replacing rubrail |
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Ryan S.
Groupie Joined: October-03-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Posted: April-13-2005 at 6:47pm |
Has anybody ever replaced the rubrail on their boat? Mine (1997) has some dings in it and, purely for cosmetic reasons, I'm considering replacing it if it can be done relatively cheaply and easily. Do I need to order from the local Nautique dealer? Any experience with this would be helpful. Thanks
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Ryan
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swamp demon
Groupie Joined: March-15-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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I've done a few but all on pre 85 cc its not a bad job. I did drill thru the rub rail with a 1/8 drill bit and into the fiberglass and the screw in. When you pull the center filler you/be able to unscrew the old onethe big thing is to keep it straight. Two people make it easier. Then use a rubber mallet to put filler back in helps to pull and strech the filler as you pound in. You should be able to handle this. GOOD LUCK
I purchased mine from midwest Correct craft in angola,Ind. Bruce does a great job in parts |
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nates78ski
Platinum Member Joined: January-24-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1041 |
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we just did ours on our '78, we got it from TACO, great product, easy to install with 2 people
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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I was looking through my Boaters World catalog and it appears that they carry many rub rails that look to be identical to the CC rails. There are four or five rails that look like my '93 SN and cost varies between $150-$200/50 foot of rail. This price includes the insert (but insert only available in black or white).
I also have to deal with a scratche rub rail (due to boat being wreaked). I was planning on sanding out the gouges and then polishing. Not sure if it will work, but worth a try. |
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tdkosta
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Sanding out rough spots and polishing does work. Also if you are lucky you can flip the insert over to expose the side that isn't worn out and just hammer that side in place.
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Ryan S.
Groupie Joined: October-03-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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Thanks for both of those ideas. Both are great ideas. What would you polish with?
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Ryan
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tdkosta
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Maguires rubber and vinyl cleaner, or something similar.
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workky
Senior Member Joined: June-26-2004 Location: Marietta,Ga Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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i take it you can just replace the rope in the rail?Part of the rope is missing on my 84,can you just yank it out and replace just the rope?How in the world do you get it back in?
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Yes, just the rope can be replaced. Just work it in by pushing, twisting, pulling, prying...whatever works best for you. The ends of the rope are under the the stainless cover at the stern. Start and end there (I put a temporary screw through the rope to hold it in place while starting.
Sorry, but I forget the proper rope size. Just take a piece with you to the store. Buy a UV stable, mildew, and rot resistant rope |
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workky
Senior Member Joined: June-26-2004 Location: Marietta,Ga Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Do you think you can beat it in with a rubber mallet or somehting.Man that thing is in there tight.
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nautique frk
Platinum Member Joined: February-16-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1784 |
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I have used a rubber mallet to work the rope back in . Also West Marine sells a full line of Taco rub rail products , Taco was the original supplier to Correct Craft .
Good luck ! Mike |
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Kevin's '79
Senior Member Joined: March-05-2004 Location: Florence, AL Status: Offline Points: 178 |
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I have owned several older Correct Crafts over the years and I have replaced the rope on all of them and some of them more than once. Bruce at Midwest Correct Craft told me a trick 15 years ago and it is still how I install the rope. I hope I can describe it here so that it can be understood. First you need to get a piece of metal electrical conduit approx. 18 in. long with an inside diameter big enough for the rope to go through. The next thing you need to do is cut off one end at a 45 degree angle. The final step in making the tool is to flatten the end with the 45 degree angle with a hammer. You want to flatten it enough to fit into the rub rail. Once this is done you feed the rope through the tool and screw one end of the rope in at the back of the boat. You then push the tool with the rope through it into the rub rail. If you use one hand to keep pressure on the base of the tool so that it stays in the rub rail and the other to stabilize the tool you then just pull the tool around the entire boat while it is in the rub rail. It will automatically feed the rope in. With practice you can install the entire rope in less than 15 minutes. I still have the tool I made 15 years ago and it works better than any other method I've seen. Hope this helps
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Bill336
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I've got to replace the rope in mine too. It seems like if you twist the line tight with one hand and hammer with the other, it should go in ok. It would also be easier to do on a hot day.
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Bill336
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Looks like we posted at the same time. I like the conduit idea, I'll be using that.
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Wow. That's great Kevin. Thanks for the info.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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workky
Senior Member Joined: June-26-2004 Location: Marietta,Ga Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Kevin,that sounds like an idea i will try.Ive talked with Bruce many times and he knows his stuff.Thanks
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