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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 2:14pm
its like boats, they always trade them in for a bigger one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 4:13pm
Well, I had a great talk with John from the Machine Shop here in Des Moines. He's much more knowledgable with marine application that I expected.

I asked his opinion about Stroking the motor and 331 vs 347. He said after seeing the condition of the crank, rods and my Cam he doesn't see a reason to justify stroking the motor unless I want to get a lot more power out of the motor.

Obviously, it's my choice and it would give me more power but at the same time I don't think at this point I NEED the extra power. Bored 30 over, heads, intake and a cam will be plenty of upgrade for me and won't break the bank. A $400-600 difference between stroking and stock makes me lean towards staying with the stock bottom end and using new forged pistons.

If I can get somewhere between the 270 and 280 mark I'll be a happy guy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 5:14pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

he doesn't see a reason to justify stroking the motor unless I want to get a lot more power out of the motor.

Duh!

I wouldnt necessarily advocate stroking an engine just for more power (heck Ive never actually done it myself), but the fact that youre already tearing into the bottom end and cleaning it up is reason enough. Save for the RR wick lines, theres nothing special about your stock crank and rods, so I wouldnt lose any sleep over not using "parts that are still good".

275hp in a Tique will be a fun ride for sure- but if afterwards you want "just a little more" then youre sort of stuck. Save for spending $1500 on aftermarket aluminum heads or a little bigger cam (or redoing the bottom end for $1500+), there isnt a whole lot you can easily do. It will never get cheaper or easier to go stroker than it is right now while its already apart. We're talking cheap horsepower here... show me another way to spend $400-600 and get 40+hp!

Of course its your boat and either way you go, Im sure you'll be happy with the end result... but I dont have to tell you what Id do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 7:42pm
Tim you are 100% correct, the idea of another 40hp is very appealing. I just have a few concerns with going to a 347. One is durability of the block. I don't want to get into something I cannot maintain or worry I am going to break. Most of this stuff is way over my head anyway, I just know enough to be a little dangerous.

A more mild stroke at 331 is an option, but like John said, if your going to pay the $ to stroke the motor you might as well go up to a 347.

Doing just the top end seems like it would be more manageable but if I am wrong please correct me. Like you said earlier, I need to do some more homework and I don't want to get into something I don't fully understand.


The other is a question I guess I have to ask myself, what is the purpose of the boat and the rebuild?
-I am going to be using it as a travel boat of sorts, going to reunions and taking it on weekend trips around Iowa. It doesn't have to be a screamer but it would be fun to get up into the 55 MPH range.

The 4-600 bucks could be used somewhere else like upholstery or in the bank for other projects some day.

I'm not sure which way I'll go yet, I may need more persuading.     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 8:01pm
Chris, I did a little reading today. Plenty of respectable engine builders seem to think that a properly built 347 will be just as reliable as a 331. Obviously piston speeds and side loading are slightly higher with the extra stroke though... I think thats why Billy chose to go 331. I would probably do the same, personally. Both configurations have been around for a long time and have a proven history. It will all come down to the quality of the rebuilder who assembles it. 302's can blow up too!

You can save $400 by skipping the cam and intake now if money is a major concern. All it would cost you to do those later is a handful of gaskets (plus the cost of the parts themselves). Once your block is done, you cant build a stroker without starting from scratch!

It sounds like your intended use makes the Tique more of a toy- which I can relate to. If youre shooting for 55mph, then a stroker should get you there. Tune it properly and you may be running with some of the fastest boats here!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2011 at 10:27pm
I still would only go with a 331 versus a 347 due to the piston speed and all the other points we mentioned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 10:19am
more torque, bigger prop, lower engine speed....remember, guys on here spent the 3g for homey chromey exhausts to pick up 1.5 horsies....400.00 bucks for 40 hp??????....that gives you a basis to build upon later as budget allows....once you build a stock 302.....thats it, you gotta live with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 2:20pm
Yep yep yep, a million ways to skin the cat.

