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68 Chris Craft

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2010 at 1:31pm
goodyears would look very fitting along the rub rail. Added protection as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2010 at 2:25am
It's been done before,but a tower would be nice

69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2010 at 9:55am
These are key words. Keep them in mind.
Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

there are so few of these around from 68

Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

i think it was a less desirable boat.

Not less desirable - it was just the trend back them. Wood was out and glass was in.


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2010 at 10:55am
I'm doing my best to stay close to original but Im a hot rodder from birth, I never met anything i could not improve on. So far ive resisted the urge to up the Hp on the old 283, its all rebuilt and all i did was put on a nice set of corvette aluminum valve covers from the era. The vinyl is tempting, i would be nearly done if everything just got covered over now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2011 at 11:06am




Got the topstripped off last night and most of the crap swept out. I need to cpes, 5200 and paint the inside yet to make sure everything is done before i put the floor back in and put the rest of the new wood in. Hopefully the deck work goes a lot faster than the rest of it did. I need to drag out the trim and hardware and see about getting it polished up or plated so I can get this thing wrapped up.

The engine is all rebuilt and waiting on the pallet. I should talk to eric a bit I suppose about the velvet drive. I did not do anything to it, probably should check it out a bit more befor in put it back in as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2011 at 4:27pm
Sean,
From the pictures, it looks like you're doing some heavy thinking and looking at reference books. Deciding on what you want to do with the deck?


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2011 at 4:40pm
Not me, I never make it into the pictures, always on the other side of the camera... but your right we are reading the next chapter in the book and trying to remember whare we left off! Im looking for pictures of simular boats with the wood deck right now, i want to put the top on in a period correct fashion even if its not technicaly correct.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2011 at 7:14pm
Sean, backing up several months, what did you use for bleach on the top sides and what was the process? I'm going to end up with similar color variations on my Hurricane so I plan to bleach the entire boat but have never done it.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-05-2011 at 10:56am
I dont remember the brand right now, I will look and see if I have the box around yet. I ordered it from the local lumber yard and it was a pretty simple process. tape off the light stuff and paint on the bleach and wait. I dont remember what deactivated it, water i think. it took a couple coats to get it light enough. the only thing i did not like, the darker boards took stain much better than the light ones so they still are a little darker. I would go a shade to light if i had it to do over.


Going out tonight to CPES some parts and start paintin g the inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2011 at 6:36pm
Wood kote lite N up was the bleach
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2011 at 7:00pm
Alan,
I've had a 2 gal (2 component) kit of "Super Wood Bleach" made by Burton L. Norton Co. in Grand Rapids Mi. for years. You really don't need very much and it doesn't go bad. Kleen Strip also makes the 2 component and Woodworkers Supply stocks it.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2011 at 8:34pm
Pete, I am running out of gray paint for the inside, Jack sent me up some unmarked stuff. do you know of Anything i might be able to pick up locally to finish the inside with?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2011 at 10:00pm
Sean,
The gray or Chris "red" bilge paints I've always thought were nothing more than a thinned down semi-gloss alkyd enamel. I've never used anything except the specialty bilge paints but would think if you could find a semi-gloss locally it would work. The alternate is to give Jamestown a call and wait for the brown truck!!!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2011 at 12:24pm
Tanks for the bleach info guys. I think some testing is in order soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2011 at 2:18pm
Alan,
I don't know about the Kleen Strip but the Norton Co. stuff is pretty harsh. I think it's caustic soda and one of the few things I put on rubber gloves for!!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2011 at 1:02pm


Paint finally came in, one more coat tonight and we will start laying in the decks. Found a good picture of a 68 grand prix to copy the board pattern. Should go a lot faster than the bottom did.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2011 at 10:58am


Finally some visiable progress again. hopefully we will have the front deck done by the end of the weekend as well and get back to sanding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 6:58pm


Should have the rest on tomorrow if things go as planned
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2011 at 11:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2011 at 11:09am




Hopefully we will start staining and varnishing this thing next week! The sanding and plugging is about finished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2011 at 11:57am
Looking Awesome!          
👣 Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2011 at 10:29pm
Looks real nice Sean.
Do you hand sand after the machine sanding?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 8:18pm
I dont hand sand much, ive been using the air board sander to get the last bit of it with the grain. We did do some blocking between layers of clear on the sides. I told someone yesterday, this was my first woodworking project, I should probably have started with a bookshelf or something to learn the proper ways but its not my nature.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:

between layers of clear on the sides. I should probably have started with a bookshelf or something to learn the proper ways but its not my nature.

Sean,
"Clear" on the sides? What did you use? I hope it's not what I think it is!!

The deck is looking good!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2011 at 11:33am
Sorry pete, been doing cars to long, we "clear" everything. What I meant was the brushed on layers of interlux schooner varnish... My furnature guy is supposed to show up today so we can get the stain on and start the pretty part.

What do you use for caulk in between the boards and how early in the process? I plan to stain, cpes and put on a layer or two of varnish then white caulk the seams and put on a couple more coats of varnish to protect it all. I bought a pinstripe tool to whiten up he stripes if the varnish yellows them to much as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2011 at 11:53am
Sean,
I'm glad to hear that you are in fact using a spar varnish and not a automotive "clear" coat. The automotive clears look great (with the exception of not adding the amber tone like a spar) but I've never seen one hold one for more than a couple months on a wood boat. My understanding is they are not flexable enough to handle the seasonal moisture growth/shrinkage. They also do mot offer any UV protection.

The seams are done with 5200 before the last or second to last coat of varnish. Paint is optional but most will paint. The fake seams can be paint only if the grove depth matches the real seams. If your seams are clean with crisp edges. I just slop the paint in and hard block wet sand accross the top removing the unwanted paint. Then the last coat of varnish. Masking takes time and is a real PITA.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2011 at 11:56am
Dannenberg recommends Sika-Flex 291 for the deck seams, I think you've got the sequence down. Varnish over the caulk and then white paint after the final varnish.

Looking very good Sean.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2011 at 1:37pm
I like the paint idea! I cant paint a straight line to save my butt! I put the board seams together with 5200 to give them more strength if soemone steps on them but i really did not want to do the seams with 5200 because its so hard to clean up or sand down high spots. I have a free weekend for a change, hopefully we can get a lot done if it all comes together.

Chrome replate or is new available reasonably?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2011 at 8:49pm
Originally posted by 75 stang 75 stang wrote:


Chrome replate or is new available reasonably?

This really depends on what the item is. Considering your Chris is relatively new, some NOS may be available.

If you do go looking, give Jim Staib a call


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2011 at 12:06am





It finally looks a little more like a finished boat. I need to cpes over the stain tomorrow and then start laying on the varnish and hopefully the white stripes over the weekend.

The last picture is the floor covering. Have you seen anything simular still available?
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