water behind a stringer

Mike, I would not do the floor in the rear solid. If your using carpet, you can get a nice tight friction fit like Chris is saying without using screws. If you want to use screws, the floor between the motor box and seat is so short, you'll be able to hide them under the seat and motor box.

I like the idea of it being whole and friction fit a lot better than three pieces. I feel like it will be a stiffer floor with less stuff underneath. If it ever has to come out it won't be any harder to do the whole thing than the center. The worst case exhaust failure would require that part being removed anyway. I do not really want to sister support boards in the bilge to hold the center.
I will give it another look tonight, and see what I think.

thanks for the ideas, and the compliment!!!

Mike

OK. Please read the following with the eyes of a guy that has tunnel vision from 130+ hours of working on his bride's boat. I do think that a solid floor is not the worst idea ever. But, that said, I do want some access just in case. The removeable complete rear floor would be great. If you didn't have stuff like a motor in the way. Exhaust etc. You know, all that sh*t that makes a boat go forward fastly. The boat has not had a motor in so long that it kinda got lost as part of the equation. Til now. I got to have a pretty good laugh at myself as I was cutting the center section of my template out. I am putting in a removeable center floor... So yeah. You are all right.

Tonight, my brother and I hoisted up the motor, replaced the front mounts entirely, and sent the engine over the starboard side.
Due to the way I have planned out my trans mounts, it is extremely tight, and will require some modification. I am not too thrilled about how they set in there and how restrictive it is to being able to align the rear side to side. I am going to have a go at the grinder tomorrow and see what I am able to do. If that works great. If not, I am going to get the mounts (1721) from SkiDim and be done with it. Those will work too, from what I can tell, they are just expensive.
My front mounts are awesome, and are going to be a non-issue.

Awesome:



Not awesome:



Broadside:



Hydraulic seal, please do not fail me:




More later.

JBear, yeah you will. Just a few short weeks !!! Cannot wait !

will they be tight because of your L brackets?, i have a complete pair of those fronts off a dorf, they are not cheap, knowing my kind nature i would of gave them to you. i do have some backs also, if you are having problems with the backs, there are a couple different ways you can mount to the stringer

I have a picture of the type of the old ones
here have to check at the shop later to see what shape I left them in.

i tried and tried to figure out the +8, but i have no idea??

ah, got it

I see you dont have a neutral safety on your trans, if you need one I'll send you the set-up.
somewhere along the lines someone is going to hit the key, it will be in gear at full throttle (usually at the dock when your fetching the truck)

Its ALWAYS that one time. trans probably a little tired, no adjustment, when the time comes it sounds like your able to buzz through the trans, you probably have a as1-71c old style with 1 reverse plate. if you are looking to upgrade look for a 10-17-004 it has 2 plates. I see them on e-bay often and usually go in the 150.00 to 200.00 range its worth the money.

A guy did that down at West Branch, local ski hole....he rammed the dock and almost flew out of the boat.
Safety is always first and I only say that cause I use to be the one getting flipped off all the time, you realize later on in life the times that you couldve killed somebody or even hurt yourself on a boat. there are alot of things that can go wrong if you dont pay attention. I said it before, everyone knows somebody that got killed in a boating accident, and the chances are even greater with a ski boat because now you have a man in the water. my worst fear was someone else operating the boat while you are in the water...they panic and are not use to operating the boat as you would....I guess the message would be, be careful and always encourage safety boating classes or pass your knowledge on to whoever is on the boat. alcohol does play a big part in accidents. i drink with the best of them, but not on a boat

Wake - Looks really great!    The only problem might be that you will have to wear sunglasses when you do your shaft alignment.     Quite the impressive bilge finish.

Looking good Mike. See John,while you guy's are out having fun in the sun,Mike is making great progress.I knew living in the Great White North was good for something.

is it just me or are there a couple issues that need addressed? support, 1 X 6 that goes stringer to stringer towards the rear. also with covering the exhaust hoses, doesn't the removable floor panel cover them. Right now there doesn't appear to be any support for the rear center removable floor panel. I'm basing this on the SN is this the way Mustangs where done?

not knocking just wondering if a big oh *************** is in order? nice work and all very clean, just dosn't look like the old SN did.

good illustration Tim did you add the cross support like the SN have to support the front of the rear seat so the floor panel didn't bow?

I am going to put aluminum angles in there both directions. The main stringers for support was part of my original line of thinking with the single piece rear floor (see my humbling realization commments on the previous page) My exhaust will be all new, and double clamped everywhere. Lasted 40 years with crappy hose and single clamped before. If it ever went out on me, I will have to bust up the floor. I am rolling the dice there, I guess.   As far as installing the hoses, if you look closely, that notch comes out, so I can slide the board down onto them, and then screw that to the stringer. They are under the engine cover so will never be stepped on or anything.
I do have to make the oh s*** list of things to not forget pretty quick here.