If I was looking at a bottom end rebuild and therefore needed to pop for new bearings, crank service, connecting rod service, machinging, new pistons and rings.. then yes I would say to myself.. for a few more bucks I could also get a new 331 cast crank and a decent set of rods and end up not only with a few more cubes but also a new crank and a set of rods instead of reconditioned crank and rods. A pretty good payback on the investment.

Nothing wrong with a well built 347.. but if I was building a 347 I start to think about a forged crank (+300 over cast), balancing (+200), and a stud girdle (+100 if it fits without new oil pickup and drain pan mods). Well now I am starting to talk about real money, wait if I am getting it balanced shouldnt I think about the condition of the flywheel and harmonic dampner before I put more money into them.. and next thing you know you are broke.. or maybe you do it cheap and you are broken?

I say the cheapest 331 you can get built, gt40p heads (be careful here the spring and valve selection could do you in), a used performer rpm intake, and don't let those guys at cam research give you no tractor puller cam.. the boat dont weigh nothin and has a v8.. you will get out fo the water just fine.

Or the cheapest 331 you can get built and the top end you have now.. cause as the man said you can always do the top end stuff later without even pulling the engine out of the boat. It might make sense in this case because you need new heads to just go right to the gt40ps even if you didnt want the cam and intake bill at this point. That way you can plan the right pistons to match the heads with the right compression ratio from the begining.

While we are here..great things are possible even with stock bottom ends with bigger badder heads, intakes, exhausts, and rpms. But that is where the drivability issues come into play. They can be taken out of play with fancier fuel and ignition systems, but when you start talking like that you have left the realm of bang for the buck in my skiboat and gotten into the realm of engine hobbyist.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 2:57pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Yep yep yep, a million ways to skin the cat.


Very true Joe!

Well, since the bearings, crank and rods are all in great shape I think I am going to stay with the stock bottom end and simply go 30 over with new pistons, gt-40p heads, intake and a cam.

I love the idea of going to a stroker and adding another 40 hp, but I don't think it is necessary at this point. 260-280 hp will be plenty in my little Ski Tique and will be a great tow boat provided I get the right cam.

I'm sure Tim will be telling me "I told ya so!" someday, but I've still got a little blue boat in the shop with no foam and I hear it can be a fast hull....might just have to make a sleeper skier some day!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 3:36pm
This is a cool discussion thanks guys!

Chris forgive me if I missed it, but what ended up being the cause of the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 4:11pm
Both heads were broken, probably got hot at some point and were suspected to be leaking water into one of the cylinders. The piston was scoring the cylinder so we're going to got 30 over which should clean everything up pretty well.

Then new pistons, heads, intake and cam at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 4:21pm
What is your ballpark estimate for the rebuild if you don't mind me asking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Well, since the bearings, crank and rods are all in great shape I think I am going to stay with the stock bottom

Chris, Im afraid I dont understand exactly what your machine shop is charging you for if theyre not going to refurb the bottom end... install new pistons and assemble the top end? If so, youre getting hosed! I'd be making sure the bottom end was fresh if I were in there that far, unless youre very budget sensitive. If there is a $400 difference for all new parts (stroker at that!) then thats a no-brainer.

As far as speed potential goes, that Ski Tique hull should be faster than the gen 1 Mustang/Skier, FYI!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:39pm
Tim, what should I expect as far as a price range for what they are doing. I thought it was pretty fair considering they have time in taking the motor down, cleaning everything up, will be boring the block 30 over, magnifluxed and putting everything back together. The estimated labor cost was going to be about 700 bucks to do the entire thing.

Only reason I am price sensitive to the 400 is that I literally just put in an offer on a house not more than 10 min ago! Not sure what will come out of that but it may effect my thought process on this project. Good news is, it's the one with the big shop I told you about!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:44pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

What is your ballpark estimate for the rebuild if you don't mind me asking?


Keegan, the quote I had from the shop to put it back together using stock parts was 1,000 bucks. With gt-40's cam and intake I'll be expecting to be around 1500-1700.

At this point, I have a lot of options and I just need to weigh whats the best one for me at this point. I haven't gotten too caught up into speed and more HP (yet) so I am leaning towards a more mild upgrade on this boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kytom2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:15pm

What new parts are part of this (new rod and main brgs)? What machine work is a part of this (Crank polished or turned and polished)? It's apart is it going to get hot tanked? When its bored is it going to get power honed for the correct fits?

