thought his alignment was good!

Hope I've helped, and welcome.


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baumanmt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 4:18pm
Thanks Pete(?) I think I'm on the same page,,,,,,,,,,so the gap can be what ever it is it just cant vary more than .003, I still feel that if it was not off by .003, that would be ideal, but is that asking for to much?
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 6:43pm
shoot for zero all the way around, the spec is .003 or less on 2 parallel faces, this is what you are trying to achieve, it is a bit confusing and i do it all the time and expect everyone to jump in and understand it but sometimes i get ahead of myself because i do it all the time and think everyone should understand it.....try explaining it on the phone to someone...

if you did have .003 at the 3,6,9, and 12 o'clock position then that would be perfect because you've achieved .000 clearance...if that helps any.
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 6:59pm
overall on transmissions i see about 20 to 25% problems created from mis-alignment,
here are some of the problems caused:
1. horsepower loss, due to excessive load
2. excessive heat in the trans, from load
3. vibrations
4. case wear
5. major planetarty failure, with it goes many other hard parts inside the trans
6. it causes drum failure on the PCM transmissions, (hairline cracks)
7. breaks the oil down quicker due to the heat
8. more gas useage due to extra load
9. srut bearing wear
10. shaft wear
11. coupling wear

as you can see why this this should be included in your yearly ritual, preferably after winter lay-up, i always stress alignment and it will always be as important as changing your engine oil

mis-alignment is the equivalant to running your engine 2 qts low all summer long....
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baumanmt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2008 at 11:25pm
Thanks Eric, the 3,9,6,12 o'clock does help, I was on the right page, I think I just worded it weird. Thanks again, when I tear in I'll post how it went. Thanks 842001
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2008 at 2:41pm
Hey Guys- I've yet to dive into allignment just yet, but it is coming up on my list, so here is a pic of my set-up. My question is- do I take out the 4 bolts plus loosen up the 2 set screws with the safety wire on them?
gb842001
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2008 at 2:47pm
Loosen the 4 bolts, not the set screws. Be sure that the coupling faces actually seperate.
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