drive shaft

How do you remove the drive shaft from a 1976 ski tique?

Mark,
Is the shaft bent? Just wondering why you need to pull it.

Just as Steve (62wood) mentioned, the tough part is getting the coupling half off the shaft. It's (should be) a inteference fit between the bore of the coupling and the OD of the shaft. The coupling bore should be around .0005 to .001 undersize. Installing the coupling requires it to be heated in a oven so it expands. Now back to getting it off!! The area is usually too tight to get any kind of a puller in there. One method that most will use is to find a deep socket just under the 1" shaft size. The coupling halves are pulled apart and the socket is placed between the prop shaft and the trans shaft. Then longer fine threaded rod is used in place of the original bolts used to hold the two halves together. As each nut is slowly and alternately tightened on the threaded rod, they will now pull the coupling halves together but because you have the socket against the prop shaft, it will be slowly pushed out the tail end of the coupling!

Sometimes I think it's easier to pull the engine so the prop shaft can be removed by pulling it forward!!!!

A word of caution - if your shaft comes out easy and has signs of fretting (black or rusty smut on the shaft) then your boat has been run with the engine and prop shaft out of alignment. This isn't good because it will cause trans damage.

Unfortunatley yes. A home dial indicator says a bend with loads of vibration. When splitting the coupler do you place a screw driver to start?

Thanks,

Mark

Sorry to be some what thick but could you post the drawings.

Thanks

Mark

Thank you so much.

I ordered a new one. I was concerned about heat straightening due too the liability of an easy break.

I am new to Correct Craft and I'm thrilled to find this site and the help. I've got two boys and we have been Wakeboardeding and love the way boat pulls.

Mark,
The coupler has a machined flange. Try tapping at various places around the perimeter with a sharp chisel at the joint while rotating it.

Your kids will be the envy of the neighborhood with the 'tique..

That's perfect. I thought that's what you meant in your write up. I'll try sperating the coupler with the chisle gently.

Thanks again.

im finding lately its cheaper to go with the double taper, called around for singles and actually the double was cheaper

Have you guys ever tried to cut stainless with a sawsall?????

grinding is the only way, but you have to be careful

8122pbrainard wrote: Even if he gets a fitted and faced single taper, the engine doesn't need to come out. I'd ask them to remove the coupling after the machine work and then use the heat in the oven trick.

Is that more theory than reality? If it is heated and possibly banged on a little, will it really go back exacty to where it was?

Whatever the answer, I didn't want to chance it.

Greg,
Yes it goes back on in the same spot because it's keyed. Yes heating in the oven works - If one of our more computer oriented than mechanical oriented members here can do it anyone can! You just like to pull your engine to clean the bilge!!!!

When I replaced my shaft a couple of years ago I went with the ARE double taper; I couldn't get the set bolts out of the old shaft so I cut it with a sawsall.

Welcome to the site Mark. Have a great time with those boys this summer!

Chuck

I took my shaft out when I repainted my boat last year. While I had it out I replaced the bushings in the strut. I used a three jaw puller (not sure what it was rated for, but if you use one get atleast a 12 ton). I used the oven method for trying to get it back on, still wasn't easy. I ended up having to use a 2 lb hammer tapping on the end of the shaft carefully to get it in all the way. Even being carefull, I messed up the thread on the end of the shaft. I had to grind it down a file it a little to get the nut on. I believe if you get the double taper, this process will be alot easier.

Mark,
Since you are going to have a machine shop press off the used coupling for you, I HIGHLY recommend they face the coupling for you. The shaft is chucked up in the lathe with the coupling pressed on it. Then a very light cut is taken off the coupling face. This insures the coupling isn't warped and runs absolutely true to the shaft.

Is the used shaft straight? The shop can set it up in V blocks and run the dial indicator over it.

Clean up the shaft and coupling bore to make sure there aren't any burrs. Since the shaft is used, it should already be dimpled (small shallow hole) at the set screws. Crank up the oven to max. Most will be 500 to 550. Let the coupling sit in it for about a hour. If you are by yourself, clamp off the shaft to the strut with some blocks of wood and C clamps making sure you have working room behind the trans. Have a hammer ready just in case you do need to do some tapping. It should slip right on if the fit is correct. (.0005 to .001" max interference)

Next step will be alignment! Have you do any checking to see if your strut is aligned to the hull/shaft log? Put the new/used shaft in (before putting on the coupling) and see how it turns.

The first times can be a real PITA! Next time it will be a breeze!!