My new 2001 and my first!

Well after a long trip back from Florida I have my first 2001 in the garage! Yes it is in 2001 pieces and needs to go back together but that just makes it all more exciting! I will take some pics and post them once I get all the stuff unloaded. Here is what I got for $3000!

• 1983 2001 Hull - Damaged during a hurricane. The hull damage has already been repaired. The floor and secondary stringers have been removed. Stingers and floor still need to be replaced.
• PCM 330 Engine - 100 Hours...appears to be in great shape. Not frozen and was winterized. Came out of a SAN 210. Already has the servo and paddle wheel for perfect pass. Also has the trans from the 210.
• Wiring Harness for the engine
• Engine Dome and Captains Seat from the 210
• Dash from the 210 with all white gauges
• 6 Polk Audio Speakers from the 210 including 2 pods
• Hot water shower
• CC Trailer in great shape...made the 12 hour ride home no problem
• New Rolls of Grey Carpet
• NEW Wake board tower still wrapped up plus all the hardware
• 3 different Control lines
• (2) 3 blade props and a 4 blade 454 ACME prop
• Two drive shafts including a new tapered shaft
• All the instruments in the 2001 dash are in great condition
• Fuel Tank
• Fuel Lines
• Tilt Steering Wheel from the 210
• Keyless Push button ignition

The list just goes on and on. He had a lot of stuff. He pretty much had everything he could of salvaged from the 210 plus 100 times more stuff than I could ever use. I have pretty much everything to put the boat back together. Now I just need to figure it all out. It is like having a jig saw puzzle without the picture on the box! He also gave me two 5 gallons buckets of resin and a box of fiberglass mat and a bunch of rollers.

I am also contemplating if I should do the stinger and floor work myself. I found a shop nearby that said they would do it for $2300. I figure if I spend $1500 on materials then that is only $800 for the actual work. Seems pretty good to me. I have a CCfan member who is going to come over and help me figure out my next step. I love doing the mechanical and upholstery work but fiberglass work is not appealing to me.

Wish me luck and as I progress in the rebuild I will be sure to post some pics!

Later!

Aka

Sweet deal!

Wow. Screaming deal. You may just have 2 jigsaw puzzles to put together. The motor alone is worth that.

Pics! You lucky fish......congrats on your find and purchase.

I will get some pics today. The trans is an inline transmission so now that I think of it I guess it couldn't have come out of a 210 or it would be a VDrive huh?

He was a boat claims adjuster and was the first to see the 2001 and the Nautique the engine came out of after the storm. When they were both declared totaled he made an offer on both. He said he just ran out of time on trying to rebuild the 2001 and his wife wanted all the parts out of the garage.

I will post pics soon. All the parts are still loaded in the boat.

akabulla wrote: I am also contemplating if I should do the stinger and floor work myself. I found a shop nearby that said they would do it for $2300. I figure if I spend $1500 on materials then that is only $800 for the actual work. Seems pretty good to me.

I would be very concerned about the quality of the job that you would get for that amount of money. I sure as hell wouldnt touch a stringer/floor job for $800! I dont see how anyone could put in the time required for a quality job at that price. I guarantee that they'd be skimping on materials or cutting corners (or likely, both). Ive never priced a job myself, but the quotes Ive heard from others here have been at least twice that amount. Proceed with caution!

Looks like you got a pretty good deal with all the parts thrown in.

Luchog wrote: If you're planning a total rebuild on the boat and plan on using it for wakeboarding I'd recomend getting a PCM 1.23:1, the reduction allows the engine to rev higher at boarding speeds and it pulls much better.

Luciano, thats not exactly true. At running speeds, the reduction tranny will have the engine running similar RPM's as the 1:1 boats (30mph = 3,000 RPM) because you typically run a much larger prop on the 1.23 (14x16 is stock instead of the 13x13). The advantage you'll see with the reduction is at the holeshot- the initial prop slip will have the engine turning faster (which equals more power) than the 1:1. Stock vs. stock, I got an instant 3000-3200rpm out of the hole on my 240hp '90 with the 1.23, whereas my 1:1 302 (220hp) boats only get ~2400rpm.

