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1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2011 at 7:49am
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:


Hi Pete, I have contemplating the possibility of making a larger or wider stem that would allow me to trim some bad plywood without altering the boat length. Ever seen that done?

Jack,
Yes, I have once. It was on a pretty hacked up ply boat I saw at one of the shows years ago. The thing looked like a flat nosed Bull dog!! I don't feel you would like the way it would look ether.

You didn't like my idea of pulling the stem back but I feel it's a good option. It will not change the looks of the hull nor will it change the way the hull handles. It can't be more than about 3/4" as mentioned before. Trust me, they never built them that accurate anyway!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2011 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:


Hi Pete, I have contemplating the possibility of making a larger or wider stem that would allow me to trim some bad plywood without altering the boat length. Ever seen that done?

Jack,
Yes, I have once. It was on a pretty hacked up ply boat I saw at one of the shows years ago. The thing looked like a flat nosed Bull dog!! I don't feel you would like the way it would look ether.

You didn't like my idea of pulling the stem back but I feel it's a good option. It will not change the looks of the hull nor will it change the way the hull handles. It can't be more than about 3/4" as mentioned before. Trust me, they never built them that accurate anyway!


Pete, Perhaps I don't understand your suggestion of cutting back. If relieved 3/4" wouldn't it show in the top deck plywood. This concerns me because of the fluting in the top deck and the fact that it would throw off the pattern around the edge. I think you said you replaced your deck also and this may have had less consequence in your situation. How much $ is it for 16'goods to replace the hull? I recently purchased marine plywood to build a stitch and glue flats boat and the costs we're staggering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2011 at 1:55pm
Jack,
How about some better pictures of the stem damage. I took another look at the one you posted and towards the top it doesn't look like much damage. It'd down from the deck 6" to 12" where I see most of the problem. Maybe a slight radius change on the stem would allow you to cut back the hull side ply.

I think you will find the deck ply to be butt blocked and the hull sides were scarfed. You will not find sheet goods in 16' lengths and the reason I brought up scarfing a few posts ago.

On the cost, I have seen decks come out beautiful using 1/4" luan underlament!!!

for lumber and ply, take a look at LL Johson


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2011 at 2:35pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
How about some better pictures of the stem damage. I took another look at the one you posted and towards the top it doesn't look like much damage. It'd down from the deck 6" to 12" where I see most of the problem. Maybe a slight radius change on the stem would allow you to cut back the hull side ply.

I think you will find the deck ply to be butt blocked and the hull sides were scarfed. You will not find sheet goods in 16' lengths and the reason I brought up scarfing a few posts ago.

On the cost, I have seen decks come out beautiful using 1/4" luan underlament!!!

for lumber and ply, take a look at LL Johson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2011 at 2:44pm
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
How about some better pictures of the stem damage. I took another look at the one you posted and towards the top it doesn't look like much damage. It'd down from the deck 6" to 12" where I see most of the problem. Maybe a slight radius change on the stem would allow you to cut back the hull side ply.

I think you will find the deck ply to be butt blocked and the hull sides were scarfed. You will not find sheet goods in 16' lengths and the reason I brought up scarfing a few posts ago.

On the cost, I have seen decks come out beautiful using 1/4" luan underlament!!!

for lumber and ply, take a look at LL Johson


if you are saying that the long ply is not available than it becomes a question of where to make the scarf joint. I have in stock some fine 3/8 marine ply. Will post pics soon even though I get a bit ahead of myself. Wait till you see the damage caused by the trailer post! Anyways let me complete my stringer installation so that my commitment is final.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2011 at 9:54am



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2011 at 10:26am
Not surprised to see that, classic correct craft stem falling apart. There is black lower down too so it'as not only falling apart but it is rotting. Total replacement back to the keel like my previuos picture. Laminated or 2 piece whichever your more comfortable with.

