95' Nautique Project ... expanded

Red filter.....no way!   Instead of cleaning out that pesky fuel tank, how about one of these:



JQ

gun-driver wrote: Or ruffle Pete's feathers and put on an orange one.

I'm embarrassed to say we have the orange brand at the HD and it's the only brand we stock

Motorcraft@O'Reilly's

There is an HD a little over a mile down the road. But there's an O'Reilly's about a half mile closer.   Sorry Pete, but I don't really like orange either

Quick update - Connected the water tonight and started her up. Initially, I thought timing was way off and I couldn't get it to settle down. Then I remembered about the "plug" I was supposed to remove to set the initial timing. That got it and I was able to confirm my guess at stabbing the distributor was nearly perfect - that doesn't happen for me too often I also noticed a fuel leak but at first couldn't spot where it was coming from. Found it after a bit of searching - I just didn't get one of the fuel rail fittings completely tightened.

Ran the engine for 22 minutes, varying the rpm somewhat but keeping it somewhere between 1800 and 2200 for the most part complying with the cam and lifter break-in procedure Mark laid out. All in all a good first run, though there are a couple minor bugs I'll have to chase down such as the tach isn't working and I seem to have developed a leak at both exhaust manifold elbow fittings. Even this new engine has a bit of a surging problem from time to time so I am suspecting that pesky IAC is still not quite right somehow, unless someone has a better thought.

Very Nice, my 95 sometimes surges also. Never enough to bother me.
Glad it is running with no strange noises!
Mark

Running the engine a bit more and for some reason I can't get the idle down below about 750-800. I've backed the idle screw off so it's not engaging at all and confirmed the butterfly is completely closed and I assembled everything with all new gaskets - it just won't idle down any further. Any ideas?

Thanks

Guess I did not see the part about you seeing the throttle plate closed

Yep Ken, that was it .... too many colors on the engine. Painted everything black and all is good

Seriously though, yes it was at op temp of 160 +/-. However I did reuse most of my old sensors so maybe the temp sensor for the ecm is bad?
Though I don't really see the connection, but the new engine does have higher compression that a stock GT40 and the cam is a little bit more radical as well. Is there a possibility the ecm is trying to compensate and somehow causing the idle increase?

Congrats on the progress.

Thought I have heard of others changing to the higher compression P heads before with no problems. Did they go higher than what those do?

Compression change will have no influence on the ECM.
The cam change with the early Ford Fuel Injection is pretty well known to cause issues.
They can be worked around.   My buddy's son has tweaked his to work with twin turbos and it runs just fine but he had to learn a lot about the ECM to make it happen.
I would go to the Ford Mustang forum's to see how much cam the ECM can work with.
750 RPM at idle may only be 600 RPM in gear idle so as Keno suggested you might be fine as is. High idle many times is a sign of a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.
On a brand new engine be careful to not let it heat up at all and never accelerate hard till it has been at full temp for a few minutes. On a brand new engine if you accelerate hard while the block is still cold you risk scuffing a piston. The more it breaks in the more this risk fades away..   I am totally willing to run a new engine at wide open throttle after warm up but as soon as it gets close to max RPM back it off and let it cool with easier motoring.   Full throttle actually helps the new piston rings seat properly.
On these maiden voyages stop every few minutes and lift the cover to check everything out.   Check hose clamps, those heavy rubber clamps don't tighten well cold but can be tightened easy when warm while the boat is being used.
You touched so many nuts and bolts to install this new beast it is easy to find one or two that never got torqued properly. It happens.
Looking forward to the water test results.

Hi Joe

Sometimes I just amaze myself with my ability to remember stuff that's worthless to 99.9% of the world, but here's an old thread from "another site" with some good info.

It shows the cam specs for a 285 hp Indmar 351 which are probably the same or really really close to the GT-40.

Kyle on that site tells how he got those numbers by sending a cam to Comp Cams and having it measured and duplicated

It's a little better than a 240 hp 351w cam.

I'll let you judge the validity of the info

You might even see a familiar CCF name in that thread

link

Gary S wrote: I have heard Joe but not confirmed that a 40 cam specs are - 210/219 duration @.050, 115 LSA, 456/457 intake / exhaust lift

Same numbers as the link to Teamtalk I gave Joe.

PS the link has a link to the cam card in a post by Kyle

Post #13 has the link to the card.

Awesome, thanks guys this helps a lot ! The specs for the Comp cam installed are
.478 / .485 lift intake/exhaust   and 254 / 258 duration Intake/exhaust - so a bit more lift but apparently a marked increase in duration.   Hmmm ....

Comparing your numbers to the original numbers,they're both pretty mild as far as cams go.

Not a whole lot of difference.