Running boat out of water

Thats how Ive always run mine BUT it is not the correct way
To Quote Gary S
The trouble with running it at home on a hose is that your putting your house or city pressure on that pump.Get a piece of hose to extend your intake hose and put in in a bucket,letting your hose from the house fill the bucket.Then see if you have a leak,you'll also see how good the raw water pump works also.

The hose should start at the pick up in the hull,then go to the raw water strainer and into the trans cooler,you could attach it at any of these points.

Towman wrote: Thats how Ive always run mine BUT it is not the correct way To Quote Gary S The trouble with running it at home on a hose is that your putting your house or city pressure on that pump.Get a piece of hose to extend your intake hose and put in in a bucket,letting your hose from the house fill the bucket.Then see if you have a leak,you'll also see how good the raw water pump works also.

Not to doubt you Tow,...but where are you getting your information. Skidim sells the Flush-Pro and it can't be used by drawing water from a bucket.

Wakemeup,

Back to your question. I do not believe using your flush connection (I think CC knew what they were doing) or hooking a hose up to the RW intake hose hurts the boat. It's an OK way to flush or test your boat in the driveway.

What people are getting at, I believe, is that you can have a bad raw water pump and you would never know it if you use a hose, because the hose pressure forces the water through the engine. I am sensitive to this as I had that exact problem and didnt know it because I always hooked up a hose directly. So I pretty religiously use the "bucket method" now.

However, now that I know I have a new and good RWP, I would not shy away from periodically running with a hose hooked up if I had some quick testing to do in the driveway.

Why do the Flush Pro Instructions say to put the water on 1/3 pressure, start engine, then increase to full pressure?   Why not just full pressure from the beginning?

Tom

tapenick wrote: Why do the Flush Pro Instructions say to put the water on 1/3 pressure, start engine, then increase to full pressure?   Why not just full pressure from the beginning? Tom

If I had to guess it's because your raw water pump is not turning with the engine off and the water pressure will force itself through the impellers. Don't see how that would hurt them though.

Towman wrote: Get a piece of hose to extend your intake hose and put in in a bucket,letting your hose from the house fill the bucket.Then see if you have a leak,you'll also see how good the raw water pump works also.

1990 Ski Nautique, Ford 351

OK I get that I have to connect a hose to the intake (I'll do it before the raw water filter), but will a standard garden hose fit??

Also - I see a connection at the front of the block, near the raw water pump, that has a standard hose connection and a shut off valve. It's near the bottom of the engine.

My father in-law (owner) told me to connect here, but how can water flow through the system this way (bypassing the raw water pump and engine block pump)??

robe, sounds like you've got a flush connection up there. Go with it. Eric says your tranny won't heat anyway. You'll just want to make sure the pump is picking it up and bringing it thru the engine.

Tim the reason I wrote that was that gentleman had a leaking circulation pump and I believe he was compounding his problem by applying house pressure.I myself am a little leary of using plastic fittings and strainers with out a shut off on the thru hull tho-

TRBenj wrote:    Why not add a simple tee in the intake line before the RWP? For $15 in parts from Home Depot, you can connect a garden hose in less than 5 seconds.

Do you put a valve before the "T"? If not, how do you keep the water from pouring out the inlet?
I have the Flush Pro on mine. It automatically shuts off the supply side from hose pressure.
Kurt

That makes a sense TRBenj the impeller would provide enough resistance to force the water out the intake grate until the motor was started and the RWP started to suck. I have always put a non return valve between the "T" and the intake grate. The valve is the most expensive piece to buy and I have often wondered if it put any restriction on the quantity of water the RWP could suck through it.

I always make sure the water pressure is not excessive before connecting to motor and starting the motor as soon as it is connected. The removal of the valve saves any worries with those issues.

So out comes the non return valve!!

TRBenj wrote:    My dad's '03 has a shut off valve, but it seems to be more trouble than its worth- he's already fried one impeller because of it.

Tim you got me laughing here,my dad did the same with his shamrock,I imagine you do it only once! That is also the advantage of the shutoff,you don't have to take the boat out of the water to change the impeller

This is a little more complicated then fittings, plungers and valves but always worked for me. It also allows me to see how well the pump is working.

link

8122pbrainard wrote: KENO wrote: Here's another "different" way to run your boat out of the water. No plunger needed. Nothing needed actually. I won't mention what state this guy is from, otherwise Pete will probably dig up somebody doing something stupid with their boat in NH. And......that would probably be pretty easy to do  link  That report and video hit my local news last week. I wonder what was in the red cooler he grabed!