I would forget getting that plywood back to a bright finish if it ever was that way it won't be again. If your going to paint you may be able to salvage/scarf it back together but bright I wouldn't think so. There is also plnrty of black on the edges of the ply which to me means the integrity of the bond is suspect also, it may not even hold new fasteners. Every other joint in that boat is going to have the same issues. A real close inspection is warranted and I can only recommend you don't skimp on putting it back together, These were not origianlly very sturdy boats and time has not been kind to any of them this old. At the very least the entire boats needs to be refastened, if me I would remove all plywood, clean, repair frames,etc, seal and adhere useable plywood back on with 5200 and go from there.

In any case Jack you know you have to pull the stem so I'd flip it over and do that, that will show you the next step as you take it apart. I have a pretty strong feeling on what you'll find.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2011 at 10:57am
Jack,
The close up pictures are showing me that that boat is in rougher shape than your first pictures showed. I even see signs of fiberglass. Was the bottom glassed at one time or are those just patches? Ether way, glass on wood is the "kiss of death". I totally agree that you will never get a decent bright finish even if you bleached it. If you want to do a true restoration on the boat, then I suggest new ply. The bottom ply where it's painted may be salvagable but as mentioned, I feel it should come off as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2011 at 12:09pm
Persistance pays and practice makes perfect. More on the stringer replacement;

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 11:36am
The 1949 Dart that is owned by DrC I believe, has caught my eye. Now there is one good looking boat. After study of the many pictures I have determined a couple things of note. Firstly, the boat is completely painted which seems to contradict what Pete has told me, that no CC's we're painted before the 50's. I wonder if the boats may have been available with a variety of finishes to be chosen by the purchaser? On the bow of Waitin For The Dr" the white paint extends up in a serpentine design around the stem area. Noticed when purchased by the current owner the Dart had a metal protector in the bow area also. My feeling is that the white paint is of original design and that very likely my boat had similar attributes. The following picture shows a score line on the bow that designated the boundary of the painted white area. If DrC is so inclined I would request his input.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 12:11pm
Jack,
That score line may be a good clue to how the hull was finished. I have been wrong before!! However, there was plenty of inconsistencies with CC back then plus, Billy's Dart is not a Junior. Records are slim!! Have you looked through the reference section? There is some info there but I believe it's the later years of the Junior.
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:

The 1949 Dart that is owned by DrC I believe, has caught my eye. Now there is one good looking boat. After study of the many pictures I have determined a couple things of note. Firstly, the boat is completely painted which seems to contradict what Pete has told me, that no CC's we're painted before the 50's.

I did not say all CC's: and infact, the real early CC's there was lots of paint!
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
The pictures you posted didn't show any paint on the hull sides forward and to my knowledge none of the juniors had "half and half" jobs. They were ether painted or most came through from the factory bright.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
Considering your Junior is a 1950, I'd say it was bright from the factory. Later years is when paint would have been more prevalent.

Also, Billy added that cutwater.

Yes, some of the models were available bright or painted.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 12:27pm
Jr. There are a few mistakes in your post above. First off her name is " Waitin' on the Doc" and clearly displayed on the transom. Second would be her owner,The Boat Dr AKA Billy Sutton. This boat was a birthday gift from my wife on my 55th.Except for exterior paint on the bottom and the sides the boat is all original, making her presevered , not restored.
Always willing to share with a fellow CC owner,1-318-386-2825
The Dart was the first of the many wooden Correct Crafts to be purchased and brought to Louisiana to live out their lives in a warmer climate..
Good luck and listen to the wise men here, there are three ways to complete a task.... Which one will you choose...........Billy

There is also a 1955 CC Deluxe Commutor, A 1957 CC StarFlite, and a Rare 1964 Aqua Deluxe. This was possibly the last woody to be built at the Pinecastle factory.
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 11:32pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Not surprised to see that, classic correct craft stem falling apart. There is black lower down too so it'as not only falling apart but it is rotting. Total replacement back to the keel like my previuos picture. Laminated or 2 piece whichever your more comfortable with.

I would forget getting that plywood back to a bright finish if it ever was that way it won't be again. If your going to paint you may be able to salvage/scarf it back together but bright I wouldn't think so. There is also plnrty of black on the edges of the ply which to me means the integrity of the bond is suspect also, it may not even hold new fasteners. Every other joint in that boat is going to have the same issues. A real close inspection is warranted and I can only recommend you don't skimp on putting it back together, These were not origianlly very sturdy boats and time has not been kind to any of them this old. At the very least the entire boats needs to be refastened, if me I would remove all plywood, clean, repair frames,etc, seal and adhere useable plywood back on with 5200 and go from there.

