83 New Stringers & Floor

Anyone know the size of that set screw in the drive shaft housing, looks kike it has been stripped out and will have to drill and tap I guess.

Or strut? And I mention that because he says he's replacing bearings ?

John,
Are you replacing the cutlass bearing in the strut? If so, I typically tap the set screw holes to 1/4-28. The wall of the strut is pretty thin and the reason the 28TPI for some additional threads.

BTW, don't expect the cutlass to just come out easy. They are typically a pretty tight fit. Some need to be sawed and then curled inward. On install, many will chill the cutlass and heat the strut. The other method is to use some threaded rod with large fender washers on the ends to "press" it in.

will these do the trick? don't know how to make a link
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screw-Point-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B07CPH42J6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=UAI51A2NXYWN&dchild=1&keywords=stainless+steel+set+screws+1%2F4-28+x+3%2F16&qid=1585860494&sprefix=stainless+set+screw+1%2F4-28%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-7

Just posted that for size and stuff , gonna order a couple with drill &tap thing.
Thanks

jterr wrote: Just curious. I have been beating on the old sleeve in the shaft and not budging even after cutting. If I remove the strut will that mess up the shaft alignment??

8122pbrainard wrote: John, BTW, don't expect the cutlass to just come out easy. They are typically a pretty tight fit. Some need to be sawed and then curled inward.

Did you cut it the full length through the bore? have you bee able to curl it inward on itself making it smaller?

If you remove the strut, then yes a strut to log alignment is recommended.

John,
A diamond point or half round chisel is handy to curl the shell inwards

jterr wrote: Thanks I got it out,used a screwdriver to bend it in-all I had..

Basic cave man tools   

What fuse.?.........there's nothing there

But anyways, the hole just to the right of that hole would have the ignition switch in it and the hole your arrow is pointing at would have the 20 amp ignition fuse in it.    

jterr wrote: I meant hole . Behind the dash is 1 orange wire that goes nowhere and no end on it.I'll post a pic later, getting ready to start work shortly.

There's no end on the orange wire because there's no fuse but rather a hole.

FYI: This is the diagram I'm trying to use ,but as you see it only has 3 switches and 4 fuses on this side.
My boat has 4 switches and 5 fuses.


Need help here it keeps telling me I have already uploaded the file. I have changed the name size and still can't upload…..

I just wired the key switch so I could crank motor while sitting in barn. I havn't looked at hooking that up yet. Still can't figure out why I can't post that diagram....

WOW here it is

I'm impressed, did you color that yourself?

I'm saving that diagram for sure.


How about the Orange 10 gauge wire from the alternator connects to the ignition fuse and from the fuse the wire goes to the Batt terminal on the key then you have 20 amp fuse protection for the ignition system.

See the lower right of your picture.

Picture shows an ammeter setup but what I mentioned above should work for you.

You might be better off with the TRB diagram in the picturefor the ignition side of things.

The Orange wire might be taped off and not used and you would use the 10 gauge Red wire instead.

Ken
For some reason can't send you a PM so here is the updated Diagram