Alignment

Buffalo,
   I didn't mean to leave you out of the thank you , you have also helped me, so thanks a lot. I did get in there and start moving things around, but I have yet to figure out what size wrench fits those mount bolts (for up and down adjustment). I think it may be metric? It seems like my whole motor needs to be shifted over, you can see in the pic that the whole things is over about a 1/4 inch. I can move the driveshaft over to it, but I know that isn't the answer. Motor to driveshaft, not vise versa. Thanks Greg

Greg, I forget if you're in my neighborhood...drag it on by if you are!

i swear to you guy's, I had a PCM 1.23 with a completly busted off back end from the old slide hammer trick, its not a good idea,

Greg (baumanmt) I just noticed that you are in northern Montana! Not to often that we get someone here from that area. My college days were spent at Montana State back in the early 70's. After graduating, I went to work at Chet Huntley's Big Sky. I worked there for a year and a half and then realized that working construction in the area was seasonal. In order for me to stay I would have had to find one of the rich ranchers daughters but that didn't work!! Came back home to the Midwest but certainly miss Montana.

Do get a prop puller or at least a gear puller that will fit. You want a constant pressure on the prop taper. Greg mentioned heat and that will work in combination with the puller. Don't slide hammer it.

brainard- I'm up in Whitefish, Mt. and build houses, it is year around, but some winters are tough. I had the puller on pretty tight and was heating it up. It was 30 degrees in my garage so prop and shaft are really cold, and I didn't want to heat it up so much that I hurt the cutless bearing? Do I tighten the puller nut as much as possible, and if so what is a safe way to stop the prop from spinning? Here is a pic of the puller I'm using. Thanks

saffer- I am by no means the expert on any of this, but I was where you are a couple of weeks ago. You do need the two couplings to come apart in order to check your alighnment and I dont think taking apart your stuffing box (brass nuts) will help with the seperation. You may let some penetrater soak in over night, and wait for Eric to respond. I was told to take the rubber hose off at the Stuf. box to see if the shaft was centered. Start at the first page of this topic (alighnment) and I think you will answer a lot of your own questions. I hope that helps.     BaumanMt

baumanmt wrote: I was told to take the rubber hose off at the Stuf. box to see if the shaft was centered.

Greg, if you mean what I said, I meant to remove the boot at the log so that it doesn't interfere with checking the line-up at the strut. The boot and stuffing box are a water seal and not structural; the boot will also develope 'memory' from being in a given position for a long time. This is why you may need to pop it off to center the shaft. See if your drive shaft is centered in the front and rear of the cutlass bearing at the same time.

Tim, here's a great spot for your diagramming skills!

Pete, is the boot on the shaft log just water line or some sort of ordinary hose?

Not much room to work with, with that prop puller. Maybe put a thinner nut on it to keep the prop from flying off when it releases? Once you get the puller tight, you should wack it with a big hammer to get it to release. The puller is not supposed to release it by just tightening it.

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg Buffalo, Keeping the prop nut loosely (look close-there is space between it and the prop)on the shaft is actually the preferred method. When the taper lets loose, it keeps the prop from flying off and hitting the floor.

I remember reading about that...and I remember 1 time I wish I'd known about it! I see the space you mean, but how about the other side of the same nut?

I have the same puller, but it fits on my set-up dead in line with the shaft. His may be bent just a hair? The first couple of times I used it, the prop came off like a gun shot. Since then my prop has been to Delta and I lapped it on as I learned here. Now it comes off with an solid pop but with much less effort and my neighbors don't come running out to see what I've done to myself?!!?   

Yessir!

Riley wrote: Pete, I have a puller just like the one in the photo. It is made by Acme. The instructions say it is not designed to release the prop by cranking down on the nut. It says to get it tight and then give it a hit with a hammer. The shock is supposed to release it, not the pressure from the clamp.

Absolutely correct and the point I'm trying to make. With a "C" type pulling on one side, it will start to stretch open and then not pull equally around the hub. Now you need to finish it off with the hammer!! Eric, like myself uses a puller that will pull on all sides and I know he appreciates it. He uses one a lot more than I do!!! They do take longer to put on especially the one I made because you need to thread 3 or 4 bolts into the C holed plate behind the prop. I really don't know why the prop guys continue to sell the C types and what I consider to be a poor design. Maybe they are counting on more prop repairs from the damage they cause!

I'd like to mention again the prop taper compared to the taper in the quill of a drill press that holds ether a drill chuck or drill bit. It's not uncommon for me to find someone trying to remove ether with a block of wood and just wailing on it with a BFH just because they couldn't find the drift. I'll find the drift and with a slight tap the taper pops because the force is a equal pull or in this case, a push.

Saffer, i think you are trying to gently, try a very rigid putty knife, you have to get this apart to check the alignment,
i know exactly what you are trying to do cause I'll watch my guy's for humor trying what you are trying and then I'll hop on the boat and give it a good whack and pop it, dont be afraid to hit it...dont use a sledge either...

I'd be some po'd if I damaged my prop with one of those c puller after paying $70 for it. Good to know for future reference.

over torqued is over torqued, doesn't matter if you use a 1/2 impact or a 3/8 impact if it not inline and torqued at an angle you are not doing any thing but bending stuff, like the shaft, using an impact wrench on a puller of any kind? why? dumb?, guess if you want to tear stuff up go a head, but it a feel thing, not a brute force think, but I'm a poor mechanic and don't make my living that way, but... each there own.

79 sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, my statement was made because at times on a 2 1/2 shaft you need an impact, plus i make my own pullers and if i break them no one can yell at me

when your paying some 20.00 and hour to do a 10 minute job and he's wondering around you tell him to hit it with an impact, that is a last ditch effort when all else fails, you would understand and no i dont use screwdrivers as chisels, if my old boss ever seen me hit one of his pullers with an impact he would of fired me on the spot and that was embedded in my brain for years. when your hanging under a swinging boat on a 4x4 raft you hit it with an impact or you are going swimming when it lets loose. do i condone it no, is it necessary sometimes yes