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It’s Too Long

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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-11-2009 at 4:43pm
I am wondering what tool you people use to remove the oil drain plug on a vintage CC. I removed mine once and I was apparently more flexible then. Since then I have been using a vacuum device to suck the oil out through the dipstick. My boat has been out of the water since before Ike and the oil is ugly. I would very much like to do a complete drain, refill, and drain again.

Last night my frustration lead me to start thinking about where my 3" hole saw was located so I could bore a hole through bottom of the boat right under the drain plug. I decided I am not good enough with fiberglass to repair it.

I have determined that the drain plug requires a 7/8" wrench or socket. 12 points is a must because of the confined space.

My 1/2" ratchet is too long. My 3/8" ratchet is too short. Anyone try a flexible extension? What about ratchet wrenches?

Whatever it is has to be 12 points and short.

Ideas?
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2009 at 4:47pm
I would use a ratchet wrench.
I have a drain hose installed that only requires me to remove the plug at the end that is under the boat for draining.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2009 at 5:15pm
You could lift the back end and replace the plug with an oil drain line. They do make life easier. Do the older boats have the T-handle plug under the engine? If not, please disregard the previous.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2009 at 6:07pm
Prior to reworking the Mustang I was able to get my arm under there with a large crescent wrench. I had planned on installing a drain hose and had actually bought one to do it. Upon futher review there was no way that it would fit.
Now, after putting the engine back in and aligning, I am completely unable to get a wrench down in there. Unfortunately, I believe it is slightly loose and drips a tad of oil. It is totally stupid that I did not check this prior to re-installing the motor.
I need to replace the front seal on the trans next winter so I will probably have to wait to do it until then.
In the meantime, I do have a drain kit for sale for a 289 Interceptor... $30 shipped.
Mike N

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2009 at 6:27pm
I use the box end of the appropriate sized wrench, it involves lying face down on the floor and getting really close with an engine I have just warmed up to get the oil flowing. Those old mustangs are really tight boats to hold a v8... I would vacuum, change, run vacuum and change...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2009 at 2:20am
Can't help with the oil problem...to messy for me to fool with...but sure glad to see you on here Jim.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2009 at 1:47pm
Sounds like a good excuse to purchase a set of Gear Wrenches, then change it over to the hose so you don't have to do it again. Of course you could always pull the motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2009 at 7:01pm
I guess I'm lucky.On the ole 66 Skylark with the Buick V-6 I can just about crawl under the motor. Well maybe not me: but I have a plug on my Oil Pan near the fuel cut-off.Pics enclosed, I take that plug out,vacuum with the 5-gal deal from Overton's and refill. I did put the Sierra Kit # 18-7891(1/2"x20 threads)on it, but it takes so long and doesn't get it all out.Trailer jack all the way down or hooked to the tow vehicle in the driveway at it's steepest and still is some left in the pan. I did have to get a reducer for mine. I think it was 1/2"x1/4"- male pipe to FIP Hex bushing---or maybe 1/2"x1/8".


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2009 at 8:31pm
Thanks for the replies. I found that I could just get a 3/8" breaker bar with a 7/8" 12 point socket on it by removing the trans fluid cooler and bracket. I broke it loose with about 10 degrees of movement. Not enough to reposition the breaker bar (sometimes called a drive bar) and move the drain plug any more. But, I could then get my 3/8" ratchet on it and move it enough so I could get the breaker bar back on it. I had to switch back and forth between the ratchet and the breaker bar.

I will not put the plug back in it. I see two different drain hoses on the internet. Has anyone had experience with any of them. I really need one that will work in a small space.

WakeSlayer I have no idea how you got a large crescent wrench under there.

WakeSlayer does your drain hose have the 90 Deg bend on the plug end or is it straight? Are you confident there is room for it to fit?

BTW, the oil looked like tar. Ugh

Thanks Jbear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2009 at 11:33pm
Give me your e-mail and I will send you what adapters and pieces I have left and you can see what works for you. You can get the ends you want really and make your own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2009 at 9:57am
Originally posted by Jim_In_Houston Jim_In_Houston wrote:



I see two different drain hoses on the internet. Has anyone had experience with any of them. I really need one that will work in a small space.

WakeSlayer does your drain hose have the 90 Deg bend on the plug end or is it straight? Are you confident there is room for it to fit.

Thanks Jbear.


What thread size do you need on the 90 to the pan drain?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2009 at 10:09am
The kit I got from skidim requires a 1" clearance. It's got a good sized brass fitting that eats up that 1".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2009 at 1:01pm
Mine is the kit from Skidim. It has the 90* on it.   For a 289

As far as the crescent wrench fitting, I was able to finagle (sp?) it in there and keep flipping it over to get another 1/8 inch. Took forever. once I put the motor back in and aligned, I can no longer get my arm under there. I may remove trans cooler and try it again, but I am skeptical.

Mike
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