My new 2001 and my first!

No offense Luch but when I do a floor/stringer job on a 25 year old boat I expect more than 5-7 out of the floor and 15-20 out of the stringers.

Anyway Aka... you do seem to be short on the shaft.... I had about 5.25 from the end of the strut to the shaft. Heres what I have...



I am pretty sure its what you have for the cradle brackets/etc.   

Luchog wrote: A well done poly job will endure as much as any other if properly cared. The rule of thumb around here is more or less 5-7 years for floors and 15-20 for a good stringer job, always talking about a properly cared boat.

I've got to agree with Joe that these aren't the greatest numbers. "A well done poly job will endure as much as any other if properly cared" will not last like the epoxy simply because of the hygroscopic problem with poly.

Luch, You must have seen or at least know about hull blistering in your area. It blisters because the poly takes on water. What is done to correct it is grind off the poly gel on the bottom and put on a epoxy barrier coat.

The 5 to 7 year floor is failing from water intrusion. With poly resin, you can't stop it even with the best of care.

8122pbrainard wrote: Luch, You must have seen or at least know about hull blistering in your area. It blisters because the poly takes on water. What is done to correct it is grind off the poly gel on the bottom and put on a epoxy barrier coat.

Pete, That is very interesting. My boat was on a trailer for a few years. The trailer was a make shift trailer. The bunk bed were 2x6 covered with carpet. I start noticing some small blisters at the edge of the boat. I think that is were the bunks were in contact with the boat. I always wonder how can I fix that. These are the question I have:

1. What can happen if I use the boat like that?
2. How to match the gelcoat?
3. Do I have to remove all the gelcoat or only part?
4. What I need to do when I remove the gelcoat? How to repair the blister.

Anthony,
Removal of all the gel is only done with the extreme cases - usually larger boats that are sitting in warmer waters in the harbor all the time. On these larger boats you will typically see bottom paint - it's there as a moisture barrier as well as the anti fouling.

Go to West marine's site and look for their "advisor" on blister repair. Read up on it. For minor blisters, it's really only patching. Sometimes just a gel repair kit. It's on the bottom of the boat so a perfect match isn't really needed.

Joe I think you might be right. I can't get an exact measurement until I pull the engine out but I think the shaft might only be 49.125 inches.

When I push the shaft about 1.5 inches down and get the stop where it was originally the prop fits fine.

On your setup do your trans mounts and engine mounts sit in the same place on the old cradle? Or are your engine mounts further towards the bow?

I have two options. Get a longer shaft (or get my old 82 shaft machined and have some of the length taken off) or put the old trans mounts on and push the engine more towards the rear. The problem with option 2 is I don't think I can get the engine any lower. I am also at the bottom on the trans mounts but since the stringers are going to be replaced I could make them .5" lower.

How do I know if I am throwing off the balance of the boat with the correct engine location? Will 1-2 inches make much of a difference?

If I use the old trans mounts then the engine and trans mounts will line up to the old holes on the cradle.







After putting on the dog house the oil filter hits the inside and the belt is VERY close the the bottom part by the ski pole.

After looking at this I think I am going to put the old trans mounts on, move the engine towards the back about 1.5 inches and then use the 49.2" shaft I have.

I will just have to lower the stringers slightly and put a shim under the engine mount to tilt the engine a little.

Sorry man! Don't mean to confuse you. I know it is a little hard to write some of this stuff so it make sense. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. You can see that my trans mounts are in the existing holes but the front engine mounts are off. The red arrows are the existing holes where the old engine sat.

Well I guess I didn't need my trip to Cancun to think about things! I decided it was time for me to get this party started.

I know many of you can appreciate this scene. I started to remove the rest of the floor by the air box. I was going to leave it in because the foam looked good but man am I glad I decided to take it out!

If I hadn't I would have never met my new friends! I found 3 water roaches living in the saturated foam by the vents. YUCK! The foam was very wet closer to the bottom of the hull and by the vent lines and it was black and nasty!

Since I finally got up the nerve to start the project I feel confident in doing the rest of it. All I have to say is more props to guys that do this for a living! Just removing this part for me was brutal!

Got the wood on order and should be showing up after I get back from my trip!



I tried to be gentle with the air box but that dam thing just didn't want to come out! Guess I will reshaping that when I pour the foam!



I wore a tyvek suit but my freakin arms still itch! Guess I need to wear long sleeve shirts as well :/

Not sure! I will let you know.

Can anyone tell me why the stringers start high in the front and have this step down? I don't understand why they are not flush all the way to the front of the cradle.

Are the two separate pieces of ply that are used here different thicknesses?

AKA,

So did you decide to do the stringers yourself, or are you just taking out the old foam out to prep it to send it out for rebuild? You mentioned that you are ordering the wood so it sounds like you are doing it yourself.

It should be a great boat when you are done.

Donald

AKA,

Wise choice on doing it yourself, then you will know exactly what you have in the end.

Donald

BuffaloBFN is the man you need to talk to. Have you looked at his thread "weeding the pumpkin patch" . He restored his 88 BFN and documented EVERYTHING! He is an inspiration to us all.

Morfoot wrote: BuffaloBFN is the man you need to talk to. Have you looked at his thread "weeding the pumpkin patch" . He restored his 88 BFN and documented EVERYTHING! He is an inspiration to us all.

While thats true, Greg didnt use a plywood floor like AKA is considering. I havent seen anyone document that, but JoeinNY is probably the closest- he didnt refoam his '83 when he rebuilt it with coosa. Id take a look at his pictures.

AKA, where I ran strips of 3/4" ply to the back, it would be easy enough to make it solid. Most of the front of mine is ply.

There's another thread from some time ago where FINNS posted the injected ply meathod.

There would be a weight difference; a little heavier with the ply. I think it might also be tough with the batch meathod.

I filled the cavity in front of my bilge by pouring through a hole, and it can be tricky making sure no voids are left.

Since Buffalo and Bill both glassed over foam I think I am going to go that route.   I would prefer to go with a method that is fully documented like their posts and Bill's site is instead of guessing.

I have a few questions if you guys don't mind!

1. I don't have my battery box. Would it be an issue to not sink the battery in the floor and just strap it to the floor next to the air box?

2. How many vent lines and what size need to go from the bow to the bilge and can I use PVC for the vent lines instead of flexible hose? Remember I have a more powerful PCM 330HP engine so I assume it will need more air that the original engine but probably the same as Buffalo's 454. He has 3 vents but it looks like Bill has 2 so I assume 3 would be sufficient?

3. I am using a sawzall and angle grinder to get the floor out and remove all the edges. To knock down to the original glass is the best method to use a orbital sander with 60 grit? Buffalo is that how you knocked the white coating off in the bilge?

4. When I get down to the glass and I am ready to apply new glass to the old glass do I need to wipe down the old glass with acetone first or is that just for new resin that has set for more than 24 hours?

5. Buffalo you used plywood fir for all your wood work? I am using fir for the stringers and have read several posts on marine ply and regular but I figured if I am going to order the fir on Monday I might as well get 3/4" fir ply for the floor if that is the best material to use!

I am going to level the boat tomorrow and get the rest of the glass out as I wait for supplies.

Thanks for everyones help! I really appreciate it!