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    Posted: September-23-2010 at 4:41pm
I just rebuilt a 92 SN, 351. ProTec, carberated. I bought it with blown motor. (Spun Bearings, thrown rod and TWO cracked heads)
Motor done, and cranked right up. Popping thru carb, "coil Pack" was oozing white fluid, determined bad and conversion kit installed. Ran AWESOME, But, tough to idle, and breaker (50 amp) keeps popping. Always at idle never while underway. (This also occurred before coil conversion.) Once I get it up and running it is smooth and very fast. (45/47 mph @ 90% throttle) It has an Edelbrock carb, that previous owner claims is only 2 years old. It was sitting for 10 months, and I have cleaned the carb externally and fuel as best as I can without removal of tank. Fuel seems to be good when I change the filter. And if it means anything the tach does not work, previous owner said it had. My question is, are the two problems related? Or seperate Carb and electrical? Do the breakers go "bad"? I have about 11 hours on the rebuilt motor.
I will thank you all in advance for any light you can shed on this matter.
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 5:03pm
Jerry,
I can probably help out with the electrical but the carb issue I'll let others comment. BTW you may get some comments on the carb brand!

Yes breakers will go bad especiaaly if they have been tripped a lot. Before you get another one, see if you can borrow (if you don't have one) a clamp on current probe and VOM (volt Ohm meter). Make sure it's rated to read DC. Then, use it to check what current is actually going through the breaker.

How's the battery condition? A weak or bad battery will suck the amps! What's on the engine for a alternator?


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 6:01pm
Thank you for your input!
The battery is brand new. I am not sure of the alternater type, but the gauge shows a strong 13+ volts.
What would i look for with the Volt meter, and where? And when? (Before or after a "trip") I do have one, does read DC, but I am not very good with it!
I went through a divorce and was forced to sell my 95 SN, GT 40. Within a tight budget, and by the grace of God, I got this 92 with a blown engine. She is sleek and beautiful, and my three daughters are thrilled to be back out on the water! Carb brand is what came with it, so it will work or get replaced. I do have access to a Holley 4160, but not a "Marine" carb. Workable? My current direction is to rebuild the Edelbrock for the $35 investment and see where that gets me. Thoughts?

Thanks again.
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 6:09pm
Jerry,
I mentioned the clamp on probe because the amps are higher that what most VOM's can handle. At best, you can only send 20 amps directly through them.

You what to get a reading before the breaker trips. After, you'll get zero since there isn't any current flow. Hopefully you'll get a reading below 50 proving it's just a bad breaker. You want the reading on the "load" side of the breaker. If it's not a breaker problem, then you'll have to start hunting down what's pulling all the current. We can get into that later. If you can't find a clamp on, you could just get a new main breaker but I always push testing first before just swapping out parts.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 7:23pm
Here's a basic typical wiring diagram courtesy of Tim (TRBeng). It may help.



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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 11:06pm
Thanks again!! I have checked all wiring prior to "conversion" of coil/distributer, and all seems correct.
My VOM is a Sperry DM-350A, and I am having troubles understanding the amp reading set up??? They are not the most user friendly unit! I will enlist the help of a buddy that has electrical knowledge to inspect, but I may just replace the unit in frustration. I would like to know if I do have an improper load on.
Do you think the tach not working may be involved? I have NOT inspected behind the dash yet?
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2010 at 3:58pm
Paul Thanks for the help. It seems when I did the Protec coil conversion I may not have secured all wires well enough. Amps read fine, and I bought a new breaker too, but I have not installed it and it seems fine.
The carb I had rebuilt and is now also doing great and idles fine. Still seems to be using more gas then I would have experienced with the 95 GT 40.
Today i had a different problem. I put it in the water at the ramp, started it up, and it warmed up quickly. I was concerned and watched the temp gauge rise, revved the engine a bit and thought I smelled rubber burning? Looked at belt, seemed fine, looked at pump, seemed fine. I did NOT look at raw water filter. (A later thought!) I shut it down (rose to 200-205) and water rose up from the exhaust and gurggled into the "log". Water in cylinders! Checked oil dipstick, no water. Pulled plugs (back home now!) ran water hose and turned engine. Cleared water from cylinders, replaced and started right up. Ran at 140-150 for a couple of minutes. Shut down and drained oil. Some water but minimal in oil. Flushed and changed filter. Seems fine in the drive. Should I change the impeller? Could something have been in the pickup? Any thoughts?
Are there valves to prevent a backflow of water to engine?

Thanks!!
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2010 at 5:41pm
Definitely check the RWP. I had a similar issue when my impeller disintegrated a few years ago. My motor filled with water too.

How exactly that happened, I have no clue, but a new impeller and an oil change fixed it.
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GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2010 at 6:22pm
Jerry,
It's best not to look but feel hoses and manifolds. You will be able to tell very easily if you have water flowing.

Was the boat deep enough in the water? Have you run it in the lake or on a bucket (no hose from the house) since the rebuild? IE: do you know the raw water pump worked and you didn't have any hose air leaks.

You mention "log". What style of manifolds are on this engine? The PCM high rise? There are no valves to prevent a back flow from lake water. Can you explain this statement more: "water rose up from the exhaust and gurggled into the "log". Water getting all the way up through their risers would be very unusual.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2010 at 9:22pm
Paul,

Thanks again!

To answer your questions;

Yes it was deep enough in water. It has been on the lake prior too, I have about 17 hours on rebuild, maybe 14-15 under way. There have been some instances where the temp rose, but higher rpms seemed to lower. No leaks in hoses, no water (excessive) in bilge.
It has the "hi rise PCM" manifolds. The "log" I refer to is the tubular fiberglass crossover that is mounted to the rear over my most recent coil and breaker issue? I have to laugh!

Well. I changed the impeller and while the blades were still there, barely! This I should have changed, or inspected, I accepted the previous owners statement as true, when he said it had been replaced recently. It was BAD.
In retrospect, perhaps I had the boat, (still on trailer) angled in too deep? And water flushed up and over? Could the bad impeller caused suction? Heat of the engine?

Either way, THANK GOD, I did not seize a brand new engine!! I changed the oil and it seems fine.
I have NOT put it in the lake as it is late and so am I to an important dinner. It is all back together, new impeller, belts tight, idleing right and soundin fantastic! Temp good. (on the hose)Tomorrow I will test it, and I will take your advice and feel hoses, and I should see water and movement in the glass filter? How do I "feel" the manifold? Heat or movement?


Let me see, thats 26 beers I owe you now!!
How do I post a picture? It was taking long.
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2010 at 9:52pm
Jerry,
When I asked about leaks in the hoses, I meant air leaks. On the suction side of the pump, air will get sucked in and you will have cooling problems.

You feel for heat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2010 at 1:38pm
Paul,

All is good! The RWP is flowing and cooling well. I checked all hoses for leaks and flow. Stayed around 150 -160 degres. Seems to have been the problem. Thanks. I still do not understand how the water rose to enter the engine? The exhaust flapper was sucked in when I pulled it out of water at that instance.
This has been challenging and frustrating for me and the girls, but I think that I have it straight now, and am thankful for the lessons, and the help offered here. Just may have enough time for some wakeboarding!
Unfortunatly my "star" wakeboarder broke her ankle on the trampoline, but offers the opportunity for her two sisters to surpass her!
Js
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