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Valvoline VR1 racing oil in name only

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2009 at 9:56pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

what is it that you call snake oils?=


Luch,
"Snake oil" is a slang term given to substances that are doubtful in there performance. The term came from the "Wild West" days in the US when traveling salesmen roamed from town to town selling tonics that were nothing more than alcohol and opiates.

I ran into our lubricate supplier at the plant this afternoon and again asked him about the zinc additives. He again told me that even though there are other compounds that enhance lubrication properties of oils, nothing beats the zincs. It has been used for years and has a proven track record. Our severe duty deep drawing lubes have lots of it!!

I'm sticking with Valvolene VR1 and not trust a "snake oil".


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2009 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

what is it that you call snake oils?=

Snake Oil. n.
1. A worthless preparation fraudulently peddled as a cure for many ills.
2. Speech or writing intended to deceive; humbug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:16pm
Pete,
    This question has been asked but nobody has answer it. VR1 comes in different grades now, 10W-30, 30, 40, 50, 60. I am using 20W-50. The oil preassure seems high and I wonder if I should consider other grades like 10W-30 or a straight weight on my next oil change.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:37pm
Allright guys, I get the whole snake oil thing, what I dont understand yet is how do you determine that a certain product, such as the MPC MT-10 in this case is uneffective or harmfull for the engine???

After I did the treatment on my engine, wich is adding 10% of the crankcase oil capacity (I added less) on a warm engine, my iddle went 200rpms higher and the engine overall felt smoother on the whole rpm range. I have put over 150 hours on my engine since, and made 2 oil/filter changes. Oil pressure drops to 35 only when the oil is next to a change, 55-60 while under way.
I use the boat 2-3 days a week on winter and 5-6 days a week on summer.

I'd normally use a 15w40 Diesel oil, but the PO put Mobile 1 straight 40 on this engine and I chose to keep using it, just different brand, because I feared that a multigraded oil detergent package could carbon clean the engine and mess things up.

Only mechanical issues with this engine so far (knock on wood)have been the advance weights at the distributor, one valve seat broke a few months ago but I'd not dare saying it had anything to do with lubrication but on the fact that the heads were never fully rebuilt as the rest of the engine was. Now they are too.
While the heads were apart, I checked the tappets and found absolutely no marks or signs of wear, I wonder if I could have taken a look at the cam lobes also.

This is a personal first hand experience with this product (MPC MT-10), maybe time will prove me wrong, so far it has worked well in my opinion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:59pm
Anthony,
Want do you consider a high oil pressure? Have you checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge T'd in at the sender?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2009 at 1:17am
I think the oil pressure is 60-70psi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2009 at 1:17am
But the question is should I consider a lower weight VR1 oil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2009 at 2:01am
OK, might as well jump into the fray (Deja Vu). I discussed mixing different weight oils with my local lubrication engineer & he said it was perfectly OK to mix 10W30 with 20W50. So I mix 50/50 so the oil pressure isn't quite so high. Engine hasn't blown yet, have my fingers crossed he is right!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2009 at 8:10pm
Ok guys so you all have me very, very scared. So being the crazy engineer turned marketing guy, I have poured over A LOT of websites, looking for the real deal. I found a guy on www.stevesnovasite.com forum (veno) who actually paid for a couple of independent testing companies to test different oils. One of his threads is REALLY long and after reading through the whole thing, I feel very confident in his data. Unfortunately, he never summarized it into something that tied it all together. Don't get me wrong he comes up with conclusions and recommendations, but not with the relevant numbers attached. So I have gone ahead and done that and the information is attached here.



You will see that most of the more popular oils discussed here (Rotella T, VR1, Mobile1) tested in the 1200 to 1600 ppm range. I believe this is an acceptable range to provide protection for normal use on our engines. Cam break in is another story and you might want to use an additive. The good news most of this data was obtained in 2008 so it is what I would call relatively recent. Hope this is helpful.