I guess what I'm saying is I'd be asking for an itemized list of of parts and services I'm getting for my thousand bucks.

Whatever you decide to do, get the most you can for your money, and get it done right. If not it will cost you more in the long run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:34pm
Chris, congrats on the house (and shop!).

Tom makes a good point- you want to fully understand exactly what youre getting. What services will be included, what parts he's using. Then you can figure out where your money is best spent.    

If I were in your shoes, I would prioritize my wants/needs as follows:

1. Fix things that are broken. Heads, pistons.

2. Freshen the bottom end while youre in there. New bearings and seals at a minimum.

3. High performance top end (cam/intake).

Things that are being replaced or refurbed, you need to look at the extra cost associated with replacing with better parts. Look at the heads, crank, rods.

I said it before and Ill say it again, if that $400 is critical, put it into the bottom end now because you cant do it later. You'll still get a good power boost with 331ci even if youre running the stock cam and intake for a year or 2. Do the heads now since your old ones are junk. If and when you finally decide to upgrade the other pieces, you wont have to undo any of the other work you did on the bottom end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:42pm
Tom, as stated above, the rods and bearings are in great shape, this motor only has 400 hours. They've already had everything in the hot tank and cleaned up. Yes, the cylinders will be honed as well as bored. Not sure about the crank, I'll have to check with John on that one.

I'm going to go ahead and call on the Gt-40p's today so we can hopefully see them next week? Intake and cam will follow shortly after.

One thing we haven't touched on yet is ignition. I know some like to stay with points but I am open to suggestions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kytom2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:49pm
If the block been hot tanked then its completly apart. The crank, rod bearings and main bearings have been removed.

New bearings will be required during reassembly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Chris, congrats on the house (and shop!).


Thanks Tim, we'll see what happens. Could be a great situation if it ends up happening, if not I'm in no hurry to take on any debt!

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Tom makes a good point- you want to fully understand exactly what youre getting. What services will be included, what parts he's using. Then you can figure out where your money is best spent.


351w with upgraded top end = 320-330hp
331-347 stroker with upgraded top end = 300-330hp
302 with upgraded top end = 260-280hp
302 with head upgrade only = 240-250hp
stock 302 = 220hp    


If you all think that heads and a 331 are my best option with the stock cam and intake then I am open to that option although I would really like to have this thing done and not have to tear into it again. (I have a Skier that is dying for my attention!) If my math is correct, I would be around 270hp with the heads and a stroker kit, basically the same as a stock bottom end and an upgraded top end?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:24pm
While it would be far from optimized without the cam, I would guess you'd be pretty comparable in hp with the bigger cubes and P heads vs. a H/C/I upgrade. While your hp peak would be a bit lower (4000-4500 rpm instead of 5000), you'd have a bit more torque with the extra cubes.   If you wanted to, you could run a steeper prop and cut RPM's at all speeds.

To add a cam and intake later would be minimally invasive- no need to pull the motor. Youre talking an easy 1-2 day project, tops.

Once you catch the speed bug (and you will) then youve got an easy way to add power down the road. If somehow you lose interest (ha!), you still have a great performing boat for the same amount of money- with a fresh bottom end that should last a long time. The extra torque will be very nice and being able to underturn (mph vs. rpm) at all speeds is pretty darn luxurious- and probably more efficient.

If money is tight, slap that old distributor back on for now- that can be changed later too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:34pm
That sounds very appealing to me as well Tim. Since it will be used as a workhorse when it's at our home lake towing kids and visitors around....and efficiency is always a plus. I'd really love to just dive in and do the whole thing right now, but the responsible side of me is saying to take it one step at a time.

If I can get this thing dialed in like it was before I think I will be in great shape. It fired up faster than any boat i'd been in and was smooth as silk, just a little noisy!

With these upgrades would I still be looking at an ACME 1210?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:


With these upgrades would I still be looking at an ACME 1210?

