new Acme 1442 installed |
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slalomjunky
Groupie Joined: August-25-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Posted: May-03-2009 at 3:41am |
Any one have any suggestions on getting the castle nut to index properly once the prop is torqued on the shaft? I Installed a new 1442 today on my 1994 ski and have run into a problem of not being able to get the cotter pin in since the hole in the shaft and the slots in the nut don't line up. I followed the instructions form Acme that came with the prop. Put the prop on with out the key and then marked the shaft. Then put the key in and reinstalled the prop. It seem to seat very nicely and snugged right to the mark. The instructions said not to torque passed 30 pounds. well 25 pds caused the hole to be coved by the nut. Going to 30 did not change a thing and I cannot get a cotter pin in. Are there any shim washers that can be used to get the hole and nut to line up with the proper torque? I did have to use a block of wood to hold the prop any problem with this? Do you think lapping the prop would change enough to align better? How tight should the nut be torqued? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Utah '94 Ski, '03 Malibu SS LXI
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M3Fan
Grand Poobah Joined: October-22-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3185 |
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You could just use a lock nut instead of a castle nut. I had the same problem with the castle nut and Acme on my boat.
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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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SJ - I suggest doing the lapping step. It doesn't cost much, doesn't take much time, & assures that your prop won't come off. The castle nut really is just a 'backup' & doesn't need to be tight against the prop.
It's possible that lapping would remove enough high spots that the prop will go on little further & your cotter pin will line up as torqued. |
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BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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After you lap it, put a drop of oil behind the castle nut before you torque it.
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hotboat
Gold Member Joined: March-28-2009 Location: Conn Lake Pa Status: Offline Points: 814 |
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if you use a lock nut-dont use a stainless one
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Brian
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slalomjunky
Groupie Joined: August-25-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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thanks for the suggestions. If I lap and it still doesn't line up should I back the nut back off so the cotterpin fits? That doesn't seem right as it seems the prop could loosen if you hit reverse hard as there would not be any forward pressure on the hub face of the prop to keep it from moving back down the taper. If I go the route of a brass nylock nut are you for going the cotter pin all together?
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Utah '94 Ski, '03 Malibu SS LXI
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Kerry,
I don't see that you lapped the new prop on. You should have so give it a try. If the cotter pin still won't go in and you're uncomfortable with backing off the nut, Go with the brass nylock. You must have missed the numerous times I've mentioned that a proper fit prop is held on by the taper and the reason pullers are needed to remove them. I've backed off nuts so the cotter will go in many times. Just incase you what to take a look at lapping, here's proper prop installation |
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