68 Chris Craft

I feel you're asking for spraying problems with the airless. The HVLP I used once (not on spar varnish - never even considered it - won't work)and couldn't stand the thing maybe because I'm so used to the conventional. I couldn't handle the spray pattern.

Don't worry about your brushing technique. By the time you get to about coat number 7 or 8, you'll be a pro! Don't forget that everyone now does wet sand and buff their brightwork!! Makes up for lots of oops's!

I'd get at least the base coats on the hull sides now (about 5). The hull is in a better position for brushing. Then flip and do the finals.

DrCC wrote: Ok, You guys are now scaring me. If you are truly using a "Paste Wood Filler Stain" You can't spray it. You'll ruin a perfectly good spray gun.    It's heavy and settles fast. Keep stirring while brushing.

Al,
I went back and took a look at where Sean mentioned spraying. He said both stain and varnish and I never commented on the stain since it went right over my head!!

Sean,
If you stain and not fill the Mahogany, what are your plans for the open grain? This furniture guy you've been talking to doesn't sound like he's ever done a wood boat!!! (or a filled piece of furiture ether) Al is correct that a filler stain can not be sprayed. Go back and read some more of Don's book to get a better idea of the process before you go off in a bad direction.

I must have missed the paste stain thing, I better go back and re read that chapter, its been a few months and a lot of 5200 ago.

Like Ive said before, im a welder, this whole wood thing is new to me and I have not even figured out what open grain is yet.

And no, we not doing this professionally, this is a project I never really wanted to do but am working on in my "spare" time for my wife.

I will go back to reading tonight.

DrCC wrote: And yes, I'd flip it back over, but finish the bottom paint first. Or at least get it down to only one coat left. Here's what scares me about the CPES between the stain and varnish. Ok, The paste wood filler has already filled the grain. Thus, stopping the CPES from doing it's job.   Of coarse as per Dr.Brainard stated, let the paste dry for at least two weeks. If you're doing this professionally, you better have something else to do while waiting for this process. And I would question the long term "stick-ability" of the varnish on top of epoxy. I would surely do some testing on a "vertical" sample, to make sure the CPES will not pull the paste filler.

Al,
I'm getting the impression you don't like Dannenberg or his techniques? Jealousy? You sure shouldn't be because you sure have done some beautiful work.

"Dr.Brainard"? Sounds like you're being "short" with me here! No need to go there - I didn't come across the CPES method and am simply stating a proven method. I wish I had and then wouldn't be dealing with the "suck back" issues!! My last down to bare wood was before the CPES technique.

Two weeks for the filler stain to dry. Yes, when needed it's something that can be planned around. Other work areas on a restoration are always there. If you're into this trade professionally, hopefully you have more than 1 boat project. I saw several at one time in the pictures you posted.

CPES as a primer is excellent. Same principle as using a sealer such as Pettit 2018. The 2018 has some pretty aggressive solvents in it as well. If you use a varnish at a 50% reduction it too is pretty aggresive. Yes, the CPES will saturate into both the filler and wood stabilizing/sealing it just as the 2018 does.

If you're really concerned about filler and stain pull out, then the roll and tip method sure would be good to look into. You just need two people!!

doesent the cpes close the grain when it soaks in and sets?

Al,
Thank's for the explanation. It was very appreciated. Getting to correct idea/impression across in words is sometimes a problem.

All right, we regrouped a little and re read the next section, I think we are back on track. I have the paste coming and we are working on the color we want. Thanks, both of you, I dont want to miss something.

We are sanding the final shape into the boat this week and hope to do the bleach and stain the following week. I found the old pics of the boat as we were tearing it down, follow the link to the rest of them, to many to post here I think.





boat pics

I think i will keep it, i need to dig that stuff out and see what needs plated again and what will polish up. last time we did chrome on a car it took almost a year to get it done and back. I need to layout the water line this week and get ready to bleach and stain next week. really on a push to flip this thing...

Sean, Results of the bleach look good, I was a little worried for you with those color variations.

Did you use african or genuine mahogany for the topsides?

almost done for the winter, i want to get a couple more coats on it this week and flip it, then it will probably sit till next winter when i have time again to work on it.

I did drag the mustang into the shop yesterday so i can rebuild the carb and dump it in the lake here directly. time to shift gears.

No one has been as worried as me! Im used to painting cars where everything is the same, this natural wood grain stuff is hard to deal with. The previously darker boards have a different grain pattern from the rest of the boards and bug me a lot but its to late to change that. Ill know better for the topside work. Its been a learning experience for sure, one i honestly hope to not repeat. I like a challenge but this one has been a whopper.

Awesome! Cant wait to see the results!

Boats, Booze and guns....sounds like a fun party

Are you going to use the original wood from the deck or are you replacing? Looking good

I think somethings wrong with my computer or the net has scrambled up the wording in the above post??