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Please Help!? motor stalls

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79AMSKIER View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-16-2005 at 10:41am
I have a 79' CC American Skier w/ 302 4v. Had the boat out this weekend for the first time this year. Ran great all day till it was time to head back, then the motor stalls. It would run about 200 yards to about a quarter mile at any speed then stall, but I could immediately restart it. It took about 30 restarts to get back to the ramp. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. We are going out for a three day weekend this week.
I DRIVE SHE TANS
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 10:46am
Did you fill the tank after winterization and add fuel stabilizer?
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 10:58am
It sounds like a fuel supply problem. When it stalls, the pressure left in the lines slowly fills your carburetor bowls, then when you start and run, you use the gas in the bowls faster than your pump can refill them.

If you haven't replaced the fuel filter in a while, replace it. If your fuel line from the tank to the filter is the old original, replace it - the inside could be collapsing.
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94 Sport Nautique
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Siveck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Siveck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 12:16pm
Maybe the little piece of junk resistor under the plate on the back of the motor is in need of replacement. It is under the plate that holds the starter relay and voltage regulator. The resistor protects the points in your ignition system. An old resistor will break down under heat over time and cause the boat to do exactly what you are describing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 12:35pm
My vote is a fuel delivery problem. Check your filters and if your carb has a filter screen at the fuel line inlet check that too. If the problem persists check your fuel pump with a fuel pump pressure gauge if you can get your hands on one. Autozone lends tools but I don't know if they lend gauges.

But then again, when a failing coil gets hot they start acting erratic.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Rob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 4:12pm
If it was fuel it would not start without cranking to get fuel back up in the carb. If it feels like someone just turned the key off its probably ignition.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 4:29pm
I would check out the ignition first, bad coil when it's hot, That's what I would guess is the problem. also check the ballast resistor, and the module if so equiped. Do you have the orgonal points style dist or has it been replaced or upgarded to electron cov? It's pretty obviousce to some that it isn't a fuel issue, if it was then you would not be able to restart it immendiately.
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2005 at 5:57pm
79N...:

Not so obvious, as his symptoms are smiliar to one my boat suffered when sucking air into the fuel line at a bad hose clamp. The fuel bowls would run dry and engine would die. It immediately restarted. However, it would run endlessly at low rpms...just nothing over 2000. A larger air leak or fuel restriction could result in worse drivability. Cut Jim some slack as his diagnosis is plausible in my book.

79A...:
My advice is to replace coil, ballast resister, condensor, fuel pump and fuel filter then give it a test run. All parts are cheap and you may never know the root cause, but at least you will be on the water again having fun with piece of mind that you have new and good components. If you want to go cheaper and the boat stalls at any load level, then change parts one at a time until symptom goes away. Jump across ballast resister to eliminate it. Pump fuel into a container to eliminate the fuel pump, filter, sucking air. Replace the coil and condensor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 1:42am
I agree with everyone, any of the above may apply. It would be nice to know if it dies when you are above idle, or does it idle OK and just die at higher rpm's. Siveck, the main purpose of the reistor with points is so the coil doesnt burn up. The resistor limits the current to the coil in case the key is on when the points are closed. A coil cannot tolerate a full 12+v applied to it continuosly. The resistor is bypasses when cranking on some engines to give a hotter spark when trying to start. The limiting of the current does, however, help make points last longer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79AMSKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 10:44am
Thank You so far for all the input. Here is a little more info. Last fall all fluids and filters where changed,new cap, rotor, plugs,wires and coil. The distributor is a prestolite with the prestolite electronic module and no ballast resistor per prestolite.
The motor would stall at any speed or rpm and was running at a cool 150 degrees. I also spoke with Vince at SKIDIM, very knowlagable individual, and after a little conversation I had mentioned that one of the things I had done this fall was to replace the coil with a MSD Blaster II he immediately said that was my problem. Apparantly Prestolite modules do not like high voltage coils. So needless to say I have one ordered along with a new module,may have been damaged, its 10 years old or just want a spare. I will have the boat back in the water this weekend to test and will post result so someone else wont make this mistake. Thank You again for your advice.
I DRIVE SHE TANS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 11:10am
Silly me, I thought I was diagnosing a donkey and the patient turned out to be a race horse.

My fuel problem diagnoses is based on the boat just coming out of storage. Electronic/electrical systems don't usually fail while while they are not in use. (Unless lightening strikes it.) But things can float around up in the fuel system. I guess a circuit could have been damp when first fired up for the season - but I doubt it. But then again I thought it was a donkey.

Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 4:16pm
MSD coil interesting

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