Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis

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It sounds to me like you maybe just need to do a cable adjustment or maybe a cable end replacement 

The noise you hear would be the relays for the ECM and the fuel pumps and then the pumps running.

When you do the wiggle or jiggle, due to the slop, you eventually hit a spot where the NSS is closed up and when you turn the key, the remote solenoid/relay gets energized and passes power to your most likely "perfectly good starter"

The thread below has some good reading, it was talking about a Borg Warner transmission but all the same stuff applies to your PCM transmission and cable and linkage

link
You want to be able to look at the cable end at the throttle control because they (both the throttle and shifter ends) can wear out like the pictures in the link show,

They're not the easiest things to get to, but if an adjustment at the transmission end doesn't work for you, then you should look at those

If you put both wires on the same terminal like mentioned in the previous post, and it starts, it doesn't mean that your NSS is bad, it just means that you took it out of the circuit and it could be good or bad. Your jiggling picks up the switch, so most likely an adjustment is needed.

If you disconnect the cable at the transmission end and manually shift the transmission lever into the neutral detent and it starts every time, then the switch is good.

And the kill switch has nothing to do with the power to the starter, it affects power to the fuel pumps and ECM but the engine will still crank over.

You can start with adjustment and if all else fails, spend some money on the switch, but remember, you replaced it once before without curing the problem. 

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KENO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11115	Post Options Post Reply Quote KENO Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-24-2024 at 3:36pm
	It sounds to me like you maybe just need to do a cable adjustment or maybe a cable end replacement The noise you hear would be the relays for the ECM and the fuel pumps and then the pumps running. When you do the wiggle or jiggle, due to the slop, you eventually hit a spot where the NSS is closed up and when you turn the key, the remote solenoid/relay gets energized and passes power to your most likely "perfectly good starter" The thread below has some good reading, it was talking about a Borg Warner transmission but all the same stuff applies to your PCM transmission and cable and linkage link You want to be able to look at the cable end at the throttle control because they (both the throttle and shifter ends) can wear out like the pictures in the link show, They're not the easiest things to get to, but if an adjustment at the transmission end doesn't work for you, then you should look at those If you put both wires on the same terminal like mentioned in the previous post, and it starts, it doesn't mean that your NSS is bad, it just means that you took it out of the circuit and it could be good or bad. Your jiggling picks up the switch, so most likely an adjustment is needed. If you disconnect the cable at the transmission end and manually shift the transmission lever into the neutral detent and it starts every time, then the switch is good. And the kill switch has nothing to do with the power to the starter, it affects power to the fuel pumps and ECM but the engine will still crank over. You can start with adjustment and if all else fails, spend some money on the switch, but remember, you replaced it once before without curing the problem.

Sdunn4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: May-15-2019 Location: Ticonderoga, NY Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sdunn4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-24-2024 at 4:33pm
	Thanks for the replies! I’ll follow the procedure spelled out in the posts and links, assuming that connection of the 2 sides of the NSS gives me a clean start. I believe I did this years ago but never dialed the position in correctly at both ends of the throttle cable. Will let you know how it turns out tomorrow (cold winds and a chance of snow today!)

Sdunn4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: May-15-2019 Location: Ticonderoga, NY Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sdunn4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-25-2024 at 12:22pm
	Interesting development; I just connected both sides of the NSS together and tried to start the engine- no go. Jiggled the throttle back and forth a few times and it started right up. Any ideas for the next step? Thanks!

Sdunn4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: May-15-2019 Location: Ticonderoga, NY Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sdunn4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-25-2024 at 2:41pm
	An oddball idea- the DIM site has my switch called out (PMC # R153011) and it mentions it comes without the O ring which must be ordered separately. Hmmm- neither of my switches has this O ring. Could that allow the ball on the switch to ride just low enough into the indent so that nothing but “perfection” in the position will allow for a start when in the neutral indent location? I bet I can buy the O ring at my local hardware store . Your thoughts?

Sdunn4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: May-15-2019 Location: Ticonderoga, NY Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sdunn4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-25-2024 at 5:32pm
	I believe the problem is solved! Installed an O ring on the “new”NSS- which I had never had on there! Old switch in fact did have a (very compressed) O ring. Probably the “old” NSS was never bad to start with. Tightened the throttle cable at the transmission location and had several repeat starts in a row! I think the decreased clearance at the indent with no O ring installed, along with a little slop in the cable were the culprits. Thanks for your help!

KENO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11115	Post Options Post Reply Quote KENO Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April-25-2024 at 5:46pm
	Let's hope it's fixed. The bypassing of the switch and getting no start earlier today doesn't make sense, but if it's starting now, "you done good" Or did I mean to say "you Dunn good" ?

Bri892001 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bri892001 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-18-2024 at 10:57am
	Great job figuring out your problem! Just a reminder to try and keep this thread clean. I basically set up this thread with the idea that new problems would be worked out in their own thread, and then this thread would be to post a quick one or two sentence summary, with a link to the thread where the problem was worked out. That way this thread to could be like a quick reference index.

Bri892001 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bri892001 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-18-2024 at 2:15pm
	No Start Condition solved by fixing wire to high pressure fuel pump http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26811&title=gt40-low-pressure-fuel-pump-not-being-triggered Updated Spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit#gid=0

Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis

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