Refinishing my trailer

Matt, I just refinished one this winter and I could't imagine grinding and sanding by hand. You should be able to find someone to sandblast it for less than $400 and it's well worth it, no matter how hard you work at it you'll never get all the rust out by hand.

I went back with 2 part epoxy primer and urethane top coat. Maybe a little overkill but it was a lot of work and I didn't want to do it again.

Your method would work but I don't think it will last very long. If you're going to keep the boat for a while I would go all the way.

A wiring harness is very cheap so just rip the old one out and go back in new with heat shrink connectors. And one thing I recommend is to check the bushings on the spring hangers, mine were worn right through and had started grinding down the spring bolts.

I think you probably have carpeted wood running boards which will probably be soft. At the very least replace with new plywood coated/sealed with some resin before recarpeting.

You'll also need to replace the bunks as I doubt they'll come off in one piece, it's easier to grind the old bolts off. I used carraige bolts when replacing my bunks so I could wrap the bunks with carpet before putting them back on, gives the carpeting a more finished look than bolting the bunks on and stapling the carpet after.

I guess I should just warn you that as simple as this sounds it will be time consuming to do it right.

Oh, by the way, try to save your wooden bunks. Not easy to duplicate and install. If you are patient there will be a new product on the market in about 6 months. Bunkaps is in negotiations with Correct Craft and is planning on producing plastic rails on all their new trailers and for the old trailers. Simply remove the old wooden bunkrails and the new Bunkaps will fit on the trailer frame. Drill a few SS screws in and you're done. Also, get rid of the stupid carpet on the inside of the fenders and steps. I went to Lowes and bought 12" plastic deck board and had the wood on the inside of the fenders Rhino lined.

when putting your lights back onto the trailer after painting, don't forget to grind off the paint where the lights mount and ground. an ungrounded trailer light will do crazy things.

bill1 wrote: when putting your lights back onto the trailer after painting, don't forget to grind off the paint where the lights mount and ground. an ungrounded trailer light will do crazy things.

Bill is correct that 99% of trailer lighting problems are ground related but don't grind off the paint! It's just a spot where rust will develop. Run a ground wire to each light and to the main harness at the tongue. Use "sta-cons" ring terminals under the lights mounting/grounding stud. Don't forget the dielectric grease!

Hey Pete,
Can you paint galvanized trailers?? I found a boat I really liked once but it had that ugly grey galvanized trailer under it (Like Alan's 81'). I heard you can paint them after they've aged. Is that right??

Moj'

I'll inspect my trailer routinally and make sure any stone bruises are covered with paint. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Also, I was told that the powder coat on the springs may crack off when they flex. True or not?

Thanks,

AC.

Well crap. I was planning to do the same thing as the original poster to my trailer. Take the carpet off, re-do the steps, and sorta brush the rust spots off with a wire brush and hit it with some rustoleum. I don't really care enough about the trailer to invest time and money into it- the boat was expensive enough! Now I feel like I should have it done right, but what a waste of money.

I just finished painting/restoring my 45 year old #2? trailer. I cleaned, sanded and wire brushed all of the loose rust and dirt and painted(spray gun)with Rustoleum primer and paint. Then I replaced (made) new bunks, lights, wiring and a new axle and hubs due to the odd bearing seals. Powder coating would be the ideal solution but if the metal is prepped coccectly the paint will last a long time.

I do know one thing, the carpet will cause some serious rust to the frame. Bad design by Ramlin and will continue to be until the new rubber Bunkaps are available. I replaced my carpeted covered wood steps with plastic deck wood. (9" wide planks) I also replaced the carpet on the inside of the fenders but did not make contact with the fenders. I did the same for the bunk rails. My trailer was extremely bad so I went the whole 9 yards. As for yours, if it's only in a few spots, sand that rust down, properly prime it and paint it with some high performance Rust-Oleum enamel.