What type valve spring compressor

Hey guys - I am planning on replacing my valve stem seals this spring. I saw plug fouling that an experienced friend attributes to 20 yr old valve seals. I am planning on doing this with heads on & air pressure in cyl. I was looking for a valve spring compressor & see several types, ranging from $5 to over $100.

What kind of tool do you recommend?   One that uses the rocker stud?

PS - Poly-acrylate or viton seals??

Thanks critter. Those tong types are less expensive ($20), so that's what I will get. Probably will only use it once. Will be too old to change valve stem seals in another 20 years!

Thanks for the offer on tool & idea on the rope. The rope trick will save me from making an adapter from a spark plug. I just bought a spring compressor from ebay so I am good to go there.

Thanks anyway!

Does anyone have a recommendation on what grade seal to buy? Nitrile is the lowest cost & I assume to be avoided. Poly-Acrylate is the next step up in heat resistance - I think this is what NAPA calls 'premium' grade. You can also get Viton but do we need that at our operating temps? It is about 2X the cost.

There is still plenty of time to over-analyze this before spring!

Eric,
I've thought of calling a bunch of times - BUT...
                     Got It , Thanks again

SNobsessed wrote: Hey guys - I am planning on replacing my valve stem seals this spring. I saw plug fouling that an experienced friend attributes to 20 yr old valve seals. ??

Does it blow blue smoke when started after sitting. If you're fouling plugs you may have other issues, I'd perform compression and leak down tests to get a feel for the condition of your engine first. How many hours?

well enjoy waisting your time won't cost much, if it was the valve guide seal then it wouldn't foul the plug as it would burn off, now if the rings are starting to go then it'll never burn off the oil like it does on a bad valve guide seal.


But oh lets be a smart ass and say the compression is all fine and dandy and I'm full of crap,

good glad you mouthed off and stuck your foot in your mouth like always,

your compression test results have nothing to do with in determinding if the oil rings begining to go, creating additional blow-by and plug fouling.

Mike it's been my experince that usually happens when the oil ring is worn and not just from the guide's seal. Leaking past the valve guide seal ultimately the problem usually lies with clogged oil returns in the heads that raise the nornmal oil level in the heads above the seals causing them to leak when sitting, otherwise that seal see's very little oil on it and usually it's the intake side that is the problem as oil get's sucked through it on the intake stroke. Problem is unless it's been quite some time and the guide is worn as well it doesn't leak enough to fowl the plug, enough to blow blue smoke cold, but if the guides bad as well then yes it could let enough oil in to fowl the plug.

But again it's still a waiste of time because if it's leaking that much to fowl the plug, then the guides are shot as well as the seal is and it's time to have the heads redone, now cheaping out and replacing just the seal is only a band-aid at best that won't last long.


Besides show me a HD that doesn't burn or leak oil?

Thanks guys, will cheap out & do the minimum, as the engine is performing well & I didn't even know the plug had fouled again until I took it out at winterization.

I know you don't like my plan, but it is the best I can do this year.

If I had the money I would do the full rebuild, but the economy has taken it's toll on me too.

I appreciate the advice you all have provided.

Thanks for that advice '79. I will try your idea of a hotter plug. The cylinder can't be in very bad shape as it was not missing that I could notice.

I agree not to fix it if it isn't broke. I have had times when it wasn't broke until after I 'fixed' it!

I am lucky to get the advice of experts like you on this site.