Show me your garage

Since your GC has the connections, get him to slip in a home addition permit while he is there!

8122pbrainard wrote: The contract was let out Sunday. This step number one was yesterday!! And, the contrator does have the correct set of prints!!!

FINALLY a picture. We better be seeing some more. By "correct" plans you do mean the ones with all the cool stuff quinner added for you..right?

john

BTW: Very nice to talk to ya a couple nights ago.

Now THATS what I'm talking about!!!

john

C-Bass wrote: Pete, I prefer to put it in right away, for obvious reasons, long and hard get it placed in there pretty confident. I'm going to wrap it up, a health inspection to make sure that I'm not in septic.

With construction projects there always seems to be problems especially when you're not around to keep a eye on things. I got a phone call from my neighbor up there today (a Milwaukee resident). He wasn't too happy to say the least. Over Christmas I had cleared the project with him regarding the concrete pour 5' from his property line. The contractor had informed me that the concrete trucks shoots would be able to reach that wall leaving only about 10' in the middle. This 10' they would haul in with the Bobcat bucket. Well that's not what happened. They drove the concrete truck out onto my neighbors yard. Not only did they do that but they drove the trucks up his driveway and then out onto his yard!! I'll know more when I get up there Thursday but evidently there are some rather deep ruts plus possible damage to a French drain for the neighbors garage floor drains.

At least the footings and foundation walls are poured!

Dang... I would imagine he's PO'd. Hopefully it's not going to cost you lots of $$$ to rectify the situation.

Well, the neighbors French drain was undamaged and the "ruts" turned out to be depressions about 1" deep 10" long and only on one area. He's calmed down and I'm relieved!!

Ready for the plumber rough in and some CMU's (concrete block) 1 or 2 courses depending on the grade.



It's good I got the garden hose out and did some HD soaking. For some reason the contractors up there think all you need to do is run the dozer around and then the plate compactor and it will take care of 40" of sand!!!   

jet ski for pulling the tube?

must hurt having the Atom outside.

john

I have a PWC similar to yours. My Mom bought it for my Dad, and I get to store and maintain it. His is a Yamaha, and it needs plugs about every year. I cant tell what type yours is, but "mine" is a four stroke and has a dry sump, and oil sometimes gets up into the air cleaner box and fouls up the air cleaner and probably the plugs. Once I cleaned it out, it ran like new again.

Garage is looking good!

Chris,
Not sure about up there, but around here floor drains are getting to be a PITA.... Enviromental issues with gas/oil potential going into it.   

AND , YES ... it is a great property...Pam and I were fortunate enough to be able to visit them one afternoon last summer.

79nautique wrote: I don't see a floor drain for that concrete floor

Typically in a garage a triple basin is required between the drain(s) and the sewer/septic to seperate grease/oil. Bottom line is you can have drain(s) it's just a bit more expense then a drain and some PVC.

Pete,

That's exciting, looking forward to seeing more progress pictures along the way.

I don't have any shop pictures that would really show any progress. The new septic and field is in and connected up to the house. The plumber will now finish off the shop rough in, move on to the in floor hydronic and then the floor gets poured. Maybe this coming week?

I received all the fittings and ductwork for the dust collection system. I figured it would be a good idea to lay them out on the floor just to double check I have all the sizes and quantities before I get up there and find a error. There's no running to the hardware or home center for spiral ducting or fittings like lateral T's on a taper!! I ended up with a extra 5" 45 degree elbow, missed 5" couplings but got the 7",6" and 4" couplings. They can be cut out of the spiral duct but I'll just order some to lessen my work up there.

Fittings less spiral duct:


Way back I had mentioned that the plan was to have all my equipment in the center of the shop on mobile bases. Other equipment that can't be put on a mobile base (like a floor mounted drill press) will be along the wall. This gives me the flexibility to gain room by moving equipment off to the side when not in use. The problem came up with what to do with the dust collector drops from the attic down into the shop. I wanted to be able to disconnect the duct drop at the ceiling and move it off to the side along with the equipment. Quick disconnects are available but they are ether cheap plastic or snap latching requiring you to get up on a ladder.

Here's my version of the drop duct with handles mounted at the bottom. Flex will run from it to each piece of equipment (quick connect on top is out of view):


Here's what I came up with for the quick connect mounted directly on the blast gate at the ceiling:


The seal is the rubber bulbous seal version of the snap on "edge guard". (McMaster!!) The blast gate will be opened/closed with a slotted end broom stick. Then locked in place with the same broom stick with the thumb screw.

Roger,
It's covered! Besides the quick connects on the ceiling, I'll have 3 drops out of the attic on 3 of the walls. 2 go to floor sweeps and branch laterals reduced to 3" with 3" blast gates. They are the vacuum hose/accessory ports. You can't get it all with the direct connect! I'd have to say the worst is the lathe! The other wall drop is a 4 and a 3 serving a chop saw and a sander. I feel the nice thing about these quick disconnects is going to be you can plug pretty much anything in. (within size limitations) I have one port overhead near the boat bay for vacuuming out the hull/frame I happen to be working on at the time.

BTW, I test fit some of the fittings. Not too bad so far. Tight yes but I found a small strip of metal shim stock placed inside the female end will guide the male end even if there's a slight out of round.

The boat restoration may have to wait for awhile. The first project planned will be all the millwork, staircases, balusters, railings and maybe even the flooring for the house. I have a source for local Red Pine. He'd cut it, resaw and air dry it for me. I've got to get going on it putting together a material list so I'll get enough air drying time.

Pete, I thought that was a tower at first! You scared me!

8122pbrainard wrote: Here's what I came up with for the quick connect mounted directly on the blast gate at the ceiling: The seal is the rubber bulbous seal version of the snap on "edge guard". (McMaster!!) The blast gate will be opened/closed with a slotted end broom stick. Then locked in place with the same broom stick with the thumb screw.

Sorry Pete I didn't fully take in what you have made ( small bit of GL drinking training ) nice work on twist lock,I have to own up to flexi hose drops with thin ply covers when not used which lift them out the way, but do have the odd bayonet fitting too.
Roger.