In any case Jack you know you have to pull the stem so I'd flip it over and do that, that will show you the next step as you take it apart. I have a pretty strong feeling on what you'll find.


I thank you much 81nautique for your input. As the mystery unfolds it is a high probability that I will see many of the problems described by you, Pete and others who have been kind enough to send well wishes and advice. If I need to remove the plywood and reattach so be it. I think that will be the best way to make any repairs needed on both the hull goods and frame. With new stringers almost complete and the long Winter winding it's way here there will be plenty of time to face the challenge of fabricating the stem. This quite possibly the most difficult of all the work. Can you please tell me more about the 5200 system so well touted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 11:44pm
[QUOTE=8122pbrainard] Jack,
That score line may be a good clue to how the hull was finished. I have been wrong before!! However, there was plenty of inconsistencies with CC back then plus, Billy's Dart is not a Junior. Records are slim!! Have you looked through the reference section? There is some info there but I believe it's the later years of the Junior.

Greetings Pete, When I saw the factory paint jobs on both the Runabout and the Dart in this 1949 brochure http://www.nautiqueowner.com/reference/1949_brochure/ I recognized it to be very much like mine. Making the best guess assumption that it was original would also give me a bit of flexibility in the location of my repair at the bow hull. I even may consider making a patch right at the paint line that partitions this detail. What do you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2011 at 11:59pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Jr. There are a few mistakes in your post above. First off her name is " Waitin' on the Doc" and clearly displayed on the transom. Second would be her owner,The Boat Dr AKA Billy Sutton. This boat was a birthday gift from my wife on my 55th.Except for exterior paint on the bottom and the sides the boat is all original, making her presevered , not restored.
Always willing to share with a fellow CC owner,1-318-386-2825
The Dart was the first of the many wooden Correct Crafts to be purchased and brought to Louisiana to live out their lives in a warmer climate..
Good luck and listen to the wise men here, there are three ways to complete a task.... Which one will you choose...........Billy

There is also a 1955 CC Deluxe Commutor, A 1957 CC StarFlite, and a Rare 1964 Aqua Deluxe. This was possibly the last woody to be built at the Pinecastle factory.


I thank you for responding to my post and for correcting me Billy. Your a lucky man indeed to be married to a gal that would give you such a treasure. She is a treasure in her own rite. I also thank you very much for sharing your phone #. I will record it for future reference so expect a call sometime.

As for "Waitin' on the Doc", I would expect it is rare indeed to find such a specimen that has been virtually untouched. I think it is important to keep as much intact as is possible and it the case of this boat PO's have really done their jobs. I would love to see her someday.
    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2011 at 12:17am
I have been following this thread and commend you on taking on this epic project! Wooden restores are fascinating to me and I could see myself doing one down the road. Have not had much to add, but I do have some experience with 3m 5200. It is basically a below the waterline use caulk but with remarkable flex and bond characteristics. On a fiberglass boat it is mostly just used for through-hull fittings and anywhere that a screw or fastener is used to seal water out. In a wooden boat layup I think it is used for more than just that, and is a wonder material of modern science over the original materials.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2011 at 8:25am
Jack,
A scrib line always indicates a separation of colors of bright and or paint. Yes, if the area forward of the scribe was painted, it sure would give you an easy out on the ply repair at the stem.

How about a picture of the scribe again but not so close. I'm curious to see it's complete shape.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
A scrib line always indicates a separation of colors of bright and or paint. Yes, if the area forward of the scribe was painted, it sure would give you an easy out on the ply repair at the stem.

How about a picture of the scribe again but not so close. I'm curious to see it's complete shape.


Got a bunch or pictures Pete. The sizing process is sure time consuming.

