Show me your garage

uk1979 wrote: Sorry Pete I didn't fully take in what you have made    nice work on twist lock    but do have the odd bayonet fitting too. Roger.

Roger,
Thanks. I'm really happy they way it turned out. I drew it up but until you actually make it, you never know. It's a tough connection and very airtight.
What's the "bayonet" fitting you're talking about? I may know what it is but the problem may be a case of the "english to english" translation!!

Kind of embarrased to post photos of my man shed after seeing all of these kick a@@ garages, but it's all I've got for now. My buddies rib me and say it looks more like a dollhouse, but it stores my tools and shields the boat from rain and direct sunlight.

8122pbrainard wrote: where did all the kid stuff come from?

Pete, We've figured out what "caused" the kids. We now have cable AND the movie package.

8122pbrainard wrote:     Roger, Thanks. I'm really happy they way it turned out. I drew it up but until you actually make it, you never know. It's a tough connection and very airtight. What's the "bayonet" fitting you're talking about? I may know what it is but the problem may be a case of the "english to english" translation!!

Pete, sorry I missed this, yes you can just make a ring that fits snug over the ducting with 2 slots like you see on a light bulb holder then fix to studs on the other pipe and just push and twist to lock up, but has no seal like yours, I think you have access to a lazier so easy to do flat then weld up.

Looking forward to see all the wood work in the US as last time I was over most is solid wood.

Roger.

Pete are you talking about a fiber type binder in the mix before it's poured, or some type of fiberous mat placed within the form at/during the pour? I've seen many use standoffs to hold the mesh in place and have even seen the plastic wind/snow fencing used out in the country during the winters to control drifting being used as well. I'll have to ask my buddy Trent about it next time I see him, I have some future concrete work so it will be good info to know.

Thanks Pete, I'll speak with my buddy, aka local Cement plant president/owner, when I run into him at the pub.

Pete
I just revisited this thread, and have just read the last few posts.
I am familiar with the poly fibers you are asking about. I did a 20 page paper on the use of fibers in concrete, in college, back in '87. They are great for crack control. I would highly recommend them. Don't worry about any fuzzy finish. They trowel smooth. If you do have any sticking up, a quick pass with a torch, and they're gone.

Steve,
I should have known you'd have a comment cosidering you're in the precast field! Thanks! So, they are a poly and not a glass fiber?

Bruce,
Good to hear your slab is holding up. You are correct that it really isn't that fuzzy but you can tell it's in there by looking at it. I am planning on painting the floor and the painting contractor has quoted it. However, it won't be till spring as he wants the concrete to cure for 6 months. I spec'd a high solids industrial floor epoxy. Don't even consider using one of the homecenter/hardware store "kits"!!

Pete
The fibers we use are a polypropylene striated fiber. There are all types of fibers from nylon, to steel. We did a job that called for a 3/4" twisted galvanized steel fiber (Helix) that were the diameter of a needle. It was the meanest products we ever produced. The fibers would poke through leather welding gloves. All of our wheelbarrow tires had to be foam filled, because the fibers that spilled on the shop floor would puncture them. But it made what you could call ductile concrete. The 2" thick slabs would bend well before they failed in testing.

Here is my second home - Girlfiend at the time found a detached garage with a house....in our limited price range...I merried her.) 20 x 50 garage (2 car garage 50' long)Fully insulated with heat/ power/phone/internet/TV/Cable/Air...but no bathroom - SHUCKS)

The front (Not shown) is for Boat Storage when not in use for dirty work(body, paint, post race clean-up, and major machine work that causes grit/slop/slime). The front has less lighting and no drywall on the ceiling (yet) but the walls are done.

The back half is all racing prep/rebuild/restore and tire/race parts storage with a setup pad and burried lift. I got tired of lack of lighting so I installed 15 8' lights with cold weather ballests. Never gets below 45 in there anyways but... it makes it brighter! Rear is completely plumbed with air hoses hanging out of the ceiling...Lots of electrical (I honestly dont know how much but I have two small breaker boxes and one 30 amp big guy...)

Sliding door between the two parts (Front and rear) so i can heat/Air/Dehumidify the whole thing or half of it. (And keep the debris out of the back if I am doing glassworks and/or other work.   

Its completely functional and less pretty (Wish it was prettier but I cant afford the fancy cabinets and such). All the work benches and shelving is made out of junk 2x4's but built in modular sections so I can take it with me to the next house. Front half has simlar shelving as the back but it goes floor to ceiling.

Its full, and I need more space for the new boat. This is my second garage and if/when I do it again, I would prefer a 30 x 50 or bigger but with the garage doors on the long axis not the short access. No need for an overhead crane, I just use the engine hoist or a gantry (more flexible)

Wifes car, my daily driver, and the truck sit outside....I have a very understanding wife! I have pictures but dont know how to attach...(I will have to read up on that procedure)




Cj

Bruce,
In our "neck of the woods", the same is done for a floating slab. Not so much here in Illinois due to the clay soils/high moisture causing lots of frost heave but up north where the moisture is low due to the sandy soils, very common for at stand alone garage. Thickened slab at the perimeter to mimic footings/handling the load of the building and then a nominal 4" slab in the middle all poured at once (mono pour).
My shop if you noticed did get frost wall and footings (some areas call them "footers"!!!) with the bottom down below the frost line set at 48". It's heated and although very well insulated at the slab (2" extruded poly foam below and at the perimeter) the heating makes a difference.

Speaking of foam insulation, I did want to use isocyanate foam on the slab but the cost difference is BIG compared to the extruded poly and only a couple R's different per inch. Iso is a urethane the same used in the pour foam in our boats - We all know the cost of that foam is a MAJOR cost of a stringer job (if used).

There is one area where space is limited in the wall next to the CMU's where I am going with the Iso. board. The square footage isn't big and the extra R's on the insulation is needed. The contractor is even filling the CMU cores as spec'd with poly beads. It's the weak point of the high insulation factor of the complete building. At least it's only about 10" of the lower wall of roughly half the building (higher finished grade - slab is below grade on the one half).

Chris,
Thanks for filling me in on Trent's opinion. I feel the correct move to go with fiber was made.

Go fix that boat!!!

harddock wrote: So Pete, If I have the progress straight. The slab is poured and the cabinets are in. Once you have power your and can move in the fridge your basically done

Kevin,
Yup, I'm almost ready for the next time my wife kicks me out of the house!!    Actually she's never done that! She's as excited as I am with the project! She and the kids are up there for the summer again. My son in the bunk house gets a "wake up call" early when the construction starts and my wife is constantly being blocked in with her car by construction vehicles!! The guys arrive and just sort of park where ever their trucks stop. It's tight with 7 guys working on the project. 4 general, one electrician and 2 plumbers.

Walls are up and trusses next week. Man, the truss guys must be slow - my general just ordered them Monday and they aren't "standards" from stock. 8" raised "energy" heels for better insulation and to get my dust collection ductwork to clear the bottom of the roof at two walls.

Tim D wrote: Fiber in concrete is a waste of money. All they do is throw a small bag of fibers in the cement truck when they fill it. Fiber isn't going to hold it together like wire. I've had 90 yards poured at my house. One main thing to watch is whoever is pouring/finishing the concrete, don't let them add water to the mix. Keyway joints and "black mammy" board is good for expansion.

Tim,
Thanks for the input. I never realized you were such a expect in concrete. I thought it was in the decal area.

After the subject came up. I did do some additional research and found some interesting documentation. You may find it interesting to look into:
"EN 14845-1:2007 Test methods for fibres in concrete"
"ASTM A820-06 Standard Specfication for fibres in Fibre Reinforced Concrete"
Amazing reading plus fantastic specs!!!

Maybe the guy who did your pour screwed you over?? "mammy board" is considered old school don't you think? Did you go with the cheapest guy you could find? If so, you got what you deserved. Sorry!

Tim D wrote: Hey use fiber, I don't give a *uck what you do. If you believe little pieces of fiber glass can hold concrete together more power to you. I didn't say I was an expert just giving advice on my experience, which you don't need, you know everything.

Tim,
I do not profess to know everything and that's the reason I research. The research included the documents I sited in my previous post. I'm very confident in the fiber mix and it really isn't that new. It's been around for quite some time. The first I saw it used was about 30 years ago. It's also of interest listening to experts in the field like Steve (tullfooter) and Chris's friend Trent as well as people who have actually used it. I appreciate you're advice with your experience but have you any using fiber? Yes, the old school has worked for years but I am always open minded to the new and in most cases better methods.

In my case with the in floor pex tubing, using mesh is not a user friendly process. If the pex is tied off to the top of the mesh as in most cases and the mesh is pulled to the proper height, then the pex ends up too high in the slab. I have never seen it done with the mesh on top of the pex.

You do realize that if we didn't have glass fibers, you wouldn't be in the boat you're in. You'd be in a wood boat!

BYW, Charlie (brady) was over there during the pour. None of the loads came in "hot" so no water was added. I'm very familiar with added water washing the already gelled portland off the aggregate.