Actually no, I dont think so. You'll want something steeper with the extra hp. Even my sisters 302 with a hotter top end needed more prop. With extra cubes, you'll definitely need to go bigger. The new 12.5x13 Acme would be interesting to try- the only person I know who has run one is Reid (on his 347 Mustang). That would knock the revs down the most, Im guessing. A 12x13 OJ is probably best if you stay at 302ci. If you go to 331ci, both the 12x14 and 12x15 OJ's should be considered along with the 12.5x13 Acme. Do you have a 12x14 Federal now? That would have been the original prop... if so, you may want to baseline your performance before buying something new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 2:17pm
Tim, I'm going to try and get the prop pulled and check everything out next week. Was busy finishing up a trailer for the Chris Craft this week so I can drag it up to Wisconsin today.

I talked to Reid last night about his Mustang and 347. His opinion was to go with a stroker, heads and a cam to get the most bang for my buck. In his opinion, stroking with out a cam wouldn't utilize the $ spent in the stroker kit as much. He also mentioned there are other options for good cam's at a cheaper rate, I'm going to do some looking outside of Cam Research just to be sure. If anyone has any good leads I'd appreciate the heads up or a better description of what I should look for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 2:32pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

In his opinion, stroking with out a cam wouldn't utilize the $ spent in the stroker kit as much.

Chris, that is absolutely 100% correct. With 331ci and P heads and the stock cam and intake, you'd be way underoptimized. Probably ~270hp @ 4000-4200 RPM. Add a cam and intake and youre looking at 300-320hp@5000 RPM.

The only reason to not get a cam and intake now is cost. If youre looking to save $400, skip the cam and intake now since they can be done later relatively easily. Dont trim the stroker from the budget, as that cant be re-done later.

If you can stretch the budget a little now to do both, you'll get the best results, obviously.

Reid may have a line on other good RH cam vendors. He may even have a few Speedpro cams on the shelf that would be a big improvement over stock. That being said, for a custom grind, Cam Research is your best option, IMHO. Dont let them talk you into being too conservative, but their grinds seem to be very good. Theyre only marginally more expensive ($50) than an off the shelf grind from Comp- which has been shown to leave a good amount of hp on the table.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 7:29pm
Chris, when's your birthday? Oops, saw where we just missed it in Dec, but what the heck, if you stick with the stroker route and I'll give you one of those Speedpro-type cams, in exchange for all the beer I can drink at our next outing we both attend. And I saw a brand new intake on ebay for $109.00, IN IOWA, of all places. 331 vs. 347, I'll stay out of that one for now.       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 8:24pm
Reid, You are the man! Let me know where you spotted the intake, I'll do some searching as well. I'll be sure to stock up before GL11, just let me know your favorite. Looks like we are going to be able to attend this year as long as nothing pops up! Or better yet, I'll keep you posted on my tentative trip to Raleigh to see my buddy who just moved out there!

In unfortunate news, It's not looking like we got the house with the shop. This is a blessing in disguise as my grandfather's health is quickly declining and they're giving him hours/days. I was out visiting him this morning and he was the witty/cleaver man I've known for so long. We're all hoping for the best and planning for the worst. As of now, It looks as if I'll be taking care of the farm and horses when the time comes. Grandma will be living with mom and dad until we decide what will happen to the farm. Everything happens for a reason, just another example how the big guy upstairs works things out.

So hopefully I'll get to put a little more time, energy and money into the motor now that I am pretty confident my wallet isn't going to be tied up over the next few months.   

I did get to stop by the machine shop over lunch and look at the broken heads and the newly bored block. Everything looks great...well, except the old heads. I talked with John and he's going to wait until we see the heads to order the stroker kit and then we'll go from there! I would have snapped some pictures but my camera was dead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 8:31pm
This must be the intake?



Thoughts? It's in Ames, Iowa. I've got a buddy up there who can snag it for me an bring it back over the weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 10:11pm
Chris sorry to hear about you grandfather. It is good that you have such a close family and you can be there for each other.

Looks like the motor is going to be a good one!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 10:05am
if you look at it this way, "347 is only 4 cu in's away from a 351"
"the things you own will start to own you"
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