Between the blue residuals from bygone days and the scribes on the bow I need to come up with a best guess as to original or closest to original finish schedule. The blue seems to show up early on if not from the beginning. Could possibly be a red white and blue with the while as the waterline and up the bow. You have seen many I suspect so your input is greatly appreciated and any others care to offer a credible guess are certainly welcome.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 1:02pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

I have been following this thread and commend you on taking on this epic project! Wooden restores are fascinating to me and I could see myself doing one down the road. Have not had much to add, but I do have some experience with 3m 5200. It is basically a below the waterline use caulk but with remarkable flex and bond characteristics. On a fiberglass boat it is mostly just used for through-hull fittings and anywhere that a screw or fastener is used to seal water out. In a wooden boat layup I think it is used for more than just that, and is a wonder material of modern science over the original materials.


I thank you for your interest and comments Keeganino. This is a real fun project so far. I hope you get to do one someday also. Have a feeling these old ones are getting hard to come by. I suspected the 5200 was the 3M system and have read up on it a bit. Will for sure use it to bond the panels which it looks more and more like I will be pulling. Never say never. The boys sure didn't waste any time breaking it to me about the disassemble but now that it has settled in like a long cold winter, I will deal with it. Re securing with modern adhesives will go a long way towards gaining integrity in the hull.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 1:14pm
New stringers have been fit and temporarily reinstalled with one coat of CPES to hold them till the interior gets worked on later. Now the boat is ready to flip.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 1:16pm
Jack,
It sure looks like the existing white waterline continued up the stem forward of the scribe but, strip some more of the white and see what's under it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:

The sizing process is sure time consuming


I like photobucket for that reason. Once you set the parameters(size,etc), all of your future uploads are automatically adjusted.

There's a thread on here that tells how to use it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:



I see you had your persuader out.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 6:31pm
Jack,
Billy sent me a couple close up shots of his Dart so I could post them for him (he has some issues with pictures!! ) They may be helpful.





Double check the white on the hull. There may a problem with it being the true waterline. Are there scribe lines on the white aft?

Billy,
I again had to forward your pictures home and post them from here. My computer at work will not allow me to download your file type!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Double check the white on the hull. There may a problem with it being the true waterline. Are there scribe lines on the white aft?

Jack,
I went back to some of your original pictures and it does seem like the white that's on the hull now, is the proper water line.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 7:28pm
Thanks so much to both you and Billy, Pete. Those pictures may just be a big help. I need to review. My son has a hunch the deck was painted and it just might have been with that blue perimeter and the white center. There is a scribe along the transom that fits the waterline in white however there are blue residuals perhaps under the white. It is quite a trick the way the waterline splits at the bow. Will get transom pictures soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 8:06pm
Jack,
I feel you'd see residual paint someplace in the grain of the deck if it was painted. All I've seen so far with the pictures you've posted is evidence of paste grain filler on both the hull sides and deck. It's even evident forward of the bow scribe line to the stem but, they would need to grain fill that area as well for the paint.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 8:51pm
Jack,
Keep in mind that I'm still not to sure Billy's Dart is done correctlt at the bow area. Man, he and I went "around and around" on the paint how it should be done for at least a week!!!!!!

BTW, The new stringers look great!! I'm glad you went the Doug Fir route.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2011 at 11:44pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
Keep in mind that I'm still not to sure Billy's Dart is done correctlt at the bow area. Man, he and I went "around and around" on the paint how it should be done for at least a week!!!!!!

BTW, The new stringers look great!! I'm glad you went the Doug Fir route.


I was wondering just how far it would get before this discussion came up even though I knew nothing of your debate with Billy re. the paint job on his dart. I would guess you have gained some respect for Billy over a time and with that in mind have agreed to disagree on the paint and also the guard on the bow which I know you dislike. Though the metal guard makes perfect sense someone has to be the keeper of the purity of the original equipment and design . I take my hat off to you for standing up to the plate for that task. I view a few accessories as personalization and to a degree the paint job has a small amount of flexibility IMHO. For example if my deck plywood is sound but not really britework material and I opt to go with a paint schedule that is of the period, I think that is forgivable. It's also made the dart a sweet looking vessel

Thanks for noticing my new stringer work. I know I was a bit stubborn thinking I'd do white oak but I'm not always right. Trick is to know when to listen and when to talk.
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