How do you identify year model

If you can get up some pictures that would really help. In the mean time, have you discovered this site's "reference" section. In there you will find brochures for most of the last 40-50 years. You can do some comparing to the pictures to start zeroing in on what boat you may have.

Thanks 75, I can get pics.I have looked at the sales literature.If I had to venture a guess I would say it is a 66-69 model.It appears to have only two bucket seats in the front and no rear bench. I have searched the web for info, and this site seems to be the most informative.I am used to messing with old corvettes and though like a vette I could find a serial number range by year or something on the chrysler engine but there just isn't alot of info out there. I used to be an avid skier and always admired the old wooden nautiques I saw on the lake(although few and far between).back then I could never afford one, now I can afford but just don't have the time LOL.

Thanks Hollywood i had read somewhere that on the right side of the transom there would be a number.The boat is still in a barn and I have to remove some trees to get it out.I will go by tomorrow and take some pics also.I saw no markings on the outside of the hull, but I haven't had good lighting to view the boat.It was very difficult to get the numbers off the engine. Should the transom numbers match the tag on the stringer?

Thanks Godfather, That would be a great help.I never thought that the sn would stand for Ski Nautique. But it makes sense.Y'all have been a big help, and I appreciate the welcome.I can tell you anything about a corvette but I am new to nautiques.I thought they were all chevrolet and ford powered. The neatest thing I learned in researching these boats were some of the names like barracuda (I am assuming chyrler powered) and mustang(I assume ford powered). I do everything on my vette including alignment in my own garage, so I don't thing the rebuilding of this boat will be tough, just time consuming.I know with this site I can find answers to my tech questions.I know that soon I will probably be able to help others(at least by the time this boat is rebuilt and in the water) I want to keep it original, but I think I would like to tweek the engine with a nice low end cam,maybe a .030 overbore and a good tuning. I can't wait to hear it run.

Thanks again Godfather, So with the lack of the transom numbers(first place i looked) My assumption of 66-69 has got to be close.From what I read on Chrysler marine engines and looking at the engine itself I made late 60's assumption.It doesn't look to have been worked on by Bubba, so I would bet I could get date codes on the engine intake or block also. I looked around the throttle and there was a tag that was unreadable on the dash between the steering wheel and the throttle.I didn't think about under the dash.Thanks for all the info.

Critter, I looked at your 80 Ski Nautique.You have a beautiful boat.

Bob,
The plate you found on the stringer is the model/serial no.
And as you might guess, a guy with a name like The Godfather will in fact have the exact date of manufacture, and maybe more info on your boat. Keep watching this morning! My guess would be a mid 60s nautique, wait till you here that thing run, your going to love it

LOL Tim!

I'd be more than happy to help with your stringer project, please ask whatever. Bob, maybe you could help me with my late ignition timing on my 454?

79nautique wrote: you still haven't got the timing light out, come on get on the ball.

I've had the timing light out many times...along with the vacuum gauge, comp tester, and volt meter. Everywhere I've looked says that low, steady vacuum indicates a leak at the intake, ignition problem, or late valve timing. I believe I eliminated the 1st two.

79nautique wrote: By chance did you use a degree wheel to degree the cam correctly on the install?

I didn't, but that's next. I should've asked in the first place because the indicator marks are different on this gear set.

I'm stomping all over this guy's thread...I'll start a new 1 when I feel like messing with it again. Last time I took it apart on the water; what a PITA. It's running well enough to ride this w/e, and then it'll have to come out anyway.

Thanks guy's I appreciate all the help. Buffalo run that 454's balancer around till the line on the balancer lines uo with the 0 mark on the timing marker. Verify that both of the #1 valves are closed(take off the right side valve cover if you are looking at the engine from the front)this will let you look at the rockers to verify.Then remove the cap and make sure that the rotor is pointing in close proximity to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.If all of this is correct take a dial up timing light (you can dial in the advance)dissconnect the vacuum advance if any, and rev the engine to 2500 RPM. Set the timing to 36 degrees total timing at 2500 RPM, this should give you around 1o-12 degrees advance at idle.Make sure when you rev the engine that all timing(centrifigul advance)is in around 2,000-2,500. The first steps should verify cam timing without degreeing. You can buy keys to advance the crank gear forward or back about 4 degrees if neccesary. With a low vacuum reading at idle you either have too much duration(high rpm cam such as l88 427 cam).Do you know what the cam specs are?I tuned a 70 chevelle for a friend last week that had been cloned into an ss454. He had the l88 cam and would pull 12 hg at idle I set the total timing to 38 degrees(some engines will take this with out pinging) I set his holley carb idle screws to maximum vacuum and the vacuum came up to about 17.I then set the idle down to 750, which lowered vacuum of course.I would recommend buying a mr gasket advance curve kit, reuse your old weights(they are better than the mr gasket weights and install one light and one medium spring(you can experiment with these).this combination of springs should give you a good advance curve out of the box. I am used to tuning cars but I would imagine boats are the same. we all want low end torque on the street and I would imagine a boat would be the same, I have had outboards and I have built them and tuned them, but I wasn't as knowledgeable back then.If your cam timing is off you should be able to compensate at the distributor(moving one tooth advanced or retarded.I am more than happy to swap info, I am not a woodworker, but I am fixin to be one.I figured that with a name like Godfather I was going to get information I couldn't refuse LOL.I am here to help guys and believe me I will ask for help. I learn something new everyday.Try my idea Buffalo and let me know how it comes out.Is there any water in Lanier, I was on the lake in marck demolishing a house up off of 369(down some side streets) and the water looked to be about 15' down. Allatoona is down a little right now but It seemed that they slowed the outflow down and had a pretty good pool this summer, the worst summer level I ever saw on allatoona was the summer of 86 , 88 got kinda low too.

Bob Buffalo has been chasing the problem for a while now on is fresh rebuild so it's a little fustrating to him and it's funning you mention the curve profile, sounds like something I said some time ago on the Topic.

But Dave aka The GodFather is our resident inside man at Correct Craft for all of us Fans of these great boats so try and track down the ID tag on the stringer and post the Info and he will have more information than you could ever ask for as he is the GODFATHER OF CC .

post some picture too if you can that will narrow it down some as a lot here have a pretty good eye for detail and it won't tak but a few hours to figure out exactly what you have.

Hello Bobzilla, well you asked..
Your boat was built on 2/09/1967.

The engine serial number is 105352, 210 Chrysler. I hope this will help you.

Join the club now you owe me..

"Someday, and that day may never come, I'll call upon you to do a service for me." Don Corleone, the Godfather.

BKH

The Godfather wrote: Hello Bobzilla, well you asked.. Your boat was built on 2/09/1967. The engine serial number is 105352, 210 Chrysler. I hope this will help you. Join the club now you owe me..

Do I need to put some concrete shoes on somebody LOL? Thank you Godfather I'm glad to be a member of the "family" and that is the serial number on the tag. I am pretty good at dating houses that I tear down, even when property taxes say otherwise. I thought like I said before that it was a 66-69 by looking at the engine and the sales brochures.The boat is light blue/maybe turquoise on top with a white hull.I was thinking of making it red/white or yellow/white. what colors were available from the factory? I want to keep it as original as possible.the picture links are right on except the Correct Craft script at the rear on the sides of the hull are missing(no holes either) and the transom has nothing on it.the only thing that told me it was a Correct craft was the ski Nautique script on the dash.