Steve

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2009 at 8:16pm
Oh yeah, I should probably post his summary:

Oils suitable for breakin……..that are available. with enough Zinc and Phophorus.. OILS LISTED BY ALPHABETICAL ORDER NOT BY QUALITY or quantity of content.

Brad penn break in oil grp2
Joe Gibbs break in oil grp2
Pennzoil GT performance. All weights. grp2
Shell Rotela T 30wt, 40wt, 15W40wt. grp2
Starbright 30Wt grp2
Starbright 40Wt (pending) grp2
Valvoline VR1.. all weights grp2
.
I like the Rotela because of the extra dispersant's and detergents… it creates a higher viscous… and will suspend small particles I also like the StarBright because of the 1600ppm of zinc and is as cheap as Rotela

Best diesel oil test ever...
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf

OILS suitable for street High performance use with enough Zinc and Phosphorus for flat cams and High spring rates. Up to 150lbs seat pressure.

Brad Penn all weights grp2
Castrol syntec 20W50 for older cars grp3
Champion XPS 20W50 grp3 syn
Joe Gibbs oils grp??
Mobil1 15W50 gold cap and silver cap. grp4 syn
Mobil1 Turbo diesel truck grp4 syn
Mogil1 racing grp4 syn
Pennzoil GT 25W50 grp2
Royal Purple racing oils Grp5 syn
Shell Rotela T 30wt, 40wt, 15W40wt. grp2
Quaker State Q horse power 10w60 only grp 3 syn
Valvoline VR1 all weights grp2

TRACK/RACE only.

Brad Penn all weights grp2
Champion XPS 20W50 grp3 syn.
Joe Gibbs oils grp??
Mobil1 racing grp4 syn
Pennzoil GT all weights grp2
Royal Purple racing oil all weights grp5 syn
Quaker State Q RACING all weights…syn
Valvoline VR1 all weights grp2
Valvoline synthetic racing all weights grp?
Valvoline conventional NSL all weights grp2


And a few others have a select few oils.. I have not investigated them.. as they are some what hard to get. and saw no real need to..

Oils that are generally not good for Flat tappet cams are the API SM with the ILSAC GF3 and ILSAC GF4 ratings... the GF3 rating is 1000ppm or less of zinc, while the GF4 is 800ppm zinc or less.. which is the current rating as of 11/2007

the energy saving oils that fall in the 0Wto40, like 0w5, 0w10, 0w20, 0w30, 10w30, 10w40, 5w20, 5w30, are all very low in zinc to the tune of .800ppm or less...be sure to look for the ILSAC GF3/4 rating... GF3 GF4 is the clue to low zinc content... all the VOA's I have seen on these type of oils have all been below 800ppm with most in the 600 range


And this is the link to the thread if you want to read through the whole thing.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80715&highlight=zddp

(If you do decide to read it, spend the time to read the WHOLE thing, because he questions to the point of giving up on some oils (like VR1) before he finishes or completes his testing and you can't really jump to the end cause you miss a lot of his analysis on the "whats & why's")
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2011 at 8:44pm
Brain......melting....eyes.....burning...
So, for my 1989 2001 SN with stock 351 I would be right in the safe zone with Rotella straight 40, Valvolene Vr1 straight 40 or Vr1 20w50 AND a filter other than Fram?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 12:55am
So this is the stuff I want?
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=SHR550019904_0006509994&An=0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 1:49pm
Tom - That will do it & is the cheapest option for good oil with high ZPPD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:06pm
Originally posted by seacamper seacamper wrote:

So this is the stuff I want?
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=SHR550019904_0006509994&An=0

Link to Napa/oil


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daddyo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:32pm
I think this info is out of date on the zddp. The rotella single weights no longer have the higher amounts. waterdog (i think) did an analysis in another post and it's the 15-40 that has the higher amount now. want to say it was in the 1200ppm range. The single wt rotella was under 900, if i remember correctly. maybe he can comment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:38pm
How about the VR1 straight 40?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:59pm
Thats what I run (VR-1 40)as recommended in the manual (straight 40w). It has 1389 ppm ZDDP. Brad Penn 40W is a little cheaper if you can find it. It is1400 pom ZDDP. Both are right in the sweet spot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 3:04pm
Oh that is VR-1 Racing. Usually in stock at Napa or they can order and have it next day. I also use the Napa gold filter. Its ranked high in a number of filter tests referenced here on CCF or in Consumer Reports. One stop shopping!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2011 at 9:41pm
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Oh that is VR-1 Racing. Usually in stock at Napa or they can order and have it next day. I also use the Napa gold filter. Its ranked high in a number of filter tests referenced here on CCF or in Consumer Reports. One stop shopping!

