302 teardown

I have used tristatecylinderheads.com before and was happy (however since then they have become thier number one seller and gone up $150 in price) others have used clearwater http://cylinder-heads.com/products.cfm..

A fresh 302 bored .030 over with the aforementioned gt40ps, mild cam, and intake will walk all over a 351w with stockish heads. The stroked 302 will also still fit under the doghouse.

As for what hull's are fast, and which ones handle better.. no real winner between the earlier (mid to late 60's) and later ( early 70's) mustangs/skier/skylark as far as I can tell. Neither handles worth a darn compared to any of the ski nautiques, and both could use considerable rudder improvements if you are actually going to see the mid 50s IMHO.

If you are talking about external size for chevy blocks like small block vs big block.. then no ford is not the same. The 302w block is a different external size than the 351w block. The difference is not hugh and many parts can be shared with some work but don't assume anything will swap directly. The 351 cleveland block is not commonly found marinized but it is actually in the big block family.

The square fiberglass motorbox that CC started using in 1970 (though '81, I believe) should fit a 351w under it just fine. It was the earlier (through '69) swoopy glass boxes that arent wide enough for the larger block. I agree that starting with a 351w would be preferred IF you can source all the other parts (block, distributor, etc) for cheap. Since Chris had already started putting money into cleaning up his 302, then sticking with the smaller block makes sense- it will weigh a few lbs less too.

I have yet to see a stock 1st gen Mustang hit 50, though Ive seen a few 2nd gen Mustang/Skier/Tiques do it. The hp difference (~10hp) isnt big enough to blame... I think that, on average, the 2nd gen hull is faster. There are a few slow ones out there (like my Skier and Reid's '73 Stang) that plow or underperform somewhat, but Ive actually yet to see a Tique that doesnt bounce at high speeds without requiring weight in the back. Reid has measured the hook on both and says the 2nd gen has less... so that may be why.

I think the Tique with the single tracking fin tracks and turns 100% better than the un-finned boats (1st and 2nd gens alike), though Id never change the way the earlier boats handled... thats part of their charm. The 1970+ rudder may not be the best out there, but its certainly better than the "lillipad" rudder that came on all 68 and earlier Stangs. The recessed strut also seems to be a better design on the 2nd gens.

Chris, I just sent you an email. Clearwater (cylinder-head.com) should have the heads youre looking for. I believe you forgot an important detail. Youre not looking for "GT40" heads, you want the "GT40p" heads. Theyre not the same. The P heads flow better, are cheaper and are more readily available. Tristate has them too (at a $200 premium) though they come with better valvesprings and supposedly a better valvejob. If going with a cam with more than .500 lift (which a 331 might not mind) then the better valvesprings are probably advised anyways. I dont think Reid's Speedpro is that aggressive though- so youre ok with either set when paired to that cam.

JoeinNY wrote: I have used tristatecylinderheads.com before and was happy (however since then they have become thier number one seller and gone up $150 in price) others have used clearwater http://cylinder-heads.com/products.cfm..

Either they gave you a deal or you got them awhile ago Joe,I just checked their site,they are the same price as I paid 2 years ago. Anyway they are a good deal,I had that much tied up in a rebuilt set 20yrs ago

That was a very good deal then. Are you still using them or have you "out grown" them ?

right up to the high end

The paint I used is Plastikote "Hot Rod Green" Enamel 500 degree engine enamel. Marty got me the first can and I bought a second. Car quest has it or can get it, but I would assume anybody that sells plastikote could get it. It is warming up here too. In the mid to upper 60's all week. Sweeeet!

storm34 wrote:    I'm still torn between a 331 and 347 but I've done some reading and am leaning toward a 331, nothing final at this point.

Chris why don't you give Billy a call,he has a 331 for a reason.I think it's something to do to with the length of the rod to stroke angle and the wrist pin being up into the ring lands on a 347.Car wise your not up into the higher rpm's for long but boat wise you can go for miles!

Gary, thats a great idea. I would love to catch up with the Doc anyway!

reidp wrote: That green looks great! So who has the info for the very dark blue to go with it. I'm trying to do the one in JMurph's orange Promo to take to the SJRR.

Reid, I will hopefully know tomorrow if nobody chimes in until then. Going to stop at a few places and see what they have to say. They said they can match it at the machine shop but I'd like to know what it is so I can paint the trans the same color. I'll give ya a call tomorrow either way. Don't want to bother you tonight as I'm sure you are with the Mrs.

Here's a quick shot of the clean bilge. I used a bucket of hot water, laundry detergent and a scrub brush to start. Once I got everything loosened up I went over everything with a damp rag (wiring and cables). I finished by removing all the extra water with a shop vac and drying with a towel.



Looks a little better than before, huh?



I'll get some better quality pictures up in the morning.

Not sure that this wil help....

I found this ....

Ford Colors

http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors



Light blue - a.k.a. Old Ford Blue
1963 (some applications) - 1965
Duplicolor DE 1601 (Ford Blue)
   Corporate Ford Blue

1966-1968
Orig Ford PN: EP-2075-C
Duplicolor DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue)
PPG DAR 13358
   Ford Blue

1969-1981
Duplicolor DE 1606 (Ford Dark Blue)
TRW #630224
Eastwood's "Dark Ford Blue"

Are you guy's looking for the blue like mine? It's Ford Blue 1941 to 1948.It's a very high quality paint,I painted it 20yrs ago,here's the link,they have other Ford colors too.The cast iron is brushed,it leaves no brush marks,the steel parts and the bellhousing is sprayed.

On the 351w, the change in 1 vs. 2 piece seals came around 1982 or 1983. Im not sure about the 302- but I would assume you'll need to know what year block youre using before ordering the stroker crank.

Im confused by Billy's comments, my understanding is as follows:

-The 2 piece (older) block will have wick lines in the CRANK. The seal itself is bi-directional (no wick lines).

-The 1 piece (newer) block will have wick lines on the SEAL, so it is rotation specific.

The latter 1-piece (reverse rotation) seal is the one that is difficult to find- but I think Reid had some made up for when he converted his 347 from LH to RH.

The 2-piece seals are nothing special and readily available.

It sounds like youre assuming that your 302 is of the older, 2-piece variety. I would have a chat with your machinist and see if its possible to add RH wick lines to the new crank. If not, then going with a newer block and and Reid's seal is certainly an option. The crank would not need any machining in this case.

reidp wrote: I didn't think those new stroker cranks came with any wick lines at all . But if Chris or anyone else with a one-piece 302 needs a RR rear seal, I've got them, as I believe we had 25 made in order to get a decent price break, and like Tim said they were for the 347 we had built. I'll probably be stuck with them for years to come.

A Reidp sighting! Back from Daytona yet?

I think youre right about the "new" (1-piece seal) cranks not having wick lines. I would imagine the ones for the 2-piece blocks would have them though, right? Summit makes you specify which style you want when shopping for a crank.

I bet if you throw those seals in the for sale section here you might sell a few... there always seems to be a market for impossible to find parts. Just make sure you keep a few on hand, just in case!

Reidp definitely be da man with the seals, I can confirm that if you have a later stroker crank for one piece seal blocks u will need a one piece seal block. Other wise u will go to tighten your last cap and find yourself with a rotating assembly that doesn't rotate. 315 567 1273 - Joe