1972 SN Promo Project

Chris this may help. From this diagram the top end is oiled through rocker shaft on this engine. It states that the second bracket is where the oil supply gallery to the rocker shaft is located.
Maybe worth giving the engine a flush before adding new 30W oil.
I would also give it a try with cranking the engine over but obviously not starting so the whole rotating assemblies are moving. Make sure you have a nice healthy cranking battery.

That completely makes sense though - Might get to try that on Wednesday.

Love the out takes! Man that camera guy is good!

Can't find the hole, we've all been there.

So, every night before I go to bed I always watch some clips of nautiques on the lake just to remind me why I'm working my butt off to replace my stringers and floor. What's funny is when I open youtube it is now showing your clips of your rebuild as suggested videos to watch. Keep em' coming, I'm enjoying seeing what all your doing.

rolleronariver wrote: So, every night before I go to bed I always watch some clips of nautiques on the lake just to remind me why I'm working my butt off to replace my stringers and floor. What's funny is when I open youtube it is now showing your clips of your rebuild as suggested videos to watch. Keep em' coming, I'm enjoying seeing what all your doing.

Haha. Thanks man!!! I hope I can keep the "content" up during the grinding stage.

HW, that's what I thought initially but statistical analysis suggests that the engine is the variable. No difference in the tests at all.

Hollywood wrote: Not sure 3 data points is statistically significant.

There were way more than 3

Isn't a compression test on a cold engine pretty much useless, other than to tell you that you do at least have compression? The numbers are meaningless as they are likely to change once the engine is warm. And if you've put oil in the cylinders, won't that skew the test as well with high numbers?

Riley wrote: Isn't a compression test on a cold engine pretty much useless, other than to tell you that you do at least have compression?

I think you answered your own question

Riley wrote: The numbers are meaningless as they are likely to change once the engine is warm. And if you've put oil in the cylinders, won't that skew the test as well with high numbers?

They indeed more qualitative than quantitative but still not completely meaningless, to me anyway.

skutsch wrote: BTW, the starter is pretty much fried,

Steve,
What's the starter doing or not doing?

skutsch wrote: BTW, the starter is pretty much fried, and the carb is no where near functional, so if someone has a carb and starter we could borrow, I would love to fire this thing up.

What are you calling fried? Have you taken it apart to see if it can be cleaned and have the brushes replaced? I would think you could get it working good enough to fire that motor. I wish I lived closer and I would do it for you.

TRBenj wrote: skutsch wrote: while we attack the stringers - at this point that is MY biggest concern, I honestly don't think there is anything even under the fiberglass (in most cases) - how are we going to recreate those??? I don't understand the concern... Unless you're referring to the less than fun grinding and glassing that constitutes a stringer job? Unless you're itching (ha) to get started on the stringers, I'd give a carb rebuild a shot and try to fire that thing. It's a little easier to do while in the boat.

My thoughts exactly. Partially because I'm in the middle of a stringer job on my sport. I agree, I would see what can be done with the motor before you start on the stringers. Besides not being able to use your boards as a template, it might be easier grinding those things down with it being so rotted.

What does it matter the engine is in the boat? It would be a hell of a lot easier working on it sitting on a cradle on the floor. I think the point is don't start taking it apart just yet. You can run an engine on a cradle...

Hollywood wrote: No need to precisely duplicate the original stringer design. There are also opportunities for improvement. Put the engine and floor where they need to be that's about it. The rest kinda whatever you want.

That is good to know - now we just have to convince Chris it doesn't have to be exactly as original. BTW if he is going to put a platform on it, what does it matter... I'm just saying.

Thanks for all the comments everyone!!!!

I see 2 sides of the coin here. On one hand I agree that now is the time to see how far we can go with the engine since everything is in place. I'll rip into the carb today and see what kind of shape it's in after a hot bath. A few more considerations,

1. I don't know if the fuel pump works.
2. I don't know what the inside of the gas tank looks like.
3. The wiring harnes is a total mess and I'm not sure if the coil will get power.
4. The surface of the heads where the exhaust manifolds mate are very pitted and rusty. At the very least they will need to be resurfaced at a shop.

The hour meter in the boat last read 1495 so there very well could be life left in the engine. In the long run, I don't want to invest all the time and money into the stringers, gel, trailer, wiring, bottom paint, and gauges just to put a big rusty engine in the middle. One of the big questions I was going to propose was:

If the engine gets rebuilt, what upgrades could be included (hidden) to give it more power but also keep it original to the eye? Since there is no set deadline for the project completion, I'd like to consider as many options as possible NOW while everything is apart.

The positive is that we're having an awesome November so far and the weather is actually pleasant for work outside. One of these days I have to go back to work like a real person. In fact, I have a few more days left before holiday travel season begins.