77 graphics resto

Jeff, the blue wont run into the white when you buff it out. Just be careful when going over the paint- it wont hold up as well as the gel (which is much harder).

On/Off is good stuff- it should take any stain right off the gel. Just dont let it sit at all on any painted surface- like the trailer! Rinse thoroughly.

Hey Tim, so it seems like I'm on the right track than hua?

By the way, a few months ago I got an e-mail from this guy that lives by me saying he has a boat like mine. Turns out to be your uncle Todd! Even beter yet...we work at the same place! Small world hua.

Anyway, how would you recomend going about filling all of the 1/8" holes the PO drilled down the side of the boat and across the transom for snaps for a cover? There are about 6 or 7 per side. I have some West Systems left over from my pylon repair. I stoped in West Marine yesterday and they had this gel coat filler stuff. Ideas?

It's not really a shadow per se, it's outlined around all the letters. Looks like it was hand done.

Although my side lettering is mostly good, I really should start on the transom lettering which doesn't have any outline.

Let me know how it goes because I'm sure you'll get to it sooner than me.

Are you going to use the rustoleum like the original paint?

Mark, that was the next question I was going to put out there. Unless someone convinces me otherwise I think I am going with the Rustolium. Mostly in part because both Jeff Roach from Adirondack Marine and Woody both said that's what they would do and have done in the past with much success. Just thin it down with Acetone and spray away. That's what I used in my trailer and it worked out very well. At the time I couldn't seem to justify spending upwards of 200 dollars on good epoxy paint for a trailer.   I almost hate to admit that it seams almost as durable if not more than the PPG Concept paint that I have used quite a bit in the past. And a whole lot cheaper too!

So I took the boat out for the first time yesterday. Looking at the transom, the rear lettering is outlined as well.

I need to figure out a way to make a mask, actually 2, one for the solid lettering and one for the outline.

The transom needs to be wet sanded and polished and then re-lettered. It's not as shiny as the sides.

Pete, you are defiantly right about how long it takes for rustoleum to dry using mineral spirits as a thinner. When I decided to go that route when I did my trailer I noticed that Lowes carried two types of Rustoleum, professional and the regular stuff. One of them says to use acetone and the other spirits (can't recall which is which) but anyway I couldn't find anyone at the time who could tell me what the difference was. So since I knew I already had a gallon of mineral spirits at home I went with that one. It took almost a week to dry to the point where I felt I could handle the trailer without leaving fingerprints in the paint. I mentioned acetone only because that's what Woody said he used but I will take your advice on the toluene. I'm a little leary to use other chemicals if they are not in black and white on the can unless I talk to people like yourself who have done it before.
As far as the air brush goes, should I buy a good one or would a cheapy get the job done for the shadow? I don't normally cheap out on tools but I don't see much air brushing in my future. The shadowing from the factory looks far from perfect anyhow.
Thanks for the advice!

An airbrush would take forever. You need a touch up gun to do that much spraying.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66871

Here are a few before pic's of where I am at. By the way I used that ON AND OFF to remove the waterline below the graphics and that stuff is like magic... I have never gotten such results so fast without some sort of elbow grease. Notice the test spot. That only sat for about two minutes!

I know what part you're refering to. I have three air brushes, it will take a while to spray the shadowing with an air brush. Are you going to use frisket? It will make everything a lot easier, and the best masking tape is "The Edge" by 3M.

By the way I used that ON AND OFF to remove the waterline below the graphics and that stuff is like magic... I have never gotten such results so fast without some sort of elbow grease. Notice the test spot. That only sat for about two minutes!



Where could I get the ON AND OFF? I have never seen the product. Keep the pics and process coming I would like to attempt my graphics someday.

I don't think you're crazy at all, I think they were originally brushed on in the first place.

I would look for 3M fine line masking tape in autobody or parts stores.

I think you're chance of bleeding is less than the green or blue tape.

I so much want to redo the lettering and graphics on my 76 tique need to have some gel coat repair done on the top back corners of the boat and a few spots where it has been scratched should i have the gel coat repaired first and then do the lettering? I still doing my trailer so not sure i will tackle the letters till I see how well my paint job on the trailer comes out. I also went with the rustoleum paint from lowes it seams to do a very nice job on the trailer. The on/off stuff looks like it works very well where can i find some?

Dt, unless your gel coat repair is close to your graphics you will be fine doing your graphics first. I had about 20 1/8" holes that the previous owner drilled down the sides and across the transom for a cover that were on or close to my graphics. I filled each hole with West Systems epoxy pushing it in with my finger to make a recess for my gel coat repair to sit in. Mixed up the filler and tinted it to match the color,let it dry and wet sanded it with 600 than 800 grit than buffed it out with 3M compound using a buffer around 1500 rpm. Came out extremely well. I am still in the masking phase but I will post some pics after it comes off. I'm hoping to spray one day next week. By the way I decided to mask each letter individually with the fine line instead of cuting a stencil with an exato for 2 reasons. 1) no mater how hard I tried there was no way to get the paper to lay perfectly flat even though they claim it is flexible. 2) using the tape you have more control over your lines. If you don't like it, pull the tape up and try again as where with the tracing tape you get one shot. Using 1/8 tape is key for making real tight curves like inside your q's and a's. I did however use the paper to go over everything after I did the fine line than cut out each letter cutting carefully on the fine line tape as not to cut through it. That made a really nice mask for around the letters. I will try to post some progress pics when I get home from work today.
As for the On and Off I bought mine at West marine. I noticed that the local marina had it as well.