I do recommend finding a 1.23 tranny though- that will be the only way that you can run a RH prop with the LH 330excal. Its doubtful any of the props that the boat came with will be ideal, though- neither the 210 nor the stock '83 would have used the prop you'll want for that powertrain combo.

Tr, I will explain you my point of view based on my own experience.

when you're wakeboarding and loading the boat you want more rpms to get a smoother pull and keeping speed better, from my experience this engines pull better between 2600-3200rpm.
With my setup 1:1 gear, 240-255HP engine and Acme 542 I get 21mph at 2250rpm with not much load, I can feel the engine is not that strong there and it wants to go up, thing is I get 23mph at 2400rpm and it's just too much speed for wakeboarding. If I drop the throttle to 2600 the engine runs pretty strong and I see 25-26mph, it's ok for cruising but too much for boarding. Perhaps if I load the hell out of the boat numbers will come closer to what I expect.

On the correctly propped 1.23:1 boats I've been on 3000rpms at 21mph is not an issue to accomplish, and the boat handled A LOT of weight at 3200 keeping the same speed.
Perhaps not the fasters of boats but you could get a decent 40mph too.

Tr, sorry but we no longer have that boat available, I remember we had the original OJ prop, I think it was the 422 and we rode at 3000rpm, when we switched to the 4 blade prop recommended for wakeboarding we saw 3200 and it spun like hell when coming out of the hole.
I'm going from memory but this boat (95' SN GT40 Pro Boss) topped at 4800rpm.

Definitly it changes with what anyone call "correctly propped" but that again has to do with the use of the boat, dont you think?

eric lavine wrote: and remember the 1.23 swaps your rotation.....is the engine a lefty or righty...it should say on the tag

The Excal 330 is a lefty- so he wants to swap the direction of rotation to use a RH prop.

Sorry Seb, unless youre running extreme amounts of ballast, I just dont see a 900-1100rpm difference between speed and rpm at normal cruising speeds. Even with an extraordinary amount of ballast that seems pretty far out of whack- I would have thought that a prop change would be in order to overturn by that much. Only getting 40mph at 4800 RPM would support that theory- that boat should have been good for 46-48mph at that RPM.

No problem kapla

I took a better look at all the parts and the dash, all the parts and the engine came out of a 2004 Super Air. Much like this one: Super Air 2004

Here are some picks I have so far as I started to unload the boat today.



Seats and Wakeboard Tower:


Lots of parts still to unload


Engine


Seat and Engine Cover


Repaired Section


Dash, Speakers, Extra Bench and Engine Covers. There is also a keyless ignition system



I will post some more pics as I get the rest of the stuff out!

eric lavine wrote: your lucky my flight was cancelled ...one of the members in Georgia is looking to do some stringer work...he does superb work and would be worth the trip for you. congratulations on a nice purchase, did he ever say why he needed to sell the boat?

Eric do you know who in GA might be interested in doing my stringer repair?

You must have parts from 3 boats to have that motorbox, 2 ignition switches, and 2 engine shrouds.

yep call me and I'll give you his number 877-369-6693   eric

This is my favorite redone!

Sweet 84

I am going to base my seat off the design he has in it and probably do the dash the same way since he has the same white gauges!

Luch,
   I would guess that 99% of what your seeing has to do with speed of the boat and not the rpm of the engine. Those wakeboarding speeds are right in the area where the boat is just on plane a good pull can bring you off plane which dramatically brings down speed. Once your up to 25-26 even a hard pull is only going to slow you down a bit.
   Now with a lot of wieght certainly a prop with less pitch will help, but the only sure fire cure is a perfect pass with a paddle wheel. I had a little 302 in my 83 2001 and with a 1:1 transmission I had plenty of power to pull big boarders (a few of these guys met my friend dan at LG hes a pretty solid 270) at 20-21mph and 2000-2100 rpm rock steady with a perfect pass and 900lbs water and a few guys. I have a 1.26:1 trans in the 83 now and I wakeboard at about 2100 rpm and 23.7 mph well when the boat is running that is..