Thanks Guys. That was a very educational thread. So on a different note, Dexron Mercron lll is good to flush and replace the 20w in the 1:23 transmission?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2011 at 9:56am
yes, i recently pulled a borg apart and found the facings on the reverse clutch plates came right off, just as if it came unglued, this was a first and i couldnt isolate it to a plate problem. i did notice though the oil was a touch thicker and felt more of a lucas type oil maybe even a synthetic, whatever it was i felt it had an additive that made the plates unglue.
but for the borgs and the pcms, dexron/mercon or compatible
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2011 at 2:34pm
Thanks Eric, I was hoping you would chime in.
Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2011 at 3:56am
Kapla, last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets. As to why or if gt40 marine motors are not roller motors,I don't know. They should be. And if not you can buy a roller conversion kit.

The ford diesel oil has high levels of zddp too.
If I ever get a gm powered boat, it will get ford oil, ford oil filters, and autolite plugs. That will help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2011 at 7:39pm
Tom..I had to go the first page of the thread , back in 2009 to know what where you answering me..LOL...
I found here the VR-1 20w-50 and been using it since then..3 oil changes since rebuilt....
As for going roller on my 351w...nice upgrade but not likely to spend $500 to do it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2011 at 8:26pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets.


I don't know when you checked but it's not shown anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2011 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets.


I don't know when you checked but it's not shown anymore.

Kev,
Don't worry, a Ford engine would NEVER give Tom any problems even if he ran water instead of oil in the crankcase!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2011 at 12:23am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets.


I don't know when you checked but it's not shown anymore.

Kev,
Don't worry, a Ford engine would NEVER give Tom any problems even if he ran water instead of oil in the crankcase!



Exactly.      
luc,   yeah I saw that.    As far as the zddp in castrol, if you look enough you can find the ratings. What I saw was that castrol across their line had very good numbers, better than most other oils. I'll see if I have those bookmarked on my PC.   I definitely don’t have them on my android.... yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2011 at 9:01am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

As far as the zddp in castrol, if you look enough you can find the ratings. What I saw was that castrol across their line had very good numbers, better than most other oils. I'll see if I have those bookmarked on my PC.   I definitely don’t have them on my android.... yet.

Due to all the fairly recent changes with oils, the documentation must be dated to back up your claims. You do not want to make the same mistake that was done earlier in this thread. It wouldn't help your image........again!!!    


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

As far as the zddp in castrol, if you look enough you can find the ratings. What I saw was that castrol across their line had very good numbers, better than most other oils. I'll see if I have those bookmarked on my PC.   I definitely don’t have them on my android.... yet.

Due to all the fairly recent changes with oils, the documentation must be dated to back up your claims. You do not want to make the same mistake that was done earlier in this thread. It wouldn't help your image........again!!!    


This was recent news regarding the castrol. I'm pretty sure I posted the link in a different thread.

I never said anything in this thread that wasn't correct .....I've seen a few incorrect things posted by others though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:30pm
Show us the data, or the link, but I think you are mistaken ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:54pm
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:


This was recent news regarding the castrol. I'm pretty sure I posted the link in a different thread.

I never said anything in this thread that wasn't correct .....I've seen a few incorrect things posted by others though.

Come on Tom! You've got to do better than just the above!!
Did you miss this:
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets.


I don't know when you checked but it's not shown anymore.


ADD?

Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Show us the data, or the link, but I think you are mistaken ...

I agree - where's the data/link proof???


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