Another No Start Thread

Kind of stuck and need some direction…still not Firing.

Previous Post

Field Notes…

     I have tested my voltage and it is up to 11v at the ignition and 9v at the coil. I know that is a little low, but I was able to get a spark with the new points and condenser I put in. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and have good fuel flow to the carburetor. The carburetor was leaking and had to JB weld part of the secondary fuel bowl. It’s still leaking a little from a broken o-ring on the fuel line and I need to find a new one (any suggestions), but I feel I should at least be getting some response out of it.

     The engine still isn’t firing and I’m not sure what to do next.

o     My engine is a 1989 351 – PLD PR R18 – Left hand or standard rotation.
o     Prestolite E5JL Distributor – New autolite plugs.
o     Checked firing order – from serial number – 13726548

Thinking out loud…
o     Try to get more volts out of ignition wiring.
o     Replace spark plug wires as old ones are a little worn.
o     Firing order not starting at TDC.
o     Problem with my carburetor.
o     Looks like it is letting in fuel.
o     The electric choke seems to be working.
o     Problem with engine.

Back of mind…

I thought about brining it to a mechanic, but my goal was to get it fired up myself. I know it’s possible, maybe you could recommend some reading material or share some knowledge. If you have any questions, see my old thread or ask. I’ll be around.



Pictures

flipflop wrote: Kind of stuck and need some direction…still not turning over. Previous Post

Before we all go barking up the wrong tree, can you clarify? Your previous post said you were getting some spark, which would indicate that the boat is cranking (turning over) just fine, but is not firing.

The former would have us checking the battery and starting circuit, the latter would have us diagnosing the ignition system... big difference.

When you say 11V at the "ignition", where exactly are you measuring?

If your spark is weak, I might be inclined to "hot wire" from the breaker to the coil + while youre testing. This will take voltage drop issues (corroded connections, etc) as well as the ballast resistor out of the picture for the time being. If it runs well like this, you can go fix those issues. If not, at least theyre not compounding another problem.

First, move the the motor to TDC on the compression stroke. It helps to have a breaker bar with a 15/16" socket, but otherwise you can bump the starter. Put your finger over the #1 plug hole to determine which stroke youre on (compression stroke will push your finger off the hole).

untill you have a good battery in the boat and repair the wiring harness connector's terminal that's gone your not going fix a damn thing

It cant hurt to charge the battery, but I doubt its your issue if the engine is cranking reliably.

I think BHP is asking about the safety lanyard because theyre known to come unhooked or become intermittent, preventing an engine from starting. An '89 should not have the lanyard (at least it wouldnt have had one from the factory), and youve got spark- so I dont think thats an issue... but if you do have one, you may want to verify that its working properly.

If youve got spark and fuel, its more likely that youre simply out of time. I would get your firing order and timing straightened out first, then make sure youve got good, consistent spark.

Out of curiousity, did you replace the ignition switch as Pete suggested in your previous thread?

flipflop wrote: TRBenj - I will find TDC and adjust my wires accordingly. I've been reading more about timing and starting to grasp the concept. Behind Propeller - Thanks for the advice. I am trying not to hurt myself. Keeping all gas away from the engine. 79 - I've read a lot of your posts and hoping to sway you into helping me. The battery is new and reading 12v and has 650 cca. It may be a little weak from all my testing, I should get it charged, but do you think thats really it. If so, I'll go charge it.

Flip Flop-

Answer the question. Does your boat have an emergency lanyard on it?

If yes... It is the first thing to check.

If it was a safety lanyard problem, he wouldn't be getting any power the the ballast resistor and coil.

8122pbrainard wrote: If it was a safety lanyard problem, he wouldn't be getting any power the the ballast resistor and coil.

Pete-

Will an engine fire without power to the resistor and coil?

behindpropeller wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: If it was a safety lanyard problem, he wouldn't be getting any power the the ballast resistor and coil. Pete- Will an engine fire without power to the resistor and coil?

Tim,
Of course not! He however stated he's got power!

flipflop wrote: Engine is not firing. I am getting some spark, but the engine is turning over via starter. 12v at battery, 11v at ignition and ballast resistor, 9v at coil.

What did you end up doing with that VERY bad looking engine wiring harness plug/connector that was all burnt up and corroded?

8122pbrainard - It actually cleaned up pretty well. It doesn't look like I'm losing any volts there. Any change at the ignition switch is shown at the ballast resistor. I will take some pictures and look at it again tongiht. I just figured I was able to get a spark so I moved on.

It looks like I need to retrace my steps a little and pay attention to the details. I know its not going to be a a clear simple path to get the boat running, but I'm going to keep trying. I am trying to use this forum to keep me in line with where I need to be. Thanks.

79- Good point. I am going to go back and check my plugs for consistent reliable spark. My voltage is up a little from when I started. Should I consider replacing the coil?

flipflop wrote: 8122pbrainard - It actually cleaned up pretty well. It doesn't look like I'm losing any volts there. Any change at the ignition switch is shown at the ballast resistor. I will take some pictures and look at it again tongiht. I just figured I was able to get a spark so I moved on. It looks like I need to retrace my steps a little and pay attention to the details. I know its not going to be a a clear simple path to get the boat running, but I'm going to keep trying. I am trying to use this forum to keep me in line with where I need to be. Thanks. 79- Good point. I am going to go back and check my plugs for consistent reliable spark. My voltage is up a little from when I started. Should I consider replacing the coil?

replacing the coil isn't the issue the issue is you don't have enough voltage, this starts at the battery, then to the wires, the connection might be clean but the rest of the wire can be junk under the insulation where you can not see it, so if you not getting the same voltage reading within a .1 or so volts from the start of the wire to the end of the wire then the wire needs replaced, or the connection need cleaned depending how you are checking them, connected or disconnected.

9V to the coil (through the ballast resistor) should be plenty for the points. If you read closely, he's already cleaned the connections and has consistent voltage from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor. I am confused why the switch wasnt replaced since there was a voltage loss through it, though. I dont believe (once cleaned) there is anything wrong with his harness. On boats with voltmeters, I believe the alt feed (orange wire) pin is unpopulated in the connector and is tied to the hot feed (red wire) internally on the engine side of the harness.

Long story short, I would do just as I suggested in my first post in this thread. Bypass the resistor and then verify the timing.

I can read just fine, Chris- can you?

From the first post in this thread, after he cleaned his connections:

flipflop wrote: I have tested my voltage and it is up to 11v at the ignition and 9v at the coil.

Who is the one causing the tail chasing?

TRBenj wrote: I can read just fine, Chris- can you? From the first post in this thread, after he cleaned his connections: flipflop wrote: I have tested my voltage and it is up to 11v at the ignition and 9v at the coil. Who is the one causing the tail chasing?

YOU NEED TO LOOK A LITTLE CLOSER SLICK.


so bypass the ballast add more juice to the coil and it'll fire if that's the issue, doubt that it will thought.