Weeding the Pumpkin patch

79nautique wrote: it will be a Martinque, Dominque or a BareFoot for the next one Timmy.

I like the extra elbow room!

If I use the thin 635 epoxy from UScomposites(what skibum used I think), will I still need the CPES?

We might need to all look for a different material for stringers down the road. The clear straight grain 8/4 douglas fir was 5.07/linear ft rough sawn. That's got to be in line with coosa and should really be used to make furniture. The fir ply I ordered isn't cheap either, but it's less than marine grade. I'm also on the east coast and douglas fir doesn't come from here. Joe, look into your crystal ball and tell us how your system works out! LOL

why are you using the CPES? if you do the job right it shouldn't matter, maybe a little over kill, but the stringers would be pretty solid and little heavy afterwards.

I hate to open a stale can of worms...
I'm thinking now that I may use the 4lb foam that Bill used instead of the 2lb handi-foam. After having spent some time in the hull, I think if I don't put the foam back, I may get canning in between the outer supports. I'm going to add at least 1 more of those on each side, but with the water pushing against the boat and the boat doing the same...
Thoughts?

79nautique wrote: why are you using the CPES? if you do the job right it shouldn't matter, maybe a little over kill, but the stringers would be pretty solid and little heavy afterwards.

It's been reccomended here for new wood going back into a hull. I was wodering about the viscosity difference between the 2...are they similar enough to eliminate the cpes?... and I'm no engineer!

Doc, am I nutz for using the pricey fir? What did you use on your baby? You are halfway closer to where douglas fir comes from...I'm sure shipping is in the price I got.

If you look at what CC used you would probably be appalled.Maybe even pine, of this I am not sure.
The point I am trying to make is this;
Any wood you use will rot if the proper steps are not followed to "SEAL" the wood. and using high dollar materials will not be a substitute for low dollar labor.
If and when I do another I will do a plywood,Kevlar sandwich. I have a lot of Kevlar fabric, and the plys would make on hell of a stringer, bottom line is not what you use but how well it is sealed.......

We used kelvar on a project and it just got ate up, guess it didn't like to be spun that fast and at that high of a temperture. Man was that thing a fuzz ball once we pulled the rotor out of that motor.

Greg, I wouldn't skip the penetrating epoxy. I feel it is a key to sealing the wood. Have you been to the Mas site and looked at their line of epoxy?
I wouldn't worry about the 2lb foam. It will be plenty stiff. The 4lb. is what they spray on roofs that are walked on.

I found MAS epoxies if that's who you meant Pete. They're still a good bit higher than US com.

Doc, i could come up with those figures, i will have to include the trans rebuild, the prop shaft, the damper, strut bearings, the $1100.00 planetary i gave away...still need the prices? 120 hours in labor at $100.00 thats 12,000.00 inm in the wrong business

eric lavine wrote: If you THREE want to talk out of school, i will embarrass you

Sounds like a threat to me, if so why???
What was the 120 hrs. of labor for?
Last question how will you embarass me, tell my Mama.........Sounds like its 5 o clock somewhere......Boat dr

yeah, BFN, re-fresh my memory too.....i forgot

lets put it this way i will list the materials and the labor and you put your price tag on it.
$1300.00 wood including poplar and glassing materials
$300.00 prop shaft and coupling matched
150.00 dripless
140.00 BBC drive plate
$40.00 strut bearings
$100.00 3" stainless
$30.00 fittings
$100.00 flex pipe
$30.00 hose
$20.00 stainless screws
$300.00 carpet
$30.00 carpet glue
$80.00 primer
$120.00 epoxy paint

Borg Warner rebuilt and tested 72c 10-18-004
normal rebuild from ffi $1000.00
out of the f-in kindness in my heart I threw in an $1100.00 planetary and a new pump $229.00 oh yeah input shaft too...$300.00

NOW for the labor
Remove and replace complete interior
remove and replace engine including alignment
remove and replace damper, and install trans
remove and replace strut bearings
remove, clean, replace gas tank
tear out complete floors and secondary stringers, *************** it it equals about 120 hours labor

now when somebody tells me I dont have the time to do my boat, this means i dont know how to do my own boat so i am going to pay you to do it, this is not my ***************ing hobby you put a price on the above Boat Doc and then I'll tell you what i charged him,
if you are feeling guilty that you didnt pay me enough you can gladly mail me a check
to ***************in shey

Do not get bent at me Eric, I was asking a question as to the cost both ways. Not what you did or what you charged , ain't none of my affair.
I replaced the primary and secondary stringers in mine, most of the same parts that you stated.I did not keep a total on my parts, nor did I keep track of the labor, a bunch.
I have never had that kinda money to throw at a project boat.I had to do it payday to payday.As far as what you charge that is all about you and your agreement with the boat owner.
With that much labor, 120 hrs.and the parts bill plus materials,it would have to sit in my drive for a long time. I can't afford your hrs. nor your hourly rate.
This is not a slam on you, just to tell you how POOR I AM>>>>>>>>